---
product_id: 80259104
title: "BCQLI 10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper"
brand: "bcqli"
price: "5.97 OMR"
currency: OMR
in_stock: false
reviews_count: 8
category: "Bcqli"
url: https://www.desertcart.com.om/products/80259104-bcqli-10-pcb-circuit-board-thermal-transfer-paper-a4-size
store_origin: OM
region: Oman
---

# A4 size precision Glossy side for flawless transfer Laser printer optimized BCQLI 10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper

**Brand:** bcqli
**Price:** 5.97 OMR
**Availability:** ❌ Out of Stock

## Summary

> ⚡ Transfer your PCB designs like a pro — flawless, fast, and fab!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** BCQLI 10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper by bcqli
- **How much does it cost?** 5.97 OMR with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Currently out of stock
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.com.om](https://www.desertcart.com.om/products/80259104-bcqli-10-pcb-circuit-board-thermal-transfer-paper-a4-size)

## Best For

- bcqli enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted bcqli brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **DIY PCB Mastery:** Ideal for professionals crafting custom circuit boards with ease
- • **Precision A4 Format:** Perfectly sized sheets for detailed PCB layouts
- • **Glossy Side Transfer:** Ensures clean, sharp toner transfer every time
- • **Cost-Effective Innovation:** Affordable alternative to premium transfer papers without sacrificing quality
- • **Laser Printer Compatibility:** Optimized for crisp, high-resolution prints

## Overview

The BCQLI 10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper offers 10 A4-sized sheets designed specifically for laser printers, featuring a glossy side that guarantees precise toner transfer onto PCBs. Perfect for DIY electronics enthusiasts and professionals alike, it provides a budget-friendly yet reliable solution for creating custom circuit boards with sharp, clean lines.

## Description

desertcart.com: BCQLI 10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper : Office Products

Review: Inexpensive alternative to blue transfer paper - I'm experienced with the "Press-n-Peel" blue transfer paper, but thought I would give this stuff a try. Making good PCBs with fine lines takes some practice and proper prep which I thought I would share here. First, the blue press-n-peel has the advantage of transferring an additional protective layer on your PCB when you iron it on. The blue stuff sticks to the toner, and when the transfer is done, your pcb traces will not only have the toner on them, but the blue stuff. This yellow transfer paper simply makes it where the toner is easily transferred off of the paper onto the pcb. I didn't have a problem with this, but I also haven't done any super fine lines yet. With the blue stuff, I can go down to about 10 mil without a problem. With either method, I'd like to explain my process: First, do yourself a favor and make your traces as large as you can if you have the space. There's no point trying to run 10 mil or less if you don't need to, and give yourself some clearance between traces and other pads. For general purpose stuff where I have plenty of room, I run 25 mil traces unless I need to go between some IC pads. I plug in my iron to let it start heating up. I also use Ferric Chloride for etch, and I also have a cheap stirring/hot plate and get it up to 125F. Trying to etch at 70F takes FOREVER. I found that 120-130F works great and I can etch a board in about 2-3 minutes. Hotter than 130F and fumes start to come off the FeCl. I 3d printed an "insert" into the bottom of my glass pan which raises the board off the bottom and allows room for the little stirrer pill to spin. The stirring is great as you don't have to agitate the solution while etching. I use an infrared laser beam thing that you can get for about 50 bucks to monitor the temp but a simple thermometer would work too. Next I cut my board to size and I bevel the edges of the copper slightly with a file. I find that board right from the factor can have their edges slightly raised which makes it difficult to get pressure down near the edge when ironing on. Just a couple of strokes across the edge takes care of that. I then put on rubber gloves so I don't get oils on the board. I scrub the board in 4 directions with steel wool, then wipe the whole thing down with acetone. I then do a 15-30 second "pre-etch" in my etching solution (I use Ferric Chloride) of the entire blank board. I found the pre-etch allows the toner to stick SOOO much better to the copper. After the pre-etch I rinse the board in water and dry it off completely. For ironing, I use what can be described on desertcart as a "Sealing iron" or "hobby iron". It's smaller than a regular clothes iron, and an exact temperature can be set, and there are no holes in the surface of the iron. One thing you need to make sure is that the iron is DEAD FLAT. I did this by running it over finer and finer grits of sandpaper on a slat surface. You're essentially honing the bottom. I went down to 800 grid to make it really smooth. I also beveled one of the edges of the iron with a roundover so I can put additional pressure on a small area. I don't think you can get enough pressure with a standard clothes iron and get good results. I run the iron at 400F (200C). Make sure the iron is fully heated. When I print out my PCB I also include the edge cuts of the board so I can line it up properly to the copper board. I cut it so that I have some extra paper where I can tape the paper to the PCB, but I don't want to iron over this tape because you can't get enough heat and pressure for any traces under that tape. I then start with an overall heating, starting at the tape edge and moving the iron slowly to the edge which isn't taped down (I only tape along one edge). This gets me an initial "stick" to the board. Then I work again starting at the tape edge with additional pressure. Pretty much as much pressure as I can put on the iron while still moving it. I work from one side to the other. The whole ironing process takes maybe 60 seconds for a 2.75 x 4" board, which is what I use for most of my small projects (sometimes I cut that board in half for 2x2.75" if I can fit everything). Then, and a really important part, is that you must let the board cool down to room temp before peeling off, otherwise the toner can just peel right off the copper. I mean, let it cool COMPLETELY. It doesn't take long, 3-4 minutes. I do all this work in my woodshop and I have a table saw with a cast iron top which is absolutely freezing, so I throw it on there for a minute! Once completely cool, slowly peel the toner off. I had 100% complete success using this paper the first time using this method, but sometimes you might need to touch some spots up. You can use a sharpie to do that. If my board is complex with very fine lines, I'll usually have an enlarged printout of the board that I can use for reference and fix any issues. Ok, time for etching. The solution is now up to 120-130F and I put the board in it. I check every minute for progress and pull it out when done. I usually don't use ground planes in my board, so I remove a lot of copper but it will only takes a couple of minutes when the solution is warmed. I then rinse the board in the sink and examine it to make sure all copper is removed. If not, I'll throw it back in for 30 seconds. I then leave the toner on because it makes finding thru pads easier, and drill any necessary holes for the thru holes. I have a benchtop drill press and it works great. I put a piece of MDF under the board for support and have some cheap drills I bought here. The ones I have have a larger shaft and are much easier to use. You can hold the board up to a light to make sure you've drilled all necessary holes out. Don't forget mounting holes! I always use 3mm screws for mounting and drill out 3.5mm holes so I have some leeway. Finally, I scrub off the toner first with the steel wool, then clean up the rest with acetone. You CAN just use acetone, but I found when I do that the whole thing stains the rest of the board, so I try to get almost all of the toner off first with the steel wool. Hope this helps!
Review: Great for DIY PCB projects! - After trying multiple times different methods to transfer my designs onto the PCB I found this buy chance and it was a good luck strike because it does work with a very little touches from my part. You do need to play a bit with you Laser Printer settings because the paper is very thin, it took me 8 tries to find the right settings, but when I did, I was very happy with the results. So I would recommend this for DIY projects you get good quallity for the money.

