🚽 Upgrade your flush game with flawless performance!
The American Standard 7301111-0070A Flush Valve Seal Kit is a durable, clear rubber replacement part designed specifically for Champion toilets. With a precise 0.09-inch thickness, it ensures reliable flushing performance and easy installation, backed by a limited one-year warranty.
Brand | American Standard |
Material | Rubber |
Item Thickness | 0.09 Inches |
Color | Clear |
UPC | 754262076951 705020171869 012611410444 |
Manufacturer | American Standard |
Unit Count | 1.0 Count |
Global Trade Identification Number | 00012611410444 |
Part Number | 7301111-0070A |
Item Weight | 0.01 ounces |
Product Dimensions | 22.5 x 17.5 x 13.5 inches |
Item model number | 7301111-0070A |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Item Package Quantity | 1 |
Batteries Included? | No |
Batteries Required? | No |
Warranty Description | Limited One Year |
R**D
American Standard "Champion" Toilet, "Flush Valve Seal Kit"
I noticed my American Standard “Champion“ Toilet was making refilling sounds and some flushes had little power. This meant the water was leaking from the reservoir and getting re-filled every so often.Before looking on Amazon for replacement parts, I searched online for instruction videos.I found several good ones advising that a new—American Standard “flush valve seal”—would probably solve this problem. The videos also told us to buy the American Standard brand seals, because they’re the best quality and don’t need to be replaced so frequently.From the videos I watched—it seemed that even a bonehead like me—could easily replace the old, worn-out seal with this new one. One of the first things to do—once you’re working inside the toilet—is to unscrew the small piece attaching the flush valve to the toilet handle.In the videos I watched, each demonstrator easily unscrewed this with their thumb and first finger. After that they could lift out the parts holding the seal in place. Then all you had to do was remove the old seal and replace it. There’s also a small O-ring that comes with this seal. That goes on the part that was unscrewed in the previous step.Once you put the new seal in place and insert that part back into the appropriate spot—you re-screw the top part back on and you’re good to go. Almost…I probably should’ve looked on Amazon before I searched online for videos. Then I could’ve read a good review warning us about something.Anyway, today (7-26-23) I tried my luck.However, I couldn’t even budge that damn, top screw with my bare thumb and finger. It’s just a tiny handle you need to turn. It didn’t look very sturdy and I was afraid I’d break something plastic if I applied too much force.If I couldn’t get this loose, I couldn’t replace the seal. If I broke it—I’d need to buy a whole, new assembly piece. Maybe this task isn't simple enough for a bonehead after all.I retrieved a small, needle nose pliers—a small, regular pliers—and a small, crescent wrench.I decided to use the regular pliers first and fortunately—I was able to get enough grip to turn the top and unscrew it without breaking anything. The rest of the job went smoothly and my toilet is now resting quietly and flushing power is back to normal.
S**E
My Water Must Be Better…
After 11.5 years (when my new toilet was installed) I caught it topping off (ghost flushing) every 5-6 hours or so. I tried running my fingers around the gasket seal edges, but no change, so I ordered this repair kit and installed it within a couple of days of receiving it. It topped off one more time about 15 minutes after I was done, but it hadn’t been flushed since refilling the tank. After flushing it, it hasn’t topped off again!This is the correct kit for either the old or new versions of Champion toilets. Instructions are included for both types and it’s easy to tell the difference between them. The instructions are clear, but assume at least some familiarity with what you are attempting to do. The new gasket is clear and translucent, apart from that it appears identical to the original blue one I removed. The injection molding point and a batch number (I assume) on one side are no where near where the gasket seals, so it doesn’t matter which side is “up”. The instructions make no mention of orientation; it isn’t important! Replace the included small red o-ring as well (if applicable) as it could also be leaking. One thing not mentioned, but I believe to be important. Rinse all sealing edges (that make direct contact with the new gasket and o-ring) by running a wet finger along them (including the inner surface of the conical hole that the o-ring seats in.) If that’s not possible, rinse with running water (mostly applies to the groove that the o-ring seats in.) Only use sealant if necessary, but be aware that this is likely because there is some damage along the edge of the sealing surface.My old gasket looks “old”, but exhibits no signs of the problems mentioned by others (primarily “bubbles” filled with water that resulted in the loss of a good seal.)The “new and improved” refill hose clip solved the only issue that I’d had with this toilet prior to this. The small cotter pin clip that secures the pull chain to the flush lever would sometimes hang up on the fill hose, leaving the flush valve open until it was disengaged. The new refill hose clip moves the hose up and back, allowing for ample clearance between it and flush lever cotter pin. Problem solved!I’ve included photos of the front and back sides of the 11.5 year old original gasket and o-ring that I removed.
G**N
Exact Fit and Easy Replacement
This flapper seal for an American Standard toilet was an easy fix for the factory original that had developed a small blister and seeped endlessly. It came quickly and in good shape.The repair took about ten minutes and resulted in a quiet toilet that performed as advertised. The price was right and it fit with no fuss.
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