Monroe Monro-Matic Plus 32330 Suspension Shock Absorber for Ford Ranger

Been shopping around and finally got a good enough deal to purchase. Shipped very quickly, packaged well, excellent price compared to everywhere else I shopped around at.

replaced my song rangers OEM parts with these works great and install was easy

Fully restored the ride and handling. These shocks provide a good ride that is comfortable and not harsh.

Fit front on my my '98 Ranger with coil spring front end. Seemed a little shorter than the previous Monroe shocks I removed. Fits as it should and works. No more swaying front end.Update April 2014: I did an oil change on my truck 2 weeks ago and noticed oil leaking from the drivers side shock absorber. This is the shortest life (Aug 2013-Mar 2014) I have ever noted for a Monroe product. There does not appear to be any warranty on the Monro-Matic Plus line. How sad; the yellow monroe shocks I had on before lasted several years. Time to go elsewhere.

Monroe 32330 on the fronts.Pull off lug nut covers.Jack front end of truck up with floor jack.Put two jack stands under front.Impact wrench off all the front wheel lug nuts and remove front wheels.Lift up on the wheelwell apron. It's like a curtain you can lift up, you don't have to remove it or any screws or anything.Spray top nut and two bottom nuts of each old shock with Liquid Wrench. A small wire brush can be used to clean up the threads above the top nut to make removal easier.Remove top nut of old shock (one came off in 20 seconds, the other needed to be grinded on with a wheel cutter to heat it up and removed in stages). The top of the shock's threaded rod needed to be held to keep from turning with a pair of Vise Grips. THESE SHOCKS CAME WITH TWO NEW TOP NUTS.Carefully remove the bottom two nuts. You have to REUSE the bottom two nuts for each side. You also don't want to break the stud they're on. Go slow, lots of liquid wrench.Once the top nut and bottom two nuts are off, reach in between the big spring with a pair of channel locks and lift up on the old shock so you can jiggle it loose and then remove it by dropping it down. CAREFUL: mine came apart in two pieces and spilled hydraulic fluid out.Make sure to remove the old rubber parts: a rubber cone and a rubber hockey puck with a cone-shaped hole in it. You won't reuse these.Place one of the big metal washers and a new hockey puck rubber thing on the new shock and feed it up into the assembly.Put on the two old bottom nuts. Maybe use some Loctite here.Put the new top hockey puck rubber thing and other metal washer onto the top threaded rod of the new shock.You will probably notice that there isn't enough threads to start the NEW top nut. This is the reason for the jack stands: put the floor jack under the assembly and raise it up enough so that enough of the threaded rod of the new shock sticks up above the new top hockey puck rubber thing so you can actually start the new top nut.Tighten the new top nut.Top nut (on my truck) was 15-21 foot pound; bottom two were 30-41 foot pounds. Check YOUR truck specs before doing and use a torque wrench. A large old style torque wrench needed a deep socket and some extensions to be able to turn and not hit the brake lines on the driver's side when tightening the top nut. Passenger side has plenty of room.Lower the floor jack and replace the wheel and lug nuts.Gathering the tools, jacking up the truck, jack stands, taking off both wheels and doing the driver's side with trying to heat/cut off the old top nut (which has brake lines running in the area you have to be careful of) took about 1.5 hours.The passenger side took about 15 minutes, LOL!As always, spray Liquid Wrench BEFORE you start gathering all the other tools. The longer a part is soaking in the Liquid Wrench the longer it will penetrate and the easier things (might) be.Click on my name in this review (Michael Logusz) and you can search my older reviews and find the one about how to do the REAR shocks on a Ranger. I did those last year around August 30th of 2017.The photo of my black Ranger just shows the new bed tool box I just got off here, it was taken BEFORE these front shocks went on. After getting these fronts on there is a LOT less clanking noise on the front end while driving. If I slam on my brakes at a stops sign the truck no longer jiggles back and forth, back and forth, back and forth. It leans forward a little and then freezes. NICE!Good luck, remember the parking brake and be careful out there.Mike from Detroit

These are a good value and seem to work fine. The supplied hardware and bushings are not as nice as the OEM shocks. They seem to have about the right amount of damping without being too harsh or too soft at least on a 2 wheel drive 4 cylinder truck. On a heavier truck they might be under-damped. Installation is easy enough except for getting the top nut off the old shocks where you have to stop the shaft from turning with vice grips. If you live where they salt the roads it might be much more difficult. I'm not sure how long they'll last.

Im rating these before i installed them. Easy install, no directions though i don't need them, other people might.

Replaced the 5ish year old Monroe shocks on my ‘07 Ford Ranger with new Monroe’s. She is a pavement queen and rarely sees any off-roading, if at all. I only have maybe 100 miles on them and on the new front suspension, otherwise the ride is smooth and well controlled, if a bit on the soft side.