ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with 3.5'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.53in(L) x 2.56in(W) x 5.9in(H) Printing Size Black Version

Excellent print quality.. much better than expected from such a small printer and in this price range.. its like a miracle for beginners and too easy to operate. Chitubox (slicer) is something that i can't miss to mention.. it makes all your work so easy just like a magic wand from some fairy tale.. love this product

There is a hole happening in all the models.

Pls say some software to work ..

The short version of this is YES, I'd buy another one and I love the Elegoo Mars!!! I will first start by saying that I was hesitant to buy a resin printer because of the "mess", smell and other down sides I had previously heard about. I did my research to find the best fit for my needs and budget. The Elegoo Mars IS THE BEST! I'm blown away by the print detail and how easy it is to use. There's a slight learning curve and several things I don't like about resin printing compared to FDM printing but it's still worth the extra work and slight mess. I have several CR-10's and I will still use those for large prints but for small detailed prints, this is the machine to use! First, the smell isn't nearly as bad as people said it was. It's probably best to have it in a shop or garage and not in your house because it does give off a slight resin odor especially the first time you use it but it's not that bad at all. I work around it all evening and it is never overwhelming or nauseating. After about 5 minutes in my shop I don't even notice it anymore. It does not smell any more than my FDM printers. Second, it isn't that messy as I previously read in other reviews. You need a silicone nonstick mat to put down to avoid drips and spills but it's well worth the 20 bucks to get one. Third, Did I mention yet the print detail is AMAZING! Most FDM printers print at a minimum of .1 and the Mars prints at a .05 layer height which means NO PRINT LINES to clean up! Last, you do need to buy a UV light to cure your parts. I did a quick test and left several parts away from the sun to see how long the full cure time would be and they are still tacky to the touch after 3 days. Unfortunately we have had cloudy days since I bought the printer and I can't rely on the sun to cure my parts right now. THE DOWNSIDES: These aren't a deal breaker for me but the print bed size is small but I knew that going in. That being said, it's still a good value for the bed size. If I wanted a bigger bed I'd have to go to a 1,700 dollar machine. It is a little more of a mess than an FDM printer. You do have to pour resin in a basin, wipe up the drip from the bottle that seems to happen every time and wipe off the bottle every time you fill the tray. I have only cleaned the tray once in the 3 days of constant printing because I had a mis-print that caused the resin to cure to the bottom of the resin tray. It was my design error and no fault of the printer. I scratched up the film on the bottom of the tray so I'm sure I'll have to replace that after numerous prints but I was expecting that anyway from previous research. The film typically is under 20 dollars to replace and you get several replacement pieces and the labor to do it seems pretty easy. Cleaning the resin tank is simple and straight forward. 99% alcohol works great and you have to use alcohol to rinse off your printed parts but here's how I look at it.. I sometimes spend hours sanding prints off my CR-10 (that I love) and now I'm spending minutes cleaning up small resin drips and occasionally cleaning parts. It's a good trade off on time. I HIGHLY recommend this printer and do plan to buy an even bigger one eventually. This thing is amazing! I'm very pleased with Elegoo.

