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🛠️ Protect your wood, perfect your space—fast, flawless, and fuss-free!
Varathane 200241H Water-Based Ultimate Polyurethane is a fast-drying, satin-finish wood protector designed for indoor use. It offers up to 125 sq. ft. coverage per quart, outstanding stain and scratch resistance, and easy soap-and-water cleanup, making it ideal for furniture, cabinets, and trim.
Coverage | 125 sq. ft. |
Recommended Uses For Product | interior |
Liquid Volume | 32 Fluid Ounces |
Item Form | Liquid |
Global Trade Identification Number | 00026748200243 |
Manufacturer | Rust-Oleum |
UPC | 026748200243 |
Part Number | 200241H |
Item Weight | 2.25 pounds |
Product Dimensions | 5 x 5 x 5 inches |
Country of Origin | USA |
Item model number | 200241H |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Size | Quart (Pack of 1) |
Color | Satin |
Style | Satin |
Finish | Satin |
Pattern | Brush |
Shape | Triangle |
Item Package Quantity | 1 |
Usage | Inside |
Included Components | 1-Quart Wood Finish |
Batteries Included? | No |
Batteries Required? | No |
Warranty Description | Satisfaction Guaranteed |
C**O
great for floors, for drawers and shelving, and for animal cages
I have used this varnish for several applications, three of which I'll describe here.I've been varnishing my rat cage with this stuff for 20 years. I made the cage myself out of an unfinished pine bookcase to which I attached pine-framed screen doors. I originally got the varnish on the suggestion of a Home Depot associate who said that it was non-toxic when dry, which is essential for small animals who would be sleeping on the varnish and who like to chew things.This varnish takes some heavy punishment. Although my rats use litterboxes, as soon as the boxes are a bit dirty they start using the corners of the cage instead. That means that there is often urine (and all sorts of foods, from fruit to oatmeal to gravy) drying on and sticking to the varnish. This is not a problem for the varnish: it cleans right up with water and a damp paper towel. But to really clean the cage, I spray isopropyl alcohol on it every five to seven days and scrub with a towel. After about 2 or 3 years of this abuse, the varnish starts to wear thin in places and needs recoating. I never follow the directions, which say that I have to sand the existing varnish before recoating. I just thoroughly clean and dry the shelves and then paint on a couple more coats. I have never had the varnish flake or scratch under these conditions.I live in a very old house whose demise is imminent, so remodeling is always on-demand and slap-dash. Recently I had to get rid of some old carpet. In one room, the floor was literally nothing but bare plywood with lots of paint drips and plaster from earlier room remodeling. In the other room, there was a pretty parquet wood floor, which had been ruined by a VERY thorough application of carpet glue in ridges about 1/6in to 1/8in high. The house is not going to be standing much longer, so to get through the remaining 3 years I decided to use polyurethane--it was good enough for the rats, so why not for me?Last year, for the first room with plywood, I mostly followed the directions, which say to use a brush and make small strokes. This is supposed to avoid bubbling. I applied two coats without sanding in between. The results were outstanding: the splashes of paint and plaster on dark plywood under the high-gloss varnish give the room a sort of shabby industrial chic. I've single-handedly scooted the heavy (high efficiency) washing machine back and forth several times over the varnish and it didn't scratch, even in the places with raised blobs of paint or plaster underneath. It's been a year and even the high traffic spots between doors and the areas that get year-round sun look like they were just painted.This year I had to uncover that parquet floor with the glue on it. This room gets much less traffic (bedroom), so I cared a lot less about the paint bubbling. And I was in a big hurry to get it done. Painting a floor with a brush is not my idea of a fun home project. I decided to do what is absolutely forbidden by the instructions: use a foam roller to apply the varnish, right over the lines of glue, and over the mysterious 7-inch-wide bands of duct tape that ran across middle of the room. (Did not want to find out what was under that tape!) Because the glue lines were so high, I put down 4 coats of this very thin polyurethane varnish instead of just 2, so that I could more easily dust-mop the room. Again, fabulous results. I cannot find a single bubble in the paint, despite having hurriedly used a roller for all 4 coats. The varnish is adhering just fine to the duct tape; I think the tape will peel up before the varnish comes off it. The rough, scratchy ridges of glue are now smooth and comfortable to walk on. I like to think of the glue as a feature: no-slip flooring for when I wear slippery socks.I really liked using the roller to apply the paint. It's easy to see where you've just painted because the roller makes a much cloudier application than a brush, but still dries crystal clear.I care for my flooring much better than the rats care for theirs, so by the time this varnish starts to show wear, this house will have been demolished.The third application for this varnish is as a top coating over primer. On built-in shelving and inside drawers in this house, I have applied Kilz white mold-inhibiting primer, because a roof leak caused a mold problem. After fixing the roof, I spray treated all the drawers with a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and grapeseed extract, then applied Kilz primer. I would have been happy to leave it at that, but primer is a terrible surface to deal with, sort of powdery in texture, impossible to slide anything like clothing on it. I haven't found any normal paints to be good for shelving, probably due to the humidity in this region--everything sticks to the paint and it gets peeled off the shelves. So, given the great results with the rat cage, I decided to try varathane. On top of the single coat of Kilz, I applied a single coat of varathane. All problems solved. The mold has not returned after 6 years, and the surfaces of the drawers and shelves are still shiny and slick. EXCELLENT product.
