Electric Bicycle Bike Scooter e-Bike Brushless DC Motor Controller 48V 60V 64V 500W

Super bueno fue para mi mamá en Cuba

this was a score! for $25 you cannot go wrong. this controller is as feature heavy as you could ask for and has some real guts…u lemme explain:i have a very heavy e-bike, and it has a 500W direct drive brushless hub motor which is powered by a 48V 19.2Ah/921Wh lithium ion battery pack. between bike and rider we’re talking about 450 pounds. when i opened this controller, i was delighted to see twelve FETs. it is rated for 30A at 48V but i think they’re being modest for real, because even on a cursory maiden ride, this baby wants to stand up on its hind wheel. its potent. no shunting required, this controller moves some serious current. beside being strong, it has most every feature you could want in an e-bike/scooter controller: hi/lo brake, reverse, key lock/anti theft, alarm/three “speed” power modes, speedo output, and the “self learn” cable that most controllers use these days. my motor uses hall effect sensors to detect rotor/stator relationship and accurately time phase pulsing, so i can’t speak to its usefulness as a hall-less controller. all in all, for the money this thing is a little champ, and works like a charm. twelve FETs is nice too, and is why this box is so potent. many 500W controllers only use three FETs per phase; here the fourth is why this thing moves my fat ass along like a ducati lolhighly recommended

I have an Ebike conversion/repair business, and I recently had a customer that wanted more than 20 mph out of his 2 Heybike Mars V1.0. So these were cheap, and +5 amps on max, the old ones were 13A. When installed on my test ride they were bounching off the Max discharge rate of the stock 48V 12AH battery pack(30A max 20A continuous). I had the current set at 18A. So I opened one up...80V caps, 12 Mosfets, a TON of solder on the phase rail, and a THICC BOI shunt. So I hooked on up to my 60V "moped style" bike that I run a Sabvaton 45A with a 2KW Direct Drive that I push 3200W out of, for about 40-42 mph. According to the Inline power meter I use which is pretty damn accurate these pull 37.7 Amps at 60V or around 2200 Watts!!! I was running 36 mph, and with a 48V they pulled a 80 pound 20X4 fat tire "Super73" style bike with my 180 lbs up to a solid 34 mph...if you want a stock 500W replacement, look elsewhere. If you want to lock up your clutch, go 35 and have Regen braking on 48V, these are the hot ticket. 25 bucks lolol.

Worked for about a week

The power output to the wheel is all there. Everything others are mentioning like modding,and being underrated is the truth. I don't know how long it'll last but I'll buy another one without hesitating. For $25 bux you'll get ya money's worth.

Got this controller to swap out my couple year old Ecotric 36v 500 watt controller. Which is all gooed up with a sealing resin so you can't repair it. I eliminated the LCD display computer. I added a 1000 watt 48v front wheel and needed to boost the back wheel power using a 48 volt battery until the back needs to be replaced then will go with a 1000 watt rear wheel. So using the throttle, voltmeter, 3-speed and with a sensor speedometer I now get no load speed of 25 mph on low, 32 -33 on med and 35 - 36 on high using back wheel only. More torque. I got 2 of them. Good for spare parts too. Repairing and modifying controllers is the way to go.

The media could not be loaded. It’s working but I also found a clump of dog hair inside of it so I’m a little concerned about that for 25 bucks I want to say you can’t go wrong but there’s other sellers that might not have boards soldered by dogs

I have successfully modified this controller and have already had my 64 volt scooter up to 45 mph! I know with a little more fine tuning i could do over 50 mph!There's a small metal tube that connects the negative side if the battery input wire on the pc board to it's components. The tube is hollow and very thin walled intentionally to limit the amount of current.The modification is to add solder and if possible, extra copper wire pieces onto the shunt building it up so it will move more amperage across to the other side.There are a couple web pages that mention this mod. Be careful not to get excessive heat or solder in the wrong places and discharge the capacitors prior to working on anything electronic. This mod along with setting the 3 speed connector into "high" (by fitting a small loop of wire to connect the black wire to the blue wire) on the 3 wire connector of the controller.Talk about excited scooter! This thing wants to lift the front wheel off the pavement and accelerate like a bat out of hell!Please be careful riding a scooter at these speeds!