I ordered the Elegoo Mars around the first of the year. My experience has been positive overall. The support is very good, and I found that using the facebook Elegoo Mars group is very helpful as well. Some pros and cons: Pros: -Very easy to set-up and use (software is relatively simple to use). Far fewer settings to adjust vs FDM printers (only 5 or 6 settings really make a difference in the end product) -Less finicky than FDM printers (not as susceptible to print fails from factors like first layer adhesion/settings). It's very forgiving. -Incredible detail and resolution -Good support -Resin is ideal for painting -Relatively low maintenance Cons: -A bit messy -A bit smelly (not as bad as people mention IMO). -A bit slow. Not a true con, because DLP laser resin printers are expensive, commercial grade printers for higher volume application. -Elegoo resin sticks to everything and transfers easily. 99% isopropyl/ethyl are the only readily available solvents to remove resin from surfaces. (Tip: after printing, rinse with 99% isopropyl or ethyl alcohol, then water, then alcohol and water again.) -Quality control: I had to return first 2 units. First one had an issue where the rising and lowering metal plate would not detach from FEP during first several layers. SOLUTION: add a piece of painters tape to corner of LCD screen, under FEP film, but do not cover active pixel area! (Issue is a vacuum is created that cannot detach).....Second printer had to be returned because units are susceptible to a part knocking loose during shipment, which will cause the UV lamp to turn off randomly. I found tapping the side of the unit helps temporarily, but it is shorting out. Support has a solution to fix it yourself. Just wrap it in an insulator that doesn't conduct electricity (I deferred to the amazon exchange process). Some tips: The printer has a relatively easy learning curve. Default settings in Chitubox 1.3 are ok, but not ideal. For Elegoo transparent resin, I use a minimum of 8 seconds per layer at 0.05mm height. For opaque resins, I use 11-12 seconds per layer at 0.05mm. As a default, I use 8 bottom layers at 30 seconds each. I don't change settings for different layer heights. For most models, especially ones with large internal volume, be sure to add a drain hole in the software or manually with a drill bit after printing. If you drill too small a hole, another hole to let air may be necessary. -Always check the resin reservoir after printing and especially after fails for resin that is stuck to the TPE film and loose in the leftover resin. They include filters for this. -When picking models and preparing a print, you should use any empty area of the print bed for additional models. The only thing affecting print speed is the height of your models. You can print as many models simultaneously as you can fit on the bed without affecting print speed as long as you don't add a taller model. (This is not the case with FDM printers). -Get a nail curing lamp or put your models in the sun to cure for 30 min-1 hour for increased strength. Too long will change the color of some resins (like elegoo transparent). -Try the transparent resin at least once. Transparent resin prints the fastest and you can also calibrate and level your bed without having to empty the resin and clean it (you can see through to the LCD screen to align the ballast without removing the resin). --Another reason, is that transparent resin allows you to see the internal structure of your model. You can see the infill grid and see if any resin is trapped. I didn't understand the importance of a drain hole in some models until I used transparent resin and saw liquid resin moving freely in a finished model. Despite needing to make an exchange, my overall experience has been very positive. For $500, I think it is a great deal relative to other resin printers with similar abilities and performance. I would definitely make the purchase again.