## Features

- Circuit Board Transfer Paper. Size: A4 / Color: Yellow / Quantity: 10
- Make sure you use the glossy side for transfer
- Make sure you use a laser printer
- Worked fine after I figured out the process
- laser printer PCB layout transfer paper

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| Best Sellers Rank | #73,517 in Arts, Crafts & Sewing ( See Top 100 in Arts, Crafts & Sewing ) #313 in Transfer Paper |
| Customer Reviews | 4.2 out of 5 stars 328 Reviews |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** BCQLI
- **Color:** YELLOW
- **Item Weight:** 0.55 Kilograms
- **Paper Finish:** Coated, Embossed
- **Sheet Size:** A4

## Images

![BCQLI 10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/713e4Tv5LhL.jpg)
![BCQLI 10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71ML7uKJAXL.jpg)
![BCQLI 10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81fp5L-bzBL.jpg)
![BCQLI 10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71xBdAvDa5L.jpg)
![BCQLI 10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51WLruRzBgL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Number Of Items** options.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Inexpensive alternative to blue transfer paper
*by B***. on December 26, 2024*

I'm experienced with the "Press-n-Peel" blue transfer paper, but thought I would give this stuff a try. Making good PCBs with fine lines takes some practice and proper prep which I thought I would share here. First, the blue press-n-peel has the advantage of transferring an additional protective layer on your PCB when you iron it on. The blue stuff sticks to the toner, and when the transfer is done, your pcb traces will not only have the toner on them, but the blue stuff. This yellow transfer paper simply makes it where the toner is easily transferred off of the paper onto the pcb. I didn't have a problem with this, but I also haven't done any super fine lines yet. With the blue stuff, I can go down to about 10 mil without a problem. With either method, I'd like to explain my process: First, do yourself a favor and make your traces as large as you can if you have the space. There's no point trying to run 10 mil or less if you don't need to, and give yourself some clearance between traces and other pads. For general purpose stuff where I have plenty of room, I run 25 mil traces unless I need to go between some IC pads. I plug in my iron to let it start heating up. I also use Ferric Chloride for etch, and I also have a cheap stirring/hot plate and get it up to 125F. Trying to etch at 70F takes FOREVER. I found that 120-130F works great and I can etch a board in about 2-3 minutes. Hotter than 130F and fumes start to come off the FeCl. I 3d printed an "insert" into the bottom of my glass pan which raises the board off the bottom and allows room for the little stirrer pill to spin. The stirring is great as you don't have to agitate the solution while etching. I use an infrared laser beam thing that you can get for about 50 bucks to monitor the temp but a simple thermometer would work too. Next I cut my board to size and I bevel the edges of the copper slightly with a file. I find that board right from the factor can have their edges slightly raised which makes it difficult to get pressure down near the edge when ironing on. Just a couple of strokes across the edge takes care of that. I then put on rubber gloves so I don't get oils on the board. I scrub the board in 4 directions with steel wool, then wipe the whole thing down with acetone. I then do a 15-30 second "pre-etch" in my etching solution (I use Ferric Chloride) of the entire blank board. I found the pre-etch allows the toner to stick SOOO much better to the copper. After the pre-etch I rinse the board in water and dry it off completely. For ironing, I use what can be described on Amazon as a "Sealing iron" or "hobby iron". It's smaller than a regular clothes iron, and an exact temperature can be set, and there are no holes in the surface of the iron. One thing you need to make sure is that the iron is DEAD FLAT. I did this by running it over finer and finer grits of sandpaper on a slat surface. You're essentially honing the bottom. I went down to 800 grid to make it really smooth. I also beveled one of the edges of the iron with a roundover so I can put additional pressure on a small area. I don't think you can get enough pressure with a