OTC (8150) Conical Pitman Arm Puller,Black

I am a retired mechanic; I used this puller on my 1996 Ford F-150 4x4 XLT standard cab pickup truck. However, you will need to have patience, knowledge, and common sense when using this puller. The puller is too big to just put on and go at it. So, rather than cut the frame, or remove the entire power steering unit, what I did was 1) place two adjustable soft straps around the power steering unit and the frame. I put one in the front and the other in the back of it to hold it while I loosened the bolts holding it in place. 2) Then, after loosening and removing the mounting bolts, I carefully shimmied the unit forward while keeping an eye on the steering shaft, so it didn't come out of place. 3) Finally, I installed the puller and slowly, by hand, NOT WITH AN IMPACT GUN, BUT BY HAND! I tightened the puller until the pitman arm came off. Which was relatively fast! So, if I can do it, then so can you. Now, keep in mind that I pulled off a six-inch dropped aftermarket pitman arm that I put on my truck when I lifted it decades ago. I recently lowered the vehicle and needed to remove the dropped pitman arm in order to install the stock one. I did have to grind just a little bit off the side of the pitman arm to get the puller to fit snugly. This was a heavy-duty six-inch dropped aftermarket pitman arm, not a factory one from Ford. It turned 38" tires for many years, so my point is, that the pitman arm had plenty of time and force on it, mating it to the steering shaft. Bottom-line.... This puller works and is worth the money spent on it. GO OTC! If you have read this far, then I know you will agree. Hope this helps.

This is a larger version of the 8149. I used the 8149 for a smaller pitman arm on a 1965 Mustang, but it was too small to fit the pitman arm of a 2001 Dodge 2500 van. The 8150 fit fine. The centering point can be removed, which is useful if the tool needs to be slightly off center. This tool also works well removing tie rod ends and idler arms, and in some cases, ball joints. This same size tool with some modification is sold as a 4964 for Polaris ball joints, and included with the 6735 kit for Sprinter ball joints (available individually as 539885). The tool appears to be of the highest quality, heavy, thick, and well constructed, so I expect it can endure very difficult jobs. The cutout is about 1.5" wide at the front and about 1.25" deep. The 8150 has a slight bevel in the opening compared to the 8149 which does not, which could make a difference if whatever you are grabbing is close to the opening size. See attached pictures for comparison. The one I received was made in China.

Very pleased, works well.

Holy cow this is a game changer. I have numerous gear and pitman pullers, but when I went to rebuild my 1985 Toyota land cruiser steering gear, could not get the pitman off even after hitting it with a torch. Put this on, cranked it, and the pitman came right off. Far far superior to the typical C-shaped pullers.

I've got to say like so many other reviewers that the OTC 8150 Conical Pitman Arm Puller is, indeed, a beast of a puller! The situation with my 1986 GMC S-15 Jimmy (like an S-10 Blazer of that era) involved not being able to use the standard "C" (or "U") pullers available for loan from the auto parts stores because there was very little space between the pitman arm and the steering gear box at the output shaft and therefore the ears on those pullers would not go into place properly. The comparatively thin (approximately 3/16") open end part of this puller slid right into place! I had even tried pickle forks to break it loose, to no avail. But I had the arm off with this baby and an 18" breaker bar in literally less than 5 minutes! The other great thing about this puller is that the conical shape allows for a more even pull along the axis of the output shaft and won't shift to one side, as is possible with the other style puller. And the puller bolt is much more heavy duty than most other pullers. Just be sure and put some axle grease or other heavy duty lube (but not penetrating oil) on the bolt threads before use. Even doing so, I noticed a couple of the threads on the bolt became shiny after the first and only pull I made with the tool. This could possibly indicate that after several more uses, the bolt or puller body threads might strip, although that is not a given. But being the puller is made in China and no longer in the USA as OTC used to do, quality and durability could be an issue with this tool. I do know, however, that for my purposes this OTC 8150 puller did the job to perfection! And with Prime shipping I got it in 2 days!

I purchased this to use on a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins 4x4 truck. On these trucks the distance between the pitman arm and the steering box shaft sleeve is tight. This puller fits in between the pitman arm and sleeve where others don't. With that said, this puller does not slide in far enough to properly align the screw shaft with the steering shaft inset. This is because the conical portion of the puller housing isn't deep enough. I had to use a Dremel with a round sanding head to make it deeper. After that it fits well but I had to remove about 3/16" to make it work. Additionally, you'll need to go very slow with this puller once it tightens up on the steering shaft. Work with the puller and a heavy hammer or dead blow. The puller is strong enough to remove the arm but I had to purchase a second one because I stripped out the threads in the housing on the first one. I gave this puller four stars because of the above but it did do the job intended and with the above in mind performed well.

This pitman arm puller is a beast. Worked perfectly on my 2nd gen Dodge Ram Cummins 3/4 ton.

To preface this review, I'm an avid DIY person. I'd rather spend money on tools and time researching to complete repairs than to pay someone else. My new garage project is a '01 Right Hand Drive Jeep Cherokee which my sister purchased to use for her postal route. A ton of maintenance items need to be performed (AC overhaul, Power Steering, Rear Main Seal, Electrical issues, and a little body work) but are well within my abilities. I spent 3 days attempting to remove the Pitman Arm in order to replace the seals and stop a horrible leak which would drain the system within a day. I soaked the thing in PB Blaster, hit the sides and the puller bolt with a 3lb sledge, applied heat, and only managed to bend the 2 pullers rented from Autozone and Advance Auto. Nothing worked until this arrived. I removed it from the standard, "No Frills", packaging and applied some synthetic grease to the threads just to ensure everything would go smoothly. I then fit it on the power steering gear box which was in my vise and used my 1/2" impact to tighten the bolt on the tool. 10 seconds and POP! The Pitman Arm was loose! For those curious as to why I just didn't cut it off and buy a new one.... I wasn't able to cut the pitman arm off due to standard LHD pitman arms being keyed differently (a few degrees difference) so I REALLY needed this to work. I know this because I ordered one that was supposed to fit from Amazon and compared the two. Needless to say, this will remain in my steadily growing arsenal of tools. Even if it never get's used again, it's saved me the headache and money of having to source a replacement from the high cost dealership or overseas.