I've been wanting to get into this for awhile. The theory behind it is simple. Build plate moves upward while the LCD display at the bottom shines ultraviolet light (405nm) which polymerizes the bottom layer of resin in the reservoir. Wait 6 or so seconds, raise by 0.5mm and repeat. It seemed so simple that I went back and forth between simply building my own out of cell phone remnants and an Arduino. In the end I opted to buy this, telling myself that the worst case scenario was that I'd salvage it for parts that I'd need anyway for rolling my own. I'm honestly not sure what I was expecting. Possibly a simple aluminum shell with off-the-shelf components and a USB port. Let's be honest here, if you're looking at this you're probably a maker and are likely way more interested in the output than the aesthetics of the machine itself. But the thing is very professional looking. If you saw it in a university lab or a prototyping facility I doubt you'd bat an eye. First thing. The package arrived on time and in immaculate condition. I have no idea who actually is responsible for packing those things, but the styrofoam was so tight around the components that I had to use a tiny punch to break the vacuum that had formed. So, good job. The lone exception was a little plastic beaker that broke after it fell a few feet in a cat-related mishap. It was going to be recycled anyway so I really didn't care. If you're into miniature style games, this is something that you could use to hit the ground running. There's a ton of models on Thingiverse that should print just fine. They even pre-load a number on the USB drive that they ship. Since this is my first foray into this kind of printing, I wanted to write down a few notes. If you're a newcomer to this you may find them useful too. 1) The slicing software (takes your 3D model and outputs it in a way that the printer can interpret) is free, but not open source. I usually try to stick with FOSS, but Chitubox runs flawlessly on Linux (Wayland even!) which is really enough to make me happy at this point. If the authors decide to start charging, I have zero doubt that the open source community will fill the void. 2) The printing process is slower than that of a traditional FDM (Prusa-type) 3D printer. The 50mm tall "hello, world" rook model took about 4 hours to print at a layer height of 0.05mm. Lowering that to a coarser 0.075mm brings that down to about 2 hours. The printer, in theory, can go as fine as 0.01mm, but I haven't gone that far, yet. 3) The resin is nasty stuff. The actual Elegoo branded resin seems to be quite a bit less noxious than the other stuff that I've picked up. But no matter what, you don't want to get any of it on you. I had considered a bigger model but in hindsight am glad I went with this one. A bigger reservoir means dealing with larger volumes of this stuff. 4) The build plate and the reservoir are good and solid. You can feel the heft. Getting Started What's in the box isn't enough to get you started. You'll also need to pick up a bottle of resin. In theory that's that you need...But responsible making generally entails keeping all of your eyes, fingers, and skin intact at the end of the day. Here's my list of the most important safety equipment to have with this. Gloves - They send a few with the device. They're quite small. Even if you have hands tiny enough to fit into them, you'll still want a bix box. Seriously. Don't try and save on gloves. The resin is as bad as honey when it comes to sticking to any surface. Goggles - They do something! Dust mask - They send a few N95 masks. Sadly, at the time of writing, masks are being hoarded by panic-stricken people who believe that a dust mask will keep a virus out of their systems. Perishables: Resin - Obviously FEP film - This forms the bottom of the reservoir and is solidly clamped in place. It needs to be as clear as possible in order for the shapes to be nice and crisp. It feels like the one that comes with the printer will last for awhile, but had I known that I may need these in the future, I probably would have picked some up with the initial order. Solvent - Used to wash non-polymerized resin from a model after the printing is complete. Also used as a general cleaner for the build plate and reservoir. Isopropyl alcohol is what's recommended. But since that's being hoarded by the same folks hoarding dust masks you may need to find alternatives. High proof Everclear, Xylene and mineral spirits come to mind. I've found that using a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner with distilled water works really well. But I've only tried it a few times. Your results may vary. I'd also recommend buying a box or two of eyeglass/lens cleaners. Good for a very soft, streakless spot clean. Funnels - Useful for reclaiming unused resin from the reservoir. The conical filters that they send DO NOT fit properly into the resin bottles. Don't try to wing it. Learn from my mistakes. An oil funnel with a cotton ball stuffed in as a filter seems to work fine. Ultraviolet light bulb - Good for curing in a hurry. In a pinch, the sun will also work. Shop towels - Sopping up resin Extra Credit Crap that I already had lying around that turned out to be really useful. * A garage * Small fume hood * Multiple borosilicate/Pyrex casserole dishes for multi-stage washing * Mason jars for reclaiming solvent * Magnetic stir plate * Aforementioned ultrasonic jewelry cleaner * Stainless steel mesh for straining * Flush clippers for snipping model supports That's it for now. I'll try and update as I try more prints and discover more things that I wish I had known.

