POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating — Non-Porous Protective Barrier, 4 fl oz, Gloss Black, Pack of 6

Highly recommend. Worked well on duramax frame. Looks great too. Easy to apply with paint brushes. Covered the entire frame with some left over. Very impressed.

I have two lally columns in my garage that sweat in warm, humid weather since they cool off at night then attract condensation as the warm moist air gets in the garage when the doors are open. Water + steel = rust. I epoxied my garage floor, and pretty soon had rust stains in the epoxy from the columns. Grrr. The columns are a good 60+ years old, so pretty pitted.I hit them with a wire brush, then realized 80 grit sandpaper was a lot faster on the curved surface, and took off a fair amount of rust. I ended up getting the surface smoother than I had thought which became apparent as I applied this product. The product itself is thinner than latex paint, but a little thicker than water, so you have to be careful about drips. It spreads very well. I used less than 1/2 a 1 pint can to do two coats on the two lally columns. There were a couple spots where it initially covered, but didn't adhere, sort of like how water won't adhere to oil spots. I just went over those spots, working it in, and eventually it covered and adhered.The instructions say minimum two coats and I agree, if only to make sure you get full coverage. I waited 3 hours before putting on the second coat. The first coat was a mix of slightly tacky to very tacky, so I probably could have left it another hour or so. Interestingly, I didn't want to go through two brushes, so I left the leftover product from the first coat in the paint bucket I was using, with the brush in the product/not exposed to air, and the whole thing sat while I waited for the first coat to dry. This is not how the manufacturer recommends you do it. The remaining product in the paint bucket had thickened slightly, and so went on a bit thicker, but it still went on and spread, but much thicker. For my purpose, thicker is probably OK. It seemed to adhere just fine.This stuff levels like a dream - even with the second coat being thick, each pass left brush marks which quickly leveled out to perfectly smooth. The resulting finish was perfectly semi-gloss (like a text book definition of semi-gloss) and very, very smooth. I thought I'd just get the rust covered, and be stuck with the pitting of the old columns, but between the sanding and the superior leveling, the columns look amazing. Much better than I expected.For clean up, I found I could wipe up drops off the epoxy floor if I got to them quickly, and it all came up. I did get a drop on my face, looked like a Cindy Crawford mole, was probably on for 20 mins until my wife passed by and pointed it out. Aggressive scraping with a nail and soapy water took it off with some resulting abrasion of the skin but not bad. I did wear gloves as I painted.This is now my go-to coating for metal products with the potential to rust.

