Loctite Plastics Bonder Bonding System, 2 Gram & 4 Gram Tubes, 6 Pack - Clear Superglue for Plastic, Wood, Metal, Crafts, & Repair, Instant Glue Adhesive, Quick Dry

EDIT: Two years later and still holding strong. I recently had to pull apart some silicone rubber that I had glued to PVC. The glue bond was extremely strong, the rubber tore without the glue bond ever letting go at all. That's the most you could ask for. It also works well for metal to plastic. I keep this handy for all sorts of plastic repairs and builds. First I'll have to say that the little tube of glue that comes with this turned out to be useless, it just glued itself shut. Not a big problem as there was a large bottle of Locktite superglue handy, so I used that. The activator agent comes in a metal tube with a felt tip, similar to a magic marker or Sharpie. The fluid is clear and hard to see, but it does come out and you can smell it. I treated both surfaces to be glued, even if one wasn't plastic. After the fluid evaporates you use the superglue just like normal. I was happily gluing silicone rubber tubes to a softer silicone rubber base with no problems. Adhesion is fast and strong. Then I read that this is NOT for silicone rubber. Oh well, I don't care, it works great and is easy to use. The bond is often stronger than the silicone itself. What more could you want? There was plenty of the activator for my use, in fact I have some left over.

Pros: It did work. I had broken plastic on this diskette drive for a Compaq Armada 4120. The plastic that keeps the drive in the machine was broken. This stuff is very effective if you're careful. I can still replace the drive if needed. Step 1 is super easy. Cons: The Citizen W1D in the plastic housing is a paperweight. Ok that's not the plastic bonders fault. The glue in step 2 will stick to your fingers if you're wreckless. It's very hard to remove. Make sure you seal the glue tightly or you're cutting the container open. The repair job is not pretty. Final thoughts: Follow instructions carefully and you'll be fine. Seal everything tightly when done using. The pen seemed dry but it still seemed to work with the minimal amount that came out.

I was tired of regular house number decals peeling away from my polypropylene mailbox. I was able to use this to attach some molded plastic house numbers. Regular glue wouldn't hold very well, even after scuffing up both surfaces. The plastic house numbers would quickly break off, even with conventional superglue. Fortunately the dried superglue only stuck to the back of the letters rather than ruining the mailbox! This stuff was able to grip and hold firmly with only a few seconds of pressure. First I roughed up the back of the numbers with coarse sandpaper. Then I held them in place against the mailbox and traced their outlines, so I'd know where to put the activator. Since the mailbox didn't take marker or pencil very well, I lightly scored the outlines with a pocket knife. Then I filled in the outlines of all numbers with the activator. I also applied the activator to the back of the molded numbers. This allowed the activator some time to do its thing. After that, I traced a thin line of the glue over the prepped area on the mailbox and pressed the numbers in, held it with some pressure for about five to ten seconds, and repeated for each number. The house numbers have held on firmly for the last couple of weeks, including some very rough storms and hot, sunny summer days. So I'm going to chalk this up as a success.

I've used this before, but when I needed a fast glue recently, my old tube was hardened, so I bought these. The glue works great and gives you just enough time to get pieces in place before it hardens. Unfortunately, if you don't use the whole thing fairly quickly, it'll harden and be unusable. That's why this set of six is so handy - if I through one away, I'm still good to go...

I really don't like to give bad reviews but sometimes it's helpful for others to know your experience with a product. I wanted a 2 part epoxy glue. The double barrel push tubes are messy and wasteful so I wanted 2 separate tubes that I could control the flow and then mix. It's hard to find this now for some reason. As careful as I tried to be reading the description on this product it was not 2 part epoxy. It's hard to see what you are doing and it is basically a surface prep and a super glue. The prep has a felt tip (like a magic marker) and maybe okay for a flat surface but it you want to get into a crevice you can't tell if you have since it is colorless and dry (ish). You put it on both surfaces. Then you put the second part on one surface after a minute. It's like super glue in that you have an instant bond with no opportunity for repositioning. I bought two packages since I thought it was what I needed. After using a tiny dab from the first package the lid on the part 2 tube became stuck fast. I could not even break it free with needle nose pliers. Since I was ready to use it that moment I pricked a hold in the side to at least get one more application. A day later that tube was hard and no good. So I got out the second tube and once again after one tiny dab of use the lid was glued shut. I had even wiped the tip with fingernail polish remover to try to prevent that. So out of 2 packages I will have gotten maybe 4 tiny applications. So I'm back to my search for 2 tube epoxy glue.