I bought this printer to replace my Longer Orange 30 (which i had for two weeks and it died on me) and to keep me printing while i waited for my Elegoo Saturn... Figured I’d get something with more fans and “hype” The hype was very very accurate. I’ve had maybe 2 failed prints with this machine, both my fault, and quality could not be better for the price... Everything on it works amazing and is very user friendly. The machine is open source so you can print upgrades/mods for it on the machine itself (i suggest printing a shorter bed knob, it gives you an extra 20mm in the Z direction) I did my standard benchy (as seen in photo) but i printed it at 20% so it fits on a quarter perfectly... as you can see the quality is phenomenal!!! The machine is fairly quiet, prints quick enough, and has a good size build volume (pretty standard for the price range) Slicing models is quick and easy in ChiTuBox and the stock profile works with almost any resin. (I suggest upping exposure to 90s bottom and 10s top layers makes post-processing easier) I printed about 20 pens on it (also seen in photo) and the threads printed beautifully at 0.1mm layer heights with only one pen failing due to bad supports (my fault) I have 2L of resin in 2weeks on this machine so i have it running non-stop, just so you know how reliable my experience is... Long story short: If you want to get into resin printing and want something easy and reliable BUY THIS NOW If you like making your machines your own with mods and upgrades, BUY THIS NOW If you think you want this machine vs. the Mars pro I’ll tell you this: Other than Siraya Tech Blu and Siraya Tech Tenacious, i can not smell the resin while printing unless i stick my face by the exhaust vent. The print chamber and the electronics case is really well insulated from each other... If you’re still worried about the smell - For $20 you can buy Elegoo’s battery carbon filters that (Elegoo support themselves told me) are better than anything the Mars Pro has. What about the 1second quicker layer times in the Mars pro? Pretty useless in my opinion because 90% of print time is from z-moves not from exposure (it takes 15seconds for it to do the z-move and 7-8seconds of exposure time) Save yourself $50-60 and buy the standard Mars, buy the Elegoo Carbon filters if you’re worried about smell, and use the rest to buy extra resin. All in all: 10/10 will recommend 10/10 ease of use 10/10 reliability 10/10 will buy again

This was my first experience with a resin based printer. I have worked with hobby FDM printers and commercial printers of many types. Additionally, I have attended many additive manufacturing trade shows. With all of my experience and exposure to what is out there, I must say that this printer is outstanding for the money and the print results rival some of the more expensive systems. PRINT RESULTS The items that I have printed, lived up to the hype and I am very pleased. My first two prints consisted of a "Tesla Valve" and the "Elegoo sample rook file." Both prints were near perfect. The rook file was flawless, but my "Tesla Valve" had some deformation where I had too many supports. The supports interfered with some of the finer details. I am sure that I could make adjustments to overcome this issue. The third print I made failed as the surface area of the part was much greater than the supports could handle resulting in the part separating at the support points and leaving the part on the FEP film with the raft and supports on the build plate. In hindsight I should have printed this part without support directly on the build plate. BEGINNERS BEWARE If you are a beginner in 3D printing, especially resin printing, you should do your homework about 3D printing to manage your expectations. 3D printing is NOT at the level of pressing print and getting a repeatable result. There is still a element of art to the process. All of the 3D printing that I have done comes with trial and error, learning about the materials and the tools and their interactions. I have found what seems to work on one systems does not always directly translate to the same result on anther system, so temper your expectations until your familiarity with the process improves. Moreover, environmental considerations are a must. Depending on the printer, materials and process your success will sometimes be affected by things like temperature and humidity, so know and control your environment. SAFETY Adhere to all safety recommendations, these systems are not toys for children and lack of understanding could put your health at risk. From my understanding and reviewing some of the MSDS/SDS on some of the resins there are serious health consequences for mishandling the resins. That is not to say that FDM printers are without there considerations as well. Do your homework and know the safety concerns before jumping in. PRACTICALITY Consider what you are buying a 3D printer. Each technology out there offers a solution that is better suited for your goals. Resin printers offer high detail, small prints, but the materials are limited and not necessarily the strongest functional parts. FDM printers cannot compete with the details of a resin print, but larger and sometimes stronger parts can be made. There are other great printers out there, but they are not in this price point, so I will not talk to their benefits here. CONCLUSION Resin printers are great for fine details in small part and models such as figurines, small parts for model builders and for casting jewelry. There are greater safety considerations, but with proper protective equipment and care the results may be worth the effort. The printer is just one component of the process and before buying do your homework and buy all the support environment items before printing. There are a great deal of YouTube videos out there on resin printing and many of the printer models being sold; spend some time watching others to learn more about it. One suggesting that I agree with is, have a dedicated place to do your printing with your resin printer; this will help with staying safe. Finally, while I have not reviewed any of the other low end resin printers, I can say that I am extremely please with the Elegoo Mars printer.