Spray Max 2K Clearcoat

This clear high-gloss spray paint is fantastic. It goes on smooth and even, with no drips or cloudiness, and the shine is super clean and professional looking. What really impressed me is how hard it dries — the marine-grade finish feels tough, durable, and built to last. It sealed and protected perfectly while giving a beautiful glass-like gloss. Definitely a top choice if you want a strong, long-lasting clear coat.

I had no business pulling this off. Zero experience, no bodywork knowledge, just a car that needed fixing and way too much time spent researching. And somehow, this clear coat made my work look factory fresh. The Gloss & Depth, Absolutely Unreal I thought the paint I used looked good, but this took it to another level. The depth, the shine, no orange peel, no weird haze. It’s straight-up OEM-level clarity, and I haven’t even wet sanded or polished it yet. That alone should tell you how high quality this stuff is. Durability, It’s a Two-Part for a Reason Since it’s 2K (meaning it has a separate hardener inside), the durability is on another level compared to 1K clear coats. This isn’t your average off-the-shelf spray, it chemically cures into a professional-grade finish. If you want longevity, this is it. Application, Professional Stuff, But You Can Do It I won’t lie, this isn’t beginner-proof. It’s pro-grade, and you need to apply it properly. But if I can do it with zero experience, so can you. Just make sure you prep everything right and find the right products to pair with it. (I reviewed everything I used, so check my profile if you’re fixing a similar issue.) Spray Pattern, Not Your Average Can This isn’t some junky rattle can with a weak, spotty mist. The spray pattern is perfectly even, almost like a spray gun. But test it first! Spraying on cardboard or paper helps you get a feel for it. Work in light coats, keep it moving, and don’t let it drip. Dry Time, Faster Than 1K, But Not Instant It dries faster than a standard 1K clear coat, but it still gives you enough time to work with it. Be patient, and don’t rush coats. Price & Value, Expensive, But It’s THE Industry Standard Yeah, it’s pricey. And worse, you can’t buy it in stores. But there’s a reason pros use it, it’s the best you can get in a can. Whether that’s worth it for you depends on your project, but I wish they made smaller cans for smaller jobs because once you activate it, you’re on a 48-hour timer before it dies. Application Tips (Read This Before Spraying!) • Get a spray can trigger handle, it gives you way more control. (It just clamps on top and turns it into a mini spray gun.) • Test the spray first, don’t just go straight to your car. • Work in light, even coats, slow and steady wins the race. • Use it all within 48 hours, once activated, it’s done. Final Thoughts If you’re on the fence, just go for it. It’s not cheap, and it’s not dummy-proof, but the results? Insane. The fact that I got a glossy, smooth, no-orange-peel factory look on my first attempt tells you everything you need to know. If you take your time and do it right, this stuff will give you a finish that looks straight out of a professional paint booth. Would I buy it again? Absolutely. Hopefully, I won’t have to.

I hope some other newbie like me will learn from my mistakes. But first: Pros: If you do it right, it comes out great and is easy Nice glossy sheen, no polishing or compounding needed Cons: Directions on can might not apply to your conditions (explained below) Learning curve involved When can gets low (but still feels like it has product) it might spit dry-spray First, the directions on the can say it is ideal to spray around 68d F, with 50% or less humidity. It then states to stay about 10" back and go slow. But it doesn't say if you are NOT spraying in 68d this doesn't apply, and you might need to get close and go fast, if it's warmer. My garage was 80d and "staying 10" back and going slow" was the exact WRONG thing to do. It resulted in "dry-spray" which means the paint starts to atomize and doesn't collect into a solid sheet on the panel, but dries in individual droplets. The result is extreme orange peel and a matte finish, instead of a glossy finish. 9hrs later I wet-sanded the clear flat, which caused some burn-through into the color paint, which then needed touching up. When I cleared the panel again, was sure to do it early in the morning when it was 69F in the garage... Well at that temp the paint stays fluid longer, so it went on like nice solid sheet, but ran and sagged after a few seconds, as now I was too close or went TOO slow for the temperature I was spraying in! ... 9hrs later wet-sanded the runs and sags until the panel was flat again. And finally I had it figured out.... cleared it in the afternoon when it was hot, but got close - about 4" - and moved fast. And THAT came out perfect. Matched the factory finish without any messing afterward. So how close you are, and how fast you move, is totally dependent on the temperature. This is "duh!" for experienced painters, but newbies usually follow what's written on the can. I wish the can would have said, "If it is not 68d but much warmer, you will need to move in closer and go faster." Also, I read many sites that said to do an initial "tack coat" (like is recommended with primer and base). You cannot 'feather' clear coat, or "apply a light tack coat." You will end up with severe orange peel. This paint has to go on in a solid sheet, where all the droplets combine or pool into one flat surface. Individual drops will each reflect the light in a different direction creating that heavy orange peel with a dull matte finish. You need a solid sheet to reflect the light evenly, to get that high gloss look. One annoyance - and maybe it was just me, but I found when the cans still had product but were low (maybe 1/4 full) I'd be in the middle of applying a second or third coat and suddenly the can would shoot aerosol with little paint for a split second, spitting dry-spray all over my previously perfect panel - which would result in me having to wait 8rs until I could wet-sand it flat and do a new coat. After that happened twice I stopped using cans once they felt like they were about 2/3rds gone. Maybe a quick spritz of a small repair area would be ok but I was clearing a fender panel in one case, and a bumper in another. Something to beware of anyway. So having done it wrong every way possible, and having to re-do it and re-buy the paint multiple times, (not to mention base when I burned through sanding the clear), I'd say that once you have the hang of using it in your particular conditions, it's great. And you might get lucky and use it right, right off the bat. But it can require 'practice' for newbies. Especially if painting a large area like a panel, vs a small area or something like a guitar. One tip I read that worked for me: After the can is activated the shelf life is about 48hrs - probably less in the heat. But if you put the left-over paint can in the fridge, it will stay a good long time (months, reportedly). I put one of my cans that was about half gone in the fridge and ordered more... when the new clear came 2 weeks later, I used the can from the fridge first by letting it warm up a couple hours in the garage. Then shook it a couple min and it was as good as a freshly activated can. And no, this isn't the can that spit. (I learned by then to not use any cans once they felt like they had about 1/4 product left.)

