Brownells Oxpho-Blue Liquid Gun Blue, Cold Bluing Solution, Gunsmithing Tools Maintenance Cleaning Supplies, Professional Grade, 4 Fl oz. (118.2 mL)

This stuff is amazing. I blued several of my tools completely and did some touch ups. It works in 10-15 seconds (under one minute). The trick is to to clean the surface very well to remove any grease with acetone or alcohol. Also, I got a better result by using a wire brush vs recommended #0 steel wool after bluing. The black coating is basically also a type of rust and it is porous and to prevent regular rusting you need to apply any oil or wax as a rust inhibitors after bluing which will be absorbed and retained by the black coating creating a barrier for regular rust.

Did its job well for me. When done right will give a proper cold blue finish. Remember to always pour the needed amount out into a separate container when using it in order to not contaminate the main bottle. The lowest price for quality cold blue when I bought it. No complaints.

I have done 3 22cal rifles so far ranging in age from 85 years to 54 years old. All have came out excellent, the coverage was a dark uniform color and was easy to apply. I did slightly heat the barrel with heat gun and burnished with 0000 steel wool between coats.

Gives steel a good protective shield but comes out blotchy if you use it on large areas too quickly. The key to applying blue effectively is prep, cleaning, and good surface conditioning. The best way to apply this would be a sand blasted surface. If you only want to use this on small area it should be fine. Don’t use on large area unless you’re taking your time and have done a lot of sanding/conditioning to the metal surface.

Followed the instructions. Didn't have any problems. Always coat it with oil after you've got the finish you desire. For me, it only took one dip. Oh - and never put used any fluid back in the bottle!

This a great product and I find this works better than the other cold blues I have tried. Of course there is always some steel that other products work a bit better on, but this does give a good color match on old rust blued items.

Like everyone says, clean your metal, and then clean it some more. When you've finished that, clean it one more time. I sanded my test pieces with 80, 120, 220, and 400 grit, then gave them a couple wipes with acetone until my paper towel came away clean. The finished pieces had no uneven coating. Also, use small amounts on a clean applicator. I had acceptable results with a small amount in a plastic cup applied with a paintbrush, but doing that will contaminate the solution. Dropping pieces into the solution made for a super dark finish, but also left residue in the solution.... so don't do that (at least not on the first coat). It's easy to fix mistakes and blemishes with some fine sandpaper and acetone. Sand off the blue, clean the work of fingerprints and sanding dust, then reapply. To my eyes I couldn't see my blue repair area. Seems to work very well with welds. I did some simple tests with mild steel and ER70S-6 wire shielded with C25 gas. It is possible to weld through the blue layer, though for serious applications you should clean the blue off the metal. Both the base metal and the weld bead blued nicely after cooling and cleaning.

I found Brownell's Oxpho-Blue Professional Grade Cold Blue an excellent product. As noted in other reviews some surface prep of the intended surface to be blued may be required and heating the surface to receive the Oxpho-Blue seems to improve results. Please consider the following cautions before use: be mindful of having proper ventilation in your work area (this product does produce some fumes), use protective gloves (nitrile works), wear a particulate-blocking mask if sanding metal is required, beware of splatters and drippage on clothing and shoes (I learned the hard way), avoid getting the Oxpho-Blue down inside of the barrel, and take care not to allow the liquid drip or run onto unintended surfaces or parts. For this project I applied Oxpho-Blue to all the metal surfaces of a disassembled, late 1950's Mossberg 20 gauge (barrel, bolt, receiver, etc.). That shotgun had very light rusting of the surfaces with very, very minor surface pitting (which required a little light sanding). Patience and persistence in the prep and application pays off in the end. I cleaned and de-oiled all surfaces, used progressive grits of sandpaper (100-1500) and #0000 steel wool to bring the surfaces down to bare metal, and then heated the metal surfaces before application of the Oxpho-Blue. I heated the surfaces simply using my wife's hair dryer. I did try cold application on the bolt (no heat applied) and saw acceptable results. Still, heated surfaces seemed to produce bluing a bit better. I applied a total of about 8 coats using cotton balls dipped into the solution with a gloved hand. While Oxpho-Blue initially dries with a bit of a brown-tinged residue layer, using #0000 steel wool between each coat to lightly buff the surfaces removes the residue and allows the blue to come through. After I completed the bluing process I applied a light coating of gun oil to all surfaces. This was my second project using this product. I learned from both of these projects that taking my time paid off. I highly recommend Bownell's Oxpho-Blue Professional. It is superb for touch-up and I've had great success (so far) on entire rebluing projects. Best of luck on your projects!

Good product

Este producto es para pavonar. Es muy bueno en la mayoria de los aceros comerciales. Para obtener un buen acabado hay que dar varias manos: entre 8 y 10.

Worked like a charm, had an 870 magnum express receiver that needed some touchups, this covered everything up to near factory look!

Worked great, very simple to use for touch ups. Great price

Bon travail