CMT-030 OE Matched Clutch Master Cylinder - Compatible with Select Toyota T100, Tacoma

I bought this and the Aisin CRT-014 slave cylinder to replace the original parts on my 1996 Toyota T100. They fit perfectly and they work well. I re-used the old hydraulic line. I just drained the fluid, removed and replaced the parts, refilled with DOT3 brake fluid, and bled the line. When reconnecting the hydraulic line, I made sure the nuts went into the receiving threads nicely, without any excessive force applied. Bleeding the line was also fairly easy, it was a one person job and it took about 5 minutes, without any special tool but a clear hose (i got this at a home improvement store). This is how I did the bleeding: connect a 2 foot long clear hose to the bleed nipple (you might want to wrap some metal hook up wire around the hose near the nipple and pull it snugly toward the nipple; the hose has a tendency to slip out); make sure the hose form a U shape (it goes up an inch or so higher than the body of the slave cylinder before goes down into your fluid collection container. Don't let its other end touch the used fluid in the container). Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is always filled with fresh brake fluid from a brand new, just opened container. As you loosen the bleed nipple, gravity will drain the fluid from the slave cylinder (make sure the pedal is in the up position, the inactive position. A pedal in the down position blocks the fluid from the reservoir getting into the master cylinder). If the fluid does not drain right away, you may have to pump the pedal a few strokes, leaving it in the up position. After 10 or 20 seconds, clear fluid without air bubble appears at the output of the nipple. When this happens, the line has been purged of air. At that point, just tighten the bleed nipple; the pedal should now feel firm and operational. That is all to it! There is no need for a second person pumping the pedal, no need for a special tool like a vaccuum pump.The back pressure of the fluid in the hose section immediately outside of the nipple keeps the air not coming back into the slave cylinder. Years ago, when doing a brake line air bleeding, I needed help from either my wife or kids to do the brake/clutch pedal pumping with a lot of yelling (by me) and whining (by kids); nowadays, it is a one man task.

Aisin is worth the extra $. I bought and installed the cheaper one, squeaked And nothing but problems.

I've owned my truck for about 25 years and drive in a lot of stop and go traffic. I've had to replace this clutch master cylinder several times. Never had been able to find one with a yoke that would fit through the fire wall on my truck. I'd end up mounting the master cylinder and then crawling under the dash to connect the yoke. This doesn't sound like a big deal, but the older I get the more difficult this becomes. This unit fits like it is suppose to fit. Yoke can be locked down before you mount the master cylinder. I'm not sure what else is different, but I have better clutch control and pedal travel than I've ever had in 300,000 miles.

Just like OEM = easy install.

Work perfectly on my 1996 Toyota Tacoma. 2.4 5 speed . Fixed my sinking peddle issue

Fixed my busted master cylinder issue and was able to drive my truck again

OEM part. Perfect fit in my 1993 Toyota T100 w/ V6 3VZE engine.

Giving a one star right now. Just ordered another one. The threads where not cut right. The flare nut would not grab and when I finally got it to start threading there was too much resistance. Ran it down a couple of turns and backed it out to see what was going on and it looks like the threads where cut too sharp. Kinda sucks because this was supposed to be the better brand.

OEM for Toyota. The part fit perfectly and performed flawlessly. Very easy to install, I also replaced the space cylinder at the same time. After bleeding the system the clutch worked just like new. I always try to buy OEM parts when possible. 346,000 KM on my 1995 Toyota and it still drives like new.