BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V2.0 Control Board 32Bit with TMC2209 UART Driver New Upgrade 3D Printer Parts Motherboard for Ender 3 V2, Ender3 Pro, Ender-3 Series 3D Printer

This mainboard was by far the best upgrade to my Ender 3 Pro (MicroSwiss all-metal hotend is a close second). The TMC 2209 drivers make the steppers so quiet that I sometimes forget it is actually doing something (although there is the fan noise). The added space on the EEPROM was perfect for fitting all the features I wanted into my Marlin build (Linear Advance, Auto-Bed leveling, and Junction Deviation in particular). Not entirely sure why BIGTREETECH only lists 256KB...it is actually 512KB which allows me to compile 'bloaty' stuff (PIDBEDTEMP, M503, boot images, extra menu items for LCD, etc.) into the firmware and not have to worry about saving every last little byte. Installation wasn't difficult, but it was frustrating as Creality hot-glued everything to their stock board. Took a long time to get that stuff off without damaging anything. Came pre-loaded with a recent version of Marlin and was easy to flash to a custom build by simply dropping a 'firmeware.bin' file onto SD card and turning the printer on. A nice feature is that after it updates the firmware, it renames the file to 'firmware.cur' so it does not try to reflash every time you turn the printer on (the bootloader I flashed to my stock board didn't do this). BLTouch & Auto-Bed Leveling I did have some trouble configuring the firmware for ABL using the BLTouch at first. Most guides out there assume you are plugging into the Z-Stop on the board, but this board has the 5-pin header for BLTouch (which was convenient to build a 5-pin DuPont connector right to the board instead of separate 3-pin and 2-pin connectors). In your configuration.h, make sure that #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN is commented out and that you are using #define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING. One other thing I had to change was #define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN PC14. PC14 is the Z-endstop pin from the 5-pin header. The pin set to this by default will not work. In configuration_adv.h, PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD is a really handy menu option to help set the z-probe offset value. There are other minor things you have to change to get ABL to work, but all the guides out there cover that in great detail. The Instruction Manual does include a link to pre-compiled Marlin binaries for this board. I believe from that page the 'firmware-bltouch.bin' would have worked for me using the 5-pin Z-Probe header, however the webpage is unclear and I wanted more control over what features were in my firmware. Would be nice if they supplied the configuration.h and configuration_adv.h files for these builds so that users know what's in them. Extra Stuff I bought the kit with the Mainboard, BLTouch and no touchscreen display. Be aware that the wires for the BLTouch probe are nowhere near long enough to reach your mainboard. You WILL have to do custom wiring or need to buy a BLTouch extension cable (1-meter should be long enough). This kit does NOT come with a bracket for the BLTouch either. I printed one out from Thingiverse and it works great, but if you prefer a metal bracket, you'll have to buy it separate from this. The kit does have appropriate screws/washers/springs to install the BLTouch. It is pretty clear in the description and pictures that it would not come with the bracket or long-enough cabling, however some folks might not notice or realize they need these things and be very disappointed. Overall a great board and an awesome upgrade that would really only be better if the documentation was more specific instead of a few pictures and incoherent sentences. In particular, configuring Marlin for BLTouch using this board's 5-pin header (notably the PC14 pin). Oddly, the BIGTREETECH configuration files specifically for this board on GitHub for Marlin do NOT have the pin defined as PC14. Despite a few challenges, this is still 5-stars all around because this upgrade is not designed for people who like for things to 'just work' or simple plug n' play. Go buy a more expensive printer if that is what you want.

Bought this and used it in a scratch build printer. Documentation for the V2 control board is there, but somewhat lacking. Being a popular board, there is enough info on the net to fill in the blanks. The board is well built and worked right out of the box. For firmware I used Cheetah 5.0 from Kay3D.com Their firmware is a version of Marlin that takes you through about 20 steps to configure a printer. All these steps are placed at the front of the Config files and notated so well it is almost impossible to screw up. If the notation in the config file is not enough, their online guide and video make it even easier. Many common printers are listed in the firmware with all their features, and simply selecting one, takes care of most your firmware choices. You will not find an easier firmware for setting up a BL Touch or any sensor. It is painless and almost guaranteed to work. All options are in the firmware for custom builds also. If you are not a firmware ace, be sure to try this firmware and make your life easy! Back to the board. The TMC2209 stepper drivers keep the motors silent. Sensorless homing works awesome. Do note that sensorless homing does NOT work on a Z axis with a lead screw. Settings are almost impossible to obtain. If you can get a setting that works, it will only be temporary. Digging into this issue I found right in Marlin where it says it will not work with a Z axis lead screw. Just something to be aware of. I had to add a limit switch on the Z axis. The TFT35 touch screen is plug and play. Documentation on connecting the serial cable to the control board is lacking, but again, the internet is your friend. The touch screen operates in either traditional Marlin mode or touch screen mode, and you can switch between the two. You will want to switch between the two for initial setup. Some settings are only available in the Marlin screen and some only in the touch screen. This is my only gripe, but in reality, once everything is setup it is no big deal. One really nice thing is the ability to change stepper drive current right from the touch screen. Gone are the days of a small screwdriver and multimeter to set each chip individually. I did have to turn up the current on my Z axis chip due to a subpar leadscrew. It's not perfect, but for the price it is really hard to complain about anything. The few minor annoyances are easily offset by the price. With this combination being so popular, there is plenty of info on the internet if you run into any issues.

The BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V2.0 has been one of the best upgrades I’ve added to my printer. The board runs very quiet because of the TMC2209 drivers, and the stepper noise basically disappears. My prints look cleaner and more consistent, especially on curves and fine details. Installing it was easy since it lines up with the stock Ender 3 board. All the connectors fit, and the firmware support is good. It handles things like a CR Touch, linear advance, and other features without any trouble. The 32-bit processor makes the whole printer feel smoother. For the price, it delivers a big improvement in print quality and noise reduction. If someone is looking for a reliable upgrade, the SKR Mini E3 V2.0 is definitely worth it.

Ombouw Ender3

It seems I was either sent someone else's return, or the 'out of the box' experience here is just awful. The 'BL Touch' of theirs has no mounting hardware, no instructions, screws all loose in the box. The main-board is just in a brown cardboard box, was in an anti-static bag, no instructions, no anything. Just the board. I followed multiple guides (including their own Github info) and the device cant seem to be flashed. So its stuck with firmware that wont recognize the existing BLtouch I have etc. The whole exercise has just wasted weeks of time (delivery and return to the states), cant say i'd recommend this to anyone.

This is a perfect drop-in replacement for my Ender 5. I watched a couple of videos on Youtube but it is just as simple as plugging all the cables in the same place as the original board (apart from the fans which get swapped). I pulled down the latest Marlin firmware and used the Ender 5 configuration files, then applied the changes from the BigTreeTech GitHub. The screen plugs in simply and everything worked perfectly. I can't believe how quiet this has made it.

I used this to replace the dead 8-bit board of my old Prusa clone (HicTop 12) Note: You need to really know what you are doing, and have to be comfortable to crimp and solder your own cables if not using this for an Ender! Was overall very easy for me to install in my Prusa clone. The new drivers are amazing! Compared to the super old drivers from the old 8 Bit board these are virtually noiseless. I can actually sit in the same room and work when the printer is printing. Overall very positively surprised that the swap out went so smoothly. I cannot say anything about the MOSFET quality as I am using two separate big ones for bed and hot-end use. So no experiences using the on-board ones. Tip: Use separate big MOSFETs, they come cheap (2 pack for way below $30) and usually ready to use, with cable clamps etc., they reduce any heating issues, reduce fire issues and take any heat/power strain off the board. Bought mine on Amazon years ago, never regretted it. Pros: 1. Very compact design, in fact it is truly "mini" 2. Excellent drivers, make a noisy printer virtually silent, cooler included 3. Marlin 2.0 shines on this board 4. Works exceptionally well with my Orion Piezo auto leveller, I now get the bed perfectly levelled with 9-point in less than a minute. Every print's first layer is now pure art 5. Board build quality and online documentation ranges from very good to absolutely sufficient for such a competitively priced board. 6. Noticeably better performance with this 32-bit board. 7. Super easy to flash the firmware updates 8. Lots of people own this and there is quite a lot to google out there if you ever get stuck. Did not have to use their customer service once. Cons: 1. You should really be comfortable with configuring Marlin, soldering, cable crimping, etc. if you do not do a direct Ender board update but use this for a different printer. Because you will have to make at least some new cables and connectors. 2. Patience is necessary, as a move to a new board is never trivial, lots of fun (?) testing is necessary 3. Had to buy the Color TFT E3 V 2.0 from BT as well, as my old screen would just not work with the board, but, to be honest, totally worth the investment, as the TFT not only is a touch-screen but a very powerful mini Octoprint as well, among other things it has a rather useable terminal built-in. No more running back and forth between the computer with Octoprint and the printer.

teknik desteğin olduğunu söylemiştiniz ender 3 v2 ve btt skr mini e3 v2 için yazılım desteği istiyorum onun haricinde ürün süper