I bought this to repair a weighted action lever of a synthesizer keyboard key that had broken. It was made of nylon, and nylon does not glue. The repair was a polished steel weight that had been overmolded with nylon and had broken where the two materials came together. I used this bonder by coating both parts with the activator then applying the bonding adhesive , clamped them gently, and left them overnight. Next morning, good as new. These weighted action parts are both expensive and unobtainium at this time, so my musician friend was ecstatic. Time will tell how long this will last in usage so we put this part up in the highest note on the keyboard under the assumption it would get infrequent use giving it the opportunity to last the rest of the life of the instrument. If I owned this myself, I would have left it mid keybed where it will get hammered all the time just to see how durable it really was. Time will tell. But the product did exactly what it claims and I am glad to be adding this product to my "glue" collection.

This Locate Plastic bonder system is basically just superglue, with a "step one" primer of Heptane. Superglue on its own doesn't "stick" well (adhere) to a lot of plastics, even though its strong stuff. The solution is to "prime" the plastic with something that allows the superglue to get a better grip. That is what Loctite plastic bonder system is. Step 1 (the primer), is a "Heptane" liquid/gas "pen". You pop the cap, and then draw (like a felt tipped marker) on the plastic on the bond points. The liquid heptane in the catridge wicks down the felt tip, onto the plastic, and it dissolves "into" the plastic. On a brand new Step 1 cartridge, you can see a slight color adjustment as the liquid Heptane coats the plastic. That disappears nearly immediately (in less than 1 second) as heptane turns gaseous and evaporates nearly instantly at room temperature. Part 2 is just cynoacrylate (superglue). You can get superglue much cheaper just about everywhere when compared to Loctite Plastic's Bonder System. So what you are really paying for here is the Heptane pen. When you use the pen, IMMEDIATELY put the pen top back on when done. The Heptane is VERY volatile and evaporates quickly and easily. You are burning money ever second you have the top off the pen. Your use should be get ready eyeball your pen approaches to the plastic surfaces, be 100% prepared, pull of the pen-top, draw onto each area to be bonded, and then immediately replace the pen-cap again. Then wait for 30-60 seconds (the time it takes for all the Heptane to evaporate), and then use the Step 2 plastics bonder. If you run out of Step 2 (rare, but does happen if you follow my recommendations to Preserve your Primary pens as long as possible), then you can just use a regular bit of SuperGlue in place of the Step 2 tube, because that all that is in there anyway. Some plastics are more dependent on good priming for a good glue seal with high adhesion. Others need it less (more porous plastics are less dependent). Some plastics cannot be bonded with Superglue at all, even with priming. This glue, when it works (which is most of the time if used properly) is the "neatest" solution, with the least amount of over-glue leaking out of the glue joint. And if you are quick with a paper towel (on hand before you start), you can even clean up over-glue leaks. Holding is OK, but varies with the success of the Step 1 primer heptane. That Heptane basically dissolves mirco-holes into the plastic for the Step2 superglue to adhere to. For finer work, or to get pieces into a "locked" in place, I used this glue on plastic. Then, on plastic on which I can put plenty of overglue (e.g. places were the esthetics do not matter), I use instead an Epoxy type (or Urethane type) glue to bond instead. Urethans are usually "runnier" and thinner (good for car bumpers), and Epoxy's are a bit thicker (but often stronger and set faster). I use those after the piece has been secured with the Loctite Step1 + Step2 bonder (e.g. primer + superglue). That makes the plastic indestructably strong (epoxy), or much tougher (Urethane) then the Loctite by itself. But if you need to bond plastic and the esthetics do matter, then this Loctite primer + glue is a good solution.

My daughter has a toy dog that she is obsessed with. We got her one, the leg broke and I could not glue it with any kind of super glue, I purchased probably 5-6 types of glue desperately trying to fix this toy. The 3 legged pup went to "the vet" (meaning: we purchased an identical one lol) and the same thing happened to the new one. The leg snapped off. I don't understand the sciencey stuff behind super glue, all I know is this stuff fixed the leg and it feels stronger than the one that didn't break! This is definitely worth a try if you're having problems fixing or gluing any type of plastic that regular superglue can't bond to. All I hope is that it holds up and doesn't fall apart. $4 on a tube of glue is definitely better than spending $20 replacing this beloved toy dog.