Dual Battery Isolator Kit 12V - 140 Amp Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) for Dual Battery Setup - Automatic Disconnect Switch for Car, Truck, RV, UTV, ATV, Marine

Why did you pick this product vs others?:Easy to install for my boat. I wanted something to isolate my starting battery from my battery that mainly runs my radio, so we can start the boat after floating and listening to the radio. I originally had an A/B/Both manual switch, that was hard to access. Now I can have enough left in one battery to get it started and not worry about flipping a switch or remembering to parallel them to charge them back up. The only thing about the install I didn’t like was having to trim out the side of the switch for the cables to route through. My boat alternator is rated for 65 amps, so this should handle that load without a problem.

It works perfect I just put it on a big truck to have a backup battery for a power inverter that is installed for power tools and it works perfectly easy to install the quality looks pretty good includes everything you need and your battery terminals you may have to fill the hole biggers on the tips but other than that everything fits good

Thus far:Install was easy enough, especially if you have experience with audio equipment.Please ignore my lazy cable management (i haven't completed the build)Product cuts in when alternator is on and cuts out at 12.8v like it says (tested with multimeter).If you do what i did you will need 1x more 6 (couldn't find 7) gauge battery terminal connectors.You will also need more heat shrink tube, just buy a length of it at 6 gauge.Tools you will need:Rachet set (varied sizes for bolts/nuts)Razor blade (stripping 7 gauge wire (or if you're fancy you can buy a fancy smancy stripper))Some kind of Wire cutter, i used a simple wire cutter.Crimp tool (i used wire cutter ^)Heat source for heat shrink (i used propane torch)Multi meter (for testing grounds and voltages)Anti Seize for connections (not necessary but very good investment)12v Battery (preferably deep cycle with 100Ah)12v Battery clamps, (see in pic 1/3 in the center of battery) was like $6 at O'Rielly's Auto.Flat head for prying those snap cap thingys.Make/Model:2014 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTBattery: SuperStart 27 ($92 O'Reilly's)My Install:I took the 20ft cable and split it, running one for positive and one for negative toconnect to the starter battery.I took the included 2ft Ground battery and grounded to the engine block (see image 2)Cut more of a hole than prescribed in the directions for the Isolator housing for the entry/exit cable holes(^You'll see why)I took a cylinder sanding wheel with a dremel tool to sand paint away from part of the cab near theisolator for the isolator's 16-ish gauge ground and used a machine bolt for the fasten.Used battery clamp/hook system to fasten battery to tray (forget about the chevy clamp, this is better)Will update every few months

Plenty of wire although the ground wire could be longer. The positive is only 7 gauge wire and should be thicker but they give you 20 feet of it. The product works as it should and installing it was easy. The isolator cover has 4 knockouts in the cover to alow wire to go through the sides however none of them line up so you have to make your own holes. There is no manual control wire to close the circuit for jumping one battery off the other like some other brands. I ended up removing the isolator and installing a DC-DC charger from REDARC because I have a smart alternator system and this system won't fully charge my AGM auxiliary battery to full. If you have a shunt on you negative start battery post or somewhere on your negative cable then you have a smart alternator and this product will not work for you to it's full potential. It's fine for older vehicles. A smart alternator charges your start battery to full then drops off to 12.6 to 12.8 volts until the battery requires more charge. I suppose this is for full economy. When this happens no extra charge is available to your auxiliary battery and in the case of an AGM battery the voltage of 14.6 that is required is never reached. Some lithium batteries require 15 volts or more to fully charge. A DC-DC charger is customized to your auxiliary battery's needs. It monitors and charges it fully and indepently of your start battery regardless of the alternator output. I found this out the hard way so don't make my mistake by buying a simple isolator kit and realizing it won't do what you want it to. This is old technology for older cars.

My GMC Sierra, or GM's in general, are apparently known for having power, or lack there of, issues and so when I added an electric fisher plow, my lights would dim and occasionally my radio would clear out, so I installed this unit. I don't yet know how it'll work with the plow but can say my voltage gage now runs steady so I'm hoping this solves my issue. I will say it was an easy install.