Great quality and coverage for my DIY in-my-garage bumper painting project. Great spray pattern. Went on smooth. Very nice finish once dry. Recommended!

Worked great for a rust repair. Not exactly sure how the bottom "pin" activation works. Is it pressed and released or does it need to be held pressed in? I held it in while shaking it for ~15 minutes then released it to spray. Unfortunately once activated it's a 1x use. Otherwise pretty good for rattle can paint.

This clearcoat does not mess around. It works super well. Here are some tips: 1. USE A RESPIRATOR. This shit is toxic and dries super quick. You do *not* want it in your lungs. 2. Shake it like you mean it. I let the product sit for an hour between coats and didn't shake it - immediately noticed the difference. (Went on "wetter", took longer to dry.) 3. Use multiple *THIN* layers. They dry faster, so you can get your item coated quicker. 4. The can says to use within 48 hrs, but I was able to use it up to 72 hrs after activating. I did notice some quality degradation, but it still worked overall. Over all, I would say this clear coat is awesome. Truly automotive quality in a can. It's a bit expensive - but when you realize what you're getting there's pretty clear value for the money.

Very good quality but pricy

good product , very stable finish

Was great clear coat. Spray painted the roof of my car. Good wide spray and 2k. I applied it too light and had orange peel. just apply thicker layers. Works great

El envío llegó un día antes de lo estimado y el producto por si sólo es garantía aunque un poco caro por la naturaleza del mismo, ya que es normalmente vendido en E.U. Se usara en el ramo automotriz. Ya probado previamente. Muy recomendable tanto el vendedor como el producto.

This clear coat is the best clear coat for headlight restoration. It is very forgiving but DO NOT OVER APPLY AS IT WILL RUN. For best result shake the can for 2 minutes and then pop the bleeder and shake it again to mix the 2k in. (If your doing headlights you will want to do 2 to 4 coats. 5-10 minutes between each coat depending on humidity. I did it in my laundry room which is very dry I waited 10 minutes between each coat and it looks amazing. Coat number 1 is super light just enough for the paint to bond and adhere to the headlight. Coat 2 a little bit heavier For the last coat no matter if it’s 3 or 4 that one has to be the heaviest without running. This clear coat is amazing and with proper prep it makes the headlights look like new. Only one problem but you can’t blame the paint for it, the paint only lasts about 24 hours once the bleeders popped they say up to 48 hours if kept refrigerated. 24 hours is the longest I’d say the paint is good after that you’re pushing your luck. I’d say with 2-3 coats you could probably do 4-6 headlights depending on how heavy your going. Here’s the sanding steps I used it’s a lot but these sand paper steps are the best results I’ve gotten. 3M (sand paper only) P320 (50 percent faster sanding) (only needed if the factory clear is holding on, wipe with iso after each sand to see if you’ve missed anything) P600 (start here if the clear is all gone and the headlight is yellow) P800 (refine 600 grit scratches) P1000 (refine 800 grit scratches) P1500 (refine 1000 grit scratches for a super smooth surface to the touch) P2000 (refine the 1500 grit scratches for a super smooth not super orange peely finish) I 100% would recommend this product as I have now purchased it 3 or 4 times. It’s great because when you restore headlights on a vehicle it completely changes the look of the car. 5 out of 5 could not be more pleased. P.S this paint self levels and gets better looking with time (after about 12 hours your safe to touch it but I wouldn’t reinstall them until about the 24 to 36 hour mark.