Z**B
Perfect finish
Love the finish of this matte poly. It went on smooth and dried nicely. I was regretting the paint color chosen, but once I had the matte poly on, it really brought everything together. It grounded the highs and lows of the gloss paint finish. I would definitely use again.
D**D
Easy to Use
Can get a larger can at Home Depot; this can is very small.That being said, great product! Several years ago, upon painting my kitchen cabinets, I tried sealing them, only to make a huge mess, requiring me to sand them down and start over. The sealer I was using was too thick and dried too quickly.I needed to resurface my coffee table as the original finish had become compromised and sticky. I sanded, painted, and was going to leave it as is, aware it would be easily scratched.I saw the reviews and decided to give this a try. Game changer! So easy to apply! I thinned it with a few drops of water, but I’m not sure that was necessary.I figured it would dry with steaks, showing roller marks. Nope! It dried beautifully! I went back and used it to seal the kitchen cabinets beneath my sink, and to touch up the bathroom cabinets. I ran to Home Depot to get the bigger can as I have some other projects, and won’t use anything else.
R**3
No smell. Applies easy
No smell applies easy water cleanupI did three thin coats. The first coat absorbs a lot just like any polyurethane. I used gloss. It’s not as glossy as traditional polyurethane. IMO if I would sand one more time and put a final coat a little heavy I would give it a 5 star. I’ll buy more of it. My project was 400 square ft(3 walls) I ordered two cans. I have 1/2 can left. I applied after the walls were up. Took me about an hour by myself for each coat. About 1/2 hour with three coats. Easy application and no runs. Dried in about 1/2 hour to 45 min
E**A
Nice but small
Nice but small 😁
T**.
Goes on easily, celans up easily and looks good
This is a great polyurethane. The only minor issue is the depth of wood grain change. All water based urethanes and coatings seem to have the problem, wiping solvent on shows deep, rich grain, wiping oil on shows even deeper 9hence the "French Polish"). The water based don't bring out the depth of color as much.After discovering the weaker grain visibility (which may be a bonus for some people and applications), I put down a coat of shellac sealer with a disposable cotton pad, which is alcohol based which brings out the grain very nicely and also dries quickly. Once the sealer is down, i put polyurethane over it and there are no incompatibility issues so I get the depth of an oiled finish with the ease of water cleanup, and the water cleanup is the most important aspect.Excellent product and I use the triple thick version of this with even faster great results using same sealer preparation.
C**Y
Covers good
Works great
R**T
Disappointed with Durability – Scratches Easily
While the Rust-Oleum 200261H Crystal Clear Varathane Water-Based Interior Polyurethane went on smoothly and dried with no streaks, I was disappointed by how easily it scratches. I followed the instructions carefully and had no issues during application, but after just a short period of use, I noticed visible scratches on the surface. For a product that’s meant to protect, I expected much more durability. It’s a good option for ease of application, but unfortunately, the lack of long-term durability makes it hard to recommend.
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