LightingWill LED T8 Light Tube 2FT, Daylight White 5000K, Dual-End Powered Ballast Bypass, 1000Lumens 10W (24W Equivalent Fluorescent Replacement), Clear Cover, AC85-265V Lighting Tube Fixture, 4 Pack

Just what I needed

I had thought they all died, but turns out it was the balastes from the old tubes. Removed them and all is well with it

Bought Feb 27th. Died April 11th....Also was having a burning plastic smell i couldn't figure out where it was coming from...until I changed out the lights again. Beware using.See pic. Top light is the weak burning out one. The bottom one is new after swapping out the completely dead one.Update: 5/13.Added two new pics of the side melting on one. Glad we were home and the house didn't catch fire. Avoid!

We love these! They perform as advertised but please ready my ENTIRE review.We purchased the warm color and, after about 20 minutes up and down the ladder removing our ballast and rewiring per the instructions, were rewarded with a reborn, instant-on fixture with exceptionally diffused and even light. Our kitchen has taken on a new and improved look and we're now trying to "re-home" our collection of 48" T8 fluorescent tubes. We are very happy with our purchase and the results.Now for some very important information: When I purchased these there was a warning from Amazon that they are "frequently returned." The video review that is posted as part of the listing is the reason for the frequent returns. If you're replacing fluorescent tubes and your installation takes "30 seconds" like in the video, you have installed these incorrectly and will get proper operation for just a few minutes and then they will dim or flicker or go off. Why? The ballast and starter in the fixture must be bypassed. In other words, there is some simple, minor wiring adjustments that must be made for these to work properly. These are wired directly from the AC coming into the fixture with the common connected to all wires at one end of the fixture and the neutral connected to all the wires at the opposite end. I am confident that the actual customer rating of these would be 4.7 or higher were it not for those reviewing the product after improperly installing the tubes without reading the listing or the directions and without doing the ballast bypass.

I have an older house with lots of florescent tube lighting fixtures. Some are recessed into ceilings and not easily replaced. Of course the ballasts are slowly failing on all of them. Have to flip the switch several times to get them to come on, flicker on and off randomly. These ballast bypass led tubes are a very quick and easy solution. Don't be turned off by the minimal amount of wiring required. The concept is super easy, there are wires (typically black and white) coming out of the wall that go into the ballast. There are wires coming out of the ballast that go to each end of the fixture where the tube locks in (can be any color really). End goal is to have all the wires from one end of the fixture connected to the black wire coming out of the wall and all the wires from the other end of the fixture connected to the white. Cut, strip insulation, twist and apply write nuts appropriately to achieve this. When you're done the ballast itself shouldn't be wired to anything. The light these put out is nice, diffuses evenly and is accurately described as warm white. I will say the construction is a bit iffy. The frosted plastic diffuser cover seems to be glued to the body and it's attached very unevenly. If you run your hand down the length you'll feel that its not really centered on the tube but there's no functional downside to this that I've found. Have installed 2 two ft tubes and 2 four ft tubes from this brand. All seem to be working well.

We have an old four-lamp fluorescent fixture in our kitchen. One of the ballasts was bad. Some time ago, we replaced the fluorescent bulbs with LED bulbs that work with the ballasts. Since one of the ballasts was bad, only two of the lamps went on. We lived with that for some time. Then, something happened and all four lamps lit at very low brightness. At that point I decided it was time to do a rewire and make a permanent fix.These bulbs are designed to work with the fluorescent fixture after the ballasts have been bypassed. Some people might think that this is difficult to do. It's not. First, be aware that there are two kinds of LED bulbs that fit into these fluorescent fixtures. The first kind has the positive on one end of the fixture and the common wire on the other side. The second kind is wired so that one pin on each end is for the positive and the other pin is for common.These lamps have the positive on one end and the common on the other. By far, that's the easiest way to wire. All you have to do is turn off the power, open the fixture, and cut all the wires going to the ballasts. We cut them very close to the actual ballasts to give us the most wire to work with. Then simply separate out the wires so that all the wires going to one side of the fixture are separated from the wires going to the other side. There should be no wires going between the two ends of the fixture. Once you do that, simply strip all the wires on each side twist them together and connect them to either the positive or common wires from the power. That's it.This took us all of 10 minutes. The result is for very bright lamps working in that fixture. More important to me, the color of the light is perfect. This is a nice, warm white, the same temperature as incandescent bulbs. I hate the daylight colored bulbs in my house.I strongly recommend using these bulbs to replace and improve old fixtures.

When its tubes wore out, I converted my old (40 watt) fluorescent fixture with two of these. Now I have more light while using only half as much electricity, and two spares too.It was necessary to rewire my old fixture, bypassing and removing the fluorescent ballast. Unless you have good electrical skills, get an electrician to do this for you.