Please READ!!! Save yourself and UNDERSTAND!!! This product is AMAZING!!! First off painting anything is all about PREP work! Everything must sanded/scuffed, cleaned, degreased, washed off with water, dry, decent weather conditions if your outside, your work should be taped off, covered in plastic or newspaper and follow the directions on the cans!My experience with these products…ALL 5 star!!The cleaner/degreaser *****The cleaner isn’t some harsh chemicals that burns your hands! It doesn’t smell and works amazing! Get a spray bottle and light scrub brush and scrub your work area. Dilute it with water 4:1.The metal prep/rust inhibitor *****If your work piece has rust USE THIS! After sanding/cleaning the area and washing it off use this. It will take light rust (that maybe you couldn’t sand all of it away) and chemically breakdown the “rust” properties turning it back into its original metal state. Which then is a paintable clean surface. Listen Peoples, rust is like a cancer, ither cut it out, put in replacement metal or use this, and FOLLOW directions!!! It works!!! Read the DIRECTIONS!!The Por-15 paint*****The BEST PAINT!!!This paint is some serious stuff! It gets rock hard! KEEP THE CAN AND LID PERFECTLY CLEAN, the lid will seal itself shut if there’s ANY PAINT ON THE RIM!!! (That’s why they sell 6packs of small cans) and don’t paint outta the can, poor into something else. Stir the cans!!!! There’s 3/8inch chemicals at the bottom of the can of you don’t stir you’ll hit the bottom and be like”ohhhh what’s this”, oppps!!!! This paint will harden like steel it’s AMAZING STUFF!!! It’s like epoxy, but thinner.(the longer the can is exposed to the air/open the thicker it gets fast!!) When you use this paint you gotta be quick, in a rhythm and can’t stop. At this point everything should be ready for paint. If your using the topcoat paint as well, the topcoat goes on BEST RATE after this drys to “finger drag”. Meaning when you touch the painted surface it doesn’t stick to your finger, and you can drag your finger over it without removing any paint. Once at this point topcoat it RATE AWAY! Don’t wait because you’ll have to sand it, the topcoat adheres BEST when the por-15 paint is finger drag. The topcoat fills in all the imperfections the paint missed. BE heavy, don’t stretch these paints out, (small roller works the best) The topcoat smooths everything to a beautiful finish. THE PAINT AND TOPCOAT ARE NOT THE SAME!!!! They are totally different!!!!!! If you use the topcoat only that’s fine I guess but it’s no WAY near protected unless you use the Por-15 paint then topcoat. The paint hardens like steel, the topcoat does not harden the same way!!!! They are totally different!!! Yes it dries, but it’s just different. It says DTM on the can(directly to metal) and I’m sure you can only use the topcoat but if you want SERIOUS protection USE THE PAINT and TOPCOAT. If your only using one of them I would choose the paint over the topcoat.I restored a truck frame using these products. It’s very time consuming, and prep work!!! But WOW IT WORKED FLAWLESSLY AND WAS WORTH THE TIME!!! If you buy a can and paint over a completely rusted out item without prepping it, don’t expect a miracle. That paint hardens so hard the metal will probably dissolve and the POR paint will be holding it together it’s that strong lol. The people reading this will understand…Por-15 actually surprised me!!! I always usedRust oleum, which is good stuff but I’m a POR believer!!! There stuff is pro!!! I didn’t get a chance to use the primer, but again the key is after painting the rust protection paint, finger drag and topcoat heavy rate away and it’s smooth like butter…YOU DONT HAVE TO SPRAY IT, if you do my research says get POR15 solvent!!! CHEERS! good luck!!!

Showed up quick and sprayed on evenly. Only time will tell how well it works to defeat rust and metal decay.

A bit pricey but great product! Wear gloves or you will have this black tar like paint on your hands for weeks! No joke, nothing removes it… I tried everything! Drum fast, adheres exceptionally well! Shinny. I thought it would be mat black.

This is the premium undercoating treatment. But be sure to invest in full length gloves and a full body suit. If this stuff gets on your skin or clothes it will not come off! My arms and hands were covered black for over a week until pumice soap finally got the best of it (mostly...). I needed one quart per side, and another quart for the back and underside of my truck. Expensive, but your won't be sorry

I have known about POR 15 for many years now and have seen cars with this product used and have been impressed. I started my first car restoration a couple of years back, (1974 Datsun 260Z) and decided to use POR 15 more as a rust prevention agent after media blasting in places like inside the doors, cowl, and rear hatch hinge tunnels. These were all places that will not necessarily be seen and just wanted to take an extra precautionary action since these cars love rust.This stuff brushes on very well and I like how thin it is...it's almost like brushing on oil which was perfect for getting deep inside the pinch welds of the doors along the bottom as well as between spot welded supports inside cowl. It also drys to the touch very quickly and fully cures quickly leaving a nice durable finish.Overall I'm pleased with my experience with this stuff and the reaults I have seen with other peoples projects over the years using this stuff. Hopfully it will keep my Z protected for many years ahead.

