Siraya Tech Blu Nylon 3D Printer Resin Nylon-Like Strong and Precise High-Resolution 405nm UV-Curing Rapid Resin for LCD DLP 3D Printer and 8K Capable (1kg, Nylon Black)

Very tough, virtually no odor, very accurate. Needs to be at 25°C to print well, as it's fairly thick. Slightly translucent very dark blue/purple. Can be dyed opaque black with RIT Proline dye. (Don't waste your time trying to use the new consumer dye - it's garbage. The old stuff works if you have any though.) Best print settings with an Anycubic Photon Mono X seem to be 3 burn-in layers @ 14 sec. / 2.6 sec exposure time 50um layers. You need to be certain that the bottom of your build plate is flat and parallel to the LCD. I had to surface mine on a milling machine with a 6" flycutter to get it flat. Had to take off almost 0.010". If it's not dead flat you will probably have print failures. If you don't have a milling machine (why not?) then you should be able to get it flat with various grades of wet/dry sandpaper and a [minimum] 1/4" thick glass plate. Start with 80g and go up to about 320 max. in 4 steps. Start with 320 to see how far off it is first. If it's as far off as mine was, you will be there quite a while. Or mill it. Best way to get perfect prints (on any machine that uses the same clamping setup as the Mono X) - loosen the build plate screws , home the machine (do NOT put a piece of paper on the LCD - put your vat on the machine - empty, of course). Once the machine is homed, lightly press it against the LCD and tighten all the screws. Raise the build plate, loosen the clamp knob, and insert a piece of 0.003-0.005" thick paper between the build plate upper support and the carriage effectively raising the build plate by ~0.005". This also seems to damp some of the vibrations inherent in the machine resulting in better print detail. This only works on machines that clamp the plate to the carriage the way the Mono X (or regular Photon Mono) does it. BE CAREFUL - if you don't know what I'm talking about, don't try this - you may end up breaking your LCD. If you have difficulty getting prints off the base, try sticking it in a deepfreeze for a few hours. The print should just slide off. Put something under it in the deepfreeze to catch drips. Please note that any food in the freezer that isn't totally sealed will end up smelling/tasting like resin. Don't assume that something is sealed just because it's in a box. Ask me how I know...

Finally a material that prints well. The only caveat it you must heat your resin to 90 degrees to print. I'm actually printing about 100 F. I've hated this printer since day one and never had a print once and done. However this material heated up prints a fairly strong and useful part on first go. This material has very good wear and doesn't warp after print. I do have some stretching during print. I used recommended setting and all is well.

I was looking for a resin to make structural parts with, and this does a great job. At a thickness of 1/8 inch or more, it's very sturdy, approaching the strength and smoothness of injection molding. I had to put it in a vise and bend it with a channel lock to break it. At thinner gauges, it's flexible enough to bend 180 degrees before breaking, and can be stiffened by mixing with more rigid resins to get a mix of stiffness and flexibility. But you will need a small heater to work with this resin well, as it requires 30°C to get it runny. I am using this heater https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07573FKSG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title plugged into a digital thermostat https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I15S6OM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title to regulate the resin temperature. You'll need to find a way to attach the heater and the thermostat probe underneath the red cover, and warm it up 5-10 minutes before printing. I attached the heater at the top end of the z axis on the right side, out of the way of the build plate, and attached the temp probe to the left side. Just set the thermostat to turn on at 30° and off at 31° to keep warm. Easy.

I bought this resin specifically to test the strength of prints against breaking when dropped. In dropping it on a hard tile floor, it resisted breaking initially, but after a few falls, a piece did snap off. It's definitely not as strong as I hoped, but better than other resins I've tried.

Major NOTE: make sure your resin is about 75-80 degrees F when printing. Only problem I ever had with this stuff after over a year and a half using it was the one instance I printed around 65D F. Other than that its gonna stick to your build plate and not give you any issues. I love this stuff. Used the chitubox settings from there web site and ran a calibration print. the very first calibration print was not only perfect(Phrozen mini 8k) but was better than many of my other resins that I have calibrated. Plate adhesion is good. its not going to stop bullets and is about as flexible as me at 5AM but its much better than standard proto resins.

Precise, tough, easy... Superior resin all around. Even better then obsidian blu (in my opinion). This is now my go-to for any parts that must survive.

I was using a Phrozen mighty 8K printer the 1st test part came out excellent. I made a break test, it is so strong it's overwhelming. I was trying to use Phrozen's Onyx Rigid Pro410 there is nothing Pro about it. I wasted several days trial and error over and over I spent lots time cleaning not printing. Using Siraya Blu parts showed after a few hrs of printing in the 1st time The Siraya Blu is highly recommend if you need strong usable parts right out of your printer. Siraya Blu also worked with the older Anycube Photon printer.

Was evaluating this resin for its mechanical properties, they were good just after printing. After 5 months test pieces when flexed cracked easily. Followed all manufacturers directions, no outdoor UV exposure, no paint. Unfortunate!

Résine de grande qualité, comme toujours avec la marque Siraya Tech. La résine BLU est un peu plus souple que la Fast et est donc moins cassante. Par contre, elle est plus odorante durant l'impression.

Todo bien.

Una gran resina con excelente resistencia, para prototipos funcionales es la mejor opción

Habe die Resin von Siraya Tech Blu Black gekauft und sehr präzise Teile für eine Nema23 Planetgrtriebe gedrückt.Die Teile sind Millimeter genau geworden,habe eine Anycubic M5S Drucker mit selbst gebauten Behälter Heizung "4 Stk. PTC Heizelement AC DC 12V Aluminiumschale Keramik Heizplatte Keramik Heizplatte Temperiergeräte Heater(220℃ 5—28W)" und 40 Grad Celsius verwedet.2 Stk. Komplett Getriebe hat der drücker mit der Siraya Einstellungen in 2 Stunden und 20 Minuten gedruckt.Die Getrieben wurden zusätzlich mit Liqui Moly Lithium Fett geschmiert,keine geräusche und keine abrieb der komponenten.Werde Siraya Tech wieder kaufen! Tolle druck Ergebnisse.

Non ha nessuna delle proprietà elencate, ha solo un bel colore, per il resto è uguale alle altre resine con in più la difficoltà di stampa.