Dorman 917-033 Ignition Knock (Detonation) Sensor Connector for Select Models

Excellent quality would definitely recommend this item and seller.

Rewired both sensor ends into one sensor, and relocated to ONE knock sensor on the front passenger side of the engine, Easy fix for that very common problem on these 5.3 vortect engines.

Hoy 15/04/25 se instaló. A mi criterio se ve mejor que un OEM pero el tiempo lo dirá. Es la segunda vez que los cambio ahora opté por usar este arnés por su buena calificación. Actualizaré mi opinión en un futuro. Se instaló en una GMC Sierra 2004 4×4. Saludos gente.

If you are performing the knock sensor job then a new harness is a necessity. This is the exact reason why you are performing the job in the first place. The old one shrinks with the heat and allows water to enter the knock sensor cavity. This in turn corrodes the knock sensor and damages it. The connectors on the old one are also prone to breaking upon removal since they turn brittle with age. This harness arrived well packaged in a box with the harness bagged inside. The new boots had a nice tight fit when replacing the old one. All the connectors snapped in snugly without a problem. Upon starting my 5.3 silverado the harness performed its job as intended and did not cause any problems. It is an exact replica of the original one so you should have no problems with fitment. I opted to seal the new boots entirely with RTV even though the service bulletin only calls to create a dam in the front half of the boot. Some things to note if you are performing the knock sensor job on a GM: Make sure you have an open weekend to perform this job, It will take upwards of 6-8 hours. As noted below, since the manifold will be off, now will be an excellent time to replace optional parts. You might also want to do additional maintenance such as cleaning the IAC, MAF and throttle body. Parts you will need: 2 Knock sensors (usually only the rear gets damaged but since this is a large job you might as well swap them both) 1 Knock sensor harness (The old one will be useless. The boot wont seal tight and the connectors will be brittle and likely break) 1 Intake manifold gasket (This is a given. You do not want to do this and have a vacuum leak after putting it all back together) 1 Throttle body to intake manifold gasket (You will problably unmount the throttle body for easier removal and cleaning) 1 RTV tube (High temp is preferred. This is used to create a dam and keep water from entering the knock sensor and corroding it) Miscellaneous Optional: 1 Bottle of Throttle Body Cleaner (While the whole manifold is off you may take this time to clean the throttle body thoroughly. 1 bottle of MAF cleaner (To clean the Mass Air Flow sensor and Idle Air Control Valve) Some Shop Towels: (You will be doing alot of cleaning of parts caked with grease/dirt/grime) Shop Vac: (No matter how careful you are chances are leaves or debris will fall into the cavities of the valves/knock sensor while removing the manifold. A shop vac makes quick haste of cleaning all this debris) Other parts to consider replacing while you have the manifold off: Valve cover gaskets w/grommets (This is a perfect time to replace the valve cover gaskets if you notice any small oil leaks) Heater Hose Quick Connectors: (These things are also notorious for breaking in alot of GM trucks near the firewall. If you have never replaced them, now would be a good time to replace them since you will have easy access to them) Note: I did not include any part #'s as they will vary per vehicle application.

Worked perfectly for the newer style knock sensors I had to put in my 98 corvette