Portable Chainsaw Mill 36 Inches 304 stainless steel and Aluminum Planking Milling Bar Size 14 Inches to 36 Inches

Have used this mill now for several logs along g with a famertec 660 and 42" bar. The jig works vary well but you will want to upgrade some of the adjustment hardware to coupler nuts for ease of adjustments down the road.. I watch how you assemble it and use a roofing square to ensure your spaced correctly on both thickness adjustments before starting your cut and it'll go as easy as the expensive ones. Would but again!

I do not regret buying this

The clamping system for the chainsaw isn’t sturdy enough by itself. The saw will move off track and cause the chain to hit the metal blocks. You need to use the two screws, one for the tip and one for the back. The saw blade will have a hole at the tip you can use. You will have to drill a hole in the center of the rear of the blade to secure the back. That’s the improvement they mention at the end of the manual. Once you do that the blade will stay centered in the guides. The clamping method will keep the screws in place. Just make sure the chain moves freely as you tighten the bolts holing clamp bracket together. Aside from that the sawmill works as designed.

Finally got to use this after a year or so. It definitely took some trial and error. But it holds solid, nothing slipped or flexed. Did exactly what it's supposed to. I would suggest keeping some extra bolts with you for the part that clamps to the bar, and make sure everything is tight. Would definitely recommend this to anyone that wants to try.

Ugly = 1st time using V clamp for U-bolt on one side split/cracked in half with very little force applied to nuts. Currently trying to figure out how to get this one piece replaced by seller without having to return the whole item.Bad = The steel square tubing that is the support for the bar clamps as well as the thickness adjustment indents easily when applying the necessary, clamping force to overcome movement due to the vibrations of the chainsaw/cutting. The smallest nuts and Phillips head bolts provide good clamping force on the end to end round pole alignment support however the nuts strip easily with the provided 8 mm wrench and I would’ve preferred something other than Phillips head as well.Good = almost all of the hardware seems to be much better quality than a previous chainsaw mill that I’ve used and all seems to be straight and aligns well. I like that there is plenty of room to get a socket onto coupling nuts when adjusting thickness of cut as another mill I’ve used did not have the same room. I also like the black handle stays put and does not slip off as well as has a hole on top for storing a tool. I also like to see that it seems the bar clamps provide straight alignment, and I also like the option of being able to drill the bar and bolt the clamp to the bar.

I bought this mill to make lumber for wood shop projects. The local store doesn’t sell slabs of sufficient thickness for what I want to do so I wanted to make my own. This mill does the job perfectly.I have it mounted to my Stihl 461 with a 32” bar. I bought a ripping chain for milling and highly recommended that you do so as well. A standard chain should have a cutter angle of around 30° where the ripping chain has a cutter angle of only 10°. It is also sharpened with a special flat/angled file instead of a round file. It is made for milling and should not be used for general cutting.There are no step by step instructions for assembly, but it comes with a schematic that shows how to put it together. It took me about half an hour. Mounting it on the saw is pretty strait forward. Just make sure you clamp it where the sprocket/tip meets the bar, not on the sprocket rivets. Doing so will compress the tip and not allow the sprocket in the tip to spin freely, ruining your bar which can get expensive. I get about 25" of useable bar with the 32" bar. I could probably get another inch if I were to take the dogs off the powerhead but that’s a lot of work for minimal benefit.When milling, go slow and make sure you support the slab with wedges or shims to keep the weight of the slab off the bar. Let the saw do the work and don’t rush it.For the first cut, I made a rail out of some 1x4 and scrap 2x4 pieces. I secure this to the log with screws on the bigger end first and measure to my intended line which I draw with a level on the log end. On the smaller end I shim up the rail to a similar line the opposite log end. I then set the mill for that thickness and make my first cut. For subsequent cuts the mill rests right on the previous cut without the rail. There are videos on YouTube showing how this works.Overall, I am happy with this little mill. It makes accurate cuts of any thickness. I was surprised at the weight. It is very light and easy to use. If you’re wanting to mill your own lumber I highly recommend this mill.

There are a lot of products out there for this type of work. I'm not looking to use this everyday but needed something specific for a job I was doing. The product worked great. I had one bolt I cross threaded but got another bolt from the store and made it work.