standard clothes iron and get good results. I run the iron at 400F (200C). Make sure the iron is fully heated. When I print out my PCB I also include the edge cuts of the board so I can line it up properly to the copper board. I cut it so that I have some extra paper where I can tape the paper to the PCB, but I don't want to iron over this tape because you can't get enough heat and pressure for any traces under that tape. I then start with an overall heating, starting at the tape edge and moving the iron slowly to the edge which isn't taped down (I only tape along one edge). This gets me an initial "stick" to the board. Then I work again starting at the tape edge with additional pressure. Pretty much as much pressure as I can put on the iron while still moving it. I work from one side to the other. The whole ironing process takes maybe 60 seconds for a 2.75 x 4" board, which is what I use for most of my small projects (sometimes I cut that board in half for 2x2.75" if I can fit everything). Then, and a really important part, is that you must let the board cool down to room temp before peeling off, otherwise the toner can just peel right off the copper. I mean, let it cool COMPLETELY. It doesn't take long, 3-4 minutes. I do all this work in my woodshop and I have a table saw with a cast iron top which is absolutely freezing, so I throw it on there for a minute! Once completely cool, slowly peel the toner off. I had 100% complete success using this paper the first time using this method, but sometimes you might need to touch some spots up. You can use a sharpie to do that. If my board is complex with very fine lines, I'll usually have an enlarged printout of the board that I can use for reference and fix any issues. Ok, time for etching. The solution is now up to 120-130F and I put the board in it. I check every minute for progress and pull it out when done. I usually don't use ground planes in my board, so I remove a lot of copper but it will only takes a couple of minutes when the solution is warmed. I then rinse the board in the sink and examine it to make sure all copper is removed. If not, I'll throw it back in for 30 seconds. I then leave the toner on because it makes finding thru pads easier, and drill any necessary holes for the thru holes. I have a benchtop drill press and it works great. I put a piece of MDF under the board for support and have some cheap drills I bought here. The ones I have have a larger shaft and are much easier to use. You can hold the board up to a light to make sure you've drilled all necessary holes out. Don't forget mounting holes! I always use 3mm screws for mounting and drill out 3.5mm holes so I have some leeway. Finally, I scrub off the toner first with the steel wool, then clean up the rest with acetone. You CAN just use acetone, but I found when I do that the whole thing stains the rest of the board, so I try to get almost all of the toner off first with the steel wool. Hope this helps!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great for DIY PCB projects!
*by V***M on February 1, 2026*

After trying multiple times different methods to transfer my designs onto the PCB I found this buy chance and it was a good luck strike because it does work with a very little touches from my part. You do need to play a bit with you Laser Printer settings because the paper is very thin, it took me 8 tries to find the right settings, but when I did, I was very happy with the results. So I would recommend this for DIY projects you get good quallity for the money.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Work well, but the paper can get jammed in printer easily
*by E***D on October 26, 2022*

This paper works spectacularly well for toner transfer. The only downside is that it naturally wants to curl up and is hard to feed into the printer (thought the current batch I have is less problematic). If it is wanting to curls the edges on you, the best trick i have found is to fold the leading edge about 1/4". That helps it feed straight into the printer.

## Frequently Bought Together

- BCQLI 100 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper
- MG Chemicals 415-1L Ferric Chloride, 1 Quart
- MCIGICM FR-4 Copper Clad PCB Laminate Circuit Board, Single Side, 4 x 2.7 inch (10Pcs)

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*Product available on Desertcart Oman*
*Store origin: OM*
*Last updated: 2026-02-24*