Rust Bullet RBA54 Automotive Rust Inhibitor Paint, 1 Gallon Metal Can, Metallic Gray

I used this stuff on the rusty floorboards of my 76 GMC Pickup. I went through a learning curve as it is a very unique product. I read all the instructions. One thing I had to deal with not in the instructions was the sweltering heat and humidity we've been having lately here in East Tennessee. The product is ideal for rusty surfaces. The first coat soaks in the metal and actually strengthens it, so by the time you put on the second coat you've got a thicker sealed rust resistant piece of metal. I gave it a 4 star for 2 reasons, the price seems to be somewhat expensive compared to all the rust converters and primers, second the product itself, it has a short shelf life. I had some repairs to make before the main job and had trouble later on getting the lid off the can as this stuff acted like glue and almost bonded the lid on. I wound up pouring it into plastic containers with screw caps like vitamins would come in & even then it started to get hard and thick on top, so I wound up putting plastic wrap under the lid, putting the lid on tight and keeping it in the refrigerator. So I would recommend using it another time of the year when it's not so sweltering. So it's best to just open the can and use it immediately for your project. I should have ordered a smaller can to make the repairs before opening the main container. The first time I made the mistake of not wearing gloves & it took several days for it to come off & you've got to be careful to not get it on your car seats, etc so cover stuff with plastic or a tarp etc.. I would use some kind of solvent like acetone to clean drips up etc. This stuff seems to really bond to metal as a drop got on a pair of scissors and would not come off. So I think this is an ideal product for some projects like restoring an old rusty car or some metal objects exposed outdoors to the elements.

I've worked in corrosion remediation for a bit over 20 years.The gold standard clean and paint begins with a white metal abrasive blast, followed by high performance coating systems.If maintained, it will last a good while.This is very expensive and rarely seems to get the maintenance painting necessary.For my money, time, effort and bloody knuckles, a coat or two of Rust Bullet, followed by a topcoat (if you want), is vastly more cost effective.As a test recently, I painted some wire brushed rusty piping. Once it had dried for a few hours, I tried to remove the rust Bullet coating with a new MBX Bristle Blaster.These things are a notch below sand blasting.Without parking overnight on the new coating (with the MBX tool), the single coat of Rust Bullet did not come off.Even a little.What is it? Not really a primer.Certainly not a rust converter.I feel it is better than Por 15.It is my go-to coating for infrastructure recovery

This stuff is by far the best rust stopper out there. It is NOT a rust converter. Once it cures, it is very, very tough and impregnable to acetone, xylene, toluene, lacquer thinner, etc...every thing that would normally dissolve a paint or primer. As a test, I cut a rusty panel out of a car and left some parts rusty, some parts I wirebrushed, and then painted with this stuff. I deliberately left rusty edges to check for rust creep. This metal has set outside my shop for three years now, occasionally being lost by being covered with wet leaves. The Rust Bullet shows no signs of rust through and rust doesn't seem to be creeping up from the edges.As noted by others though, USE GLOVES!! Nothing short of a grinder will take it off your skin.Another suggestion, buy in small containers because once opened, it will start to cure. I use Bloxygen to retard the curing and keep it usable for a couple months.

Repaired some fender rust with this stuff. Too early to tell how well it will hold up in the long term, but it appears to be impenetrable after applying two coats and allowing to cure for 24 hours. Sure, you can sand it off with sandpaper, but it looks like it's not going to wear off through normal use and it certainly doesn't look like it will leak water/air through the coating. I also applied Blackshell as a topcoat, which seems almost rubbery in a way. It's very hard, but the finish has some "grip" to it. Again, I doubt any sort of water or air will penetrate this stuff. Went on very easy and dried quickly. Blackshell is fairly high gloss, but is more of a very dark grey than a deep black. Doesn't quite match my car paint, but it's close enough. Only downside is that after the can sat open for about 30 minutes while I applied it, it really skinned over fast and was unusable after less than a week. The instructions say to pour out only enough to do your job and immediately replace the lid on the can, so I did not follow those directions and paid the price. I would definitely buy this stuff again, and I would immediately cover it when not in use.

This paint is indestructible. The film adhesion is unbelievable. Reminds me of liquid steel. If you get it on your hands, prepare to live with a gray coating for the rest of your life. I have never encountered a paint like this with this kind of "mechanical" stability once on a substrate. You need to wear a respirator though unless you are outdoors or set up a fan to draw air away from the spot where you are applying the coating. On "clean" steel this stuff is probably as durable as you will ever get. On rust (my application), of course I have no knowledge yet of the potential durability of the coating but it is certainly clear that on clean steel this stuff will be unbelievably durable. It will be here after you are dead...LOL.