I just got a used 48" mower deck for a 'vintage' Wheel Horse lawn tractor circa 1991 - it was in amazing condition except for (obviously) the blade compartment. I decided it was worth the work - it really wasn't that bad except for surface scaly rust and attached grass and the topside looked like new with original paint/belts. This isn't just for car restoration.I found POR-15 with great reviews on Amazon and decided to also get the rust remover/stabilizer. I first bought an inexpensive angle grinder from Harbor Freight (7amp minimum recommended by me) with requisite wire brushes. Three passes and most of the red flaky rust was gone and down to 'black oxide'. About half had shallow pitting but most of the metal thickness was intact. I then applied the metal prep as directed and it turned remaining rust in pits/etc. to a grey-white along with non-rusted areas. You could wipe some of this off on the surface after it dried and I decided to wipe down the entire area to smooth things out.Then came the Gloss Black rust preventive paint - I didn't use any other primer. Two coats with a brush only (larger projects need roller) and I'm amazed - it did indeed dry to a rock-hard finish and brushed on easily - including the rusted caps on the spindle shafts below the blades - the more I began using the more places I found to use it on. The finish really looked great.Now my experience tips many stated elsewhere. MUST have well-ventilated area - like outside for me on a sunny day. If you get it on you it's not coming off until nature dictates so you have to be careful and prepared. There's plenty of time before it sets up so there's no rush. I didn't feel any need to wear a body suit - perhaps on larger projects as others suggest or if you're really sloppy.My two pearls of wisdom having pre-read the other comments about not getting it on the lip of the can and being impossible to open (I can tell this would be correct). I bought a pack of 30ml plastic syringes (from China) thru eBay that are just like medical syringes - you can get larger ones if you need more. Open the can (carefully sitting on flat surface) and put the syringe vertically in the center of the liquid away from the edges and draw up however much you need - it's fairly viscous and requires some effort in pulling and DON'T pull it out - I could do it with thumb and index fingers holding the syringe and other fingers pulling it up. In your other hand hold a paper towel - once the stuff is pulled up lift it above the top of the liquid, let it drip a couple of times, and then bring the paper towel under it to catch any loose drops. This prevented any from getting into the lid groove of the can. I then squirted it into a standard paint roller-type pan with throw-away inserts and dipped brush into (or roller if you choose) and paint away. I also dumped the extra back into the can when finished very carefully. It was ridiculously easy and the can sealed like new and re-opened like new. My arms and fingers weren't too black when done :-) The syringe worked for repeated adding into the roller pan (about 4-5 times).Throw away the brush (or roller), the syringe, the pan insert, and anything else disposable because they'll be rock hard and unuseable again. I thank others for posting comments about this product - it's really fabulous and I can't imagine ever having to revisit this deck for decades. It's that good with a hard as a rock finish. I also found myself touching up a rusty metal rail on our patio and other things and intend to use it a lot more than I anticipated. For those small time users like me asking 'how much do I need' the answer is less than you'd think. This entire deck project used less than 1/4 of the quart (most is left) with two coats. This is why you need to preserve the can lid function - most is still there for other projects and I can think of plenty.Hope this helps - highly recommended!!!

Very surprising product. 10/10 when applied with a $2 dollar store roller.

My hubby bought this product for his boat and car. You can paint anything and it stops the rust. He thoroughly recommended this product.

If you want permanent rust proofing then this is the only product out there worth buying, It sets like porcelain and rust will not come back.I have restored a vintage Ferrari with this stuff, a fiat 500 and even coated my old cast drain pipes with it.Use metal prep solution first from por15 before you use this and take care not to get it on your skin as thinners or paint stripper will not remove it and it goes a very long way.I can definitely vouch for this product and I live in Scotland near the se where it rains most of the time.I wouldn't use anything else as rust proofing goes as this is the best there is.

This paint is amazing for vehicle under body painting, after rust removal. This little tin goes a very long way. Just try not to get it on your skin as it takes a very long time to remove. I’ve now bought 2 tins and will be buying a 3rd in the spring.I also used it to paint my iron drive gates, easy to apply and they look great. I think this paint will last for years on them.

this provided the best most solid deep rust fix i have ever used.It is very important to follow instructions very carefully but if you do that it works perfectly. I used my first one 5 years ago and the fix is still perfectly solid. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS to the letter