Rockford FosgateP3D2-10 Punch 10" P3 2-Ohm DVC Subwoofer

Did my research. Settled on this beauty. Maximum punch for a decent price. Solid, heavy duty construction. 500 watts rms but sounds great and really moves at only 200. Excellent sound quality right out the box with no wear-in. Made a home sound system out of this sub, two Rockford 165x3s, a Fosi BT30D Pro amplifier, and a 600 watt power supply. Sounds great. Satisfied with my purchase.

Excelente producto, la marca lo dice todo muy buena calidad en audio, bastante potencia con el amplificador adecuado y el cajón correcto un monstruo.

I have this sub mounted in the Bbox single 10" box on Amazon, driven by the RF Prime 500x1D amp, and THIS SUB POUNDS. PERIOD.Couple of tips:1. Make sure you're getting enough power to it. Going with the 500x1D RF amp is a good move (or another honest 500W+ amp at 2 ohms). Less power, and your signal will clip. It will handle a little too much power better than it will handle too little power. My RF 500X1D is certified to push 628W at 2 ohms through a 50 amp fuse, which is pretty much perfect for this sub. Match the amp to the sub, 80%-120% of the sub's RMS power capability. It has aluminum VCs and and aluminum cone. It sheds heat like you wouldn't believe. If you want to drive this with the RF 250 amp or something comparable (like any of the cheap mono block amps on Amazon that RMS ~200W-300W), please consider the P1/P2 subs. They are more efficient, lighter, and have less power requirements. They'll work well with smaller amps. This sub will not as it needs more power: it's heavy, not efficient for a 10", and has a VERY heavy motor structure that requires a lot of power to move it. Also, spend an extra $50 and get a good amp. There is no way a cheap amp is hitting 1000W with a 20-30 amp fuse. Do the math; it's impossible.2. Make sure the mounting board is at least 1" and the box is the proper size, ~ a little less than 1 cubic ft. I used the single 10" Bbox on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013N0UCQ/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), modified it by removing the clip terminals to handle bigger wire and caulked the whole thing including the sub for no leaks. WORTH THE EXTRA 5 MINS!!! No box resonance, which is important on a sub like this: the excursion is 1" or more, it's heavy, has a heavy motor structure, heavy cone assembly, and really just pounds. It needs stability to sound good.3. I'd suggest a sealed box over ported box. Sealed goes a bit lower in frequency, has a flatter response curve, and 10" subs tend to hit tight and quick, which sounds better in a sealed box anyway. You'll lose that flatness and quickness in a bigger sub, or a ported enclosure. If you are going for SPL, you'll likely not be choosing a single 10" anyway, but if you do, know that this is the best one I've heard if it's mounted/powered properly. With the over 600W RMS @ 2ohms I have going through it in a .79 cubic foot box, it hits as hard or harder than any dual 12"s I've owned up to now, including bandpass/ported enclosures, and more power. The key is the excursion: the 10" cone is smaller, but the throw is longer, so it still moves a LARGE quantity of air. The specs say it doesn't hit 10Hz, but I've tested it and in my sealed box with the RF500X1D pushing it at 2 ohms, it hits 10Hz (can't really hear it, but the sub is moving and I can feel it rattle my seats and ribcage) through 70Hz flat and clean and HARD. It's best between 20Hx-60Hz, which is exactly where you want a sub to be. And you can FEEL it knocking the wind out of you; not just hear it, although it sounds great and tight.TL;DR: Put enough power through it, seal it properly on a thick mounting board in the right sized sealed enclosure, and this sub will shame many 12"s, even dual 12" setups. Good, loud, tight, hard-hitting bass. It's unbelievable, and it's RF, so you know it will last. No regrets, it pounds, and I still have most of my tiny trunk left in my MINI S. Awesome!UPDATE: designed/built new custom box out of 1" MDF on all sides, to the exact volume RF recs in the instructions, and this thing hits even harder, which is unbelievable. It has also been playing trouble-free for a year now. I will be buying a 2nd one of these for my 4runner trail toy.

Great price, super fast shipping, undamaged and brand new, and I can't wait to break them in. Heard this sub in another build, and as far as value for the money goes, they are hard to beat. Powering with an Alpine PDR M65 at 2 ohms, and they hit hard for rock and metal which is all I really listen to. Sealed two chamber box, each braced and measuring at 0.61 cu. ft. just like Rockford suggests.

When I initially purchased this subwoofer, I planned on seeing if it would run on the factory amplifier in my car would run this ok. I ended up building a combination fiberglass/MDF enclosure that would put a large portion of the sub box in the side well of the trunk of my car. I was able to get about .6 cubic feet of space while only taking up a few inches of width from my trunk. Through googling around, the oem amp in my car was about 40 watts RMS. This was enough to run the sub ok. I did notice that I needed to increase the bass and subwoofer level on the head unit to get a balanced sound. The bottom line was that this sub needed more power, so I purchased a punch 300x1. I chose this amp for several reasons:1) The 300x1 did not require a remote turn on and was able to accept line level inputs up to 10v which meant integration to my factory stereo would be a snap.2) The 300x1 is class AB which should have a higher damping factor than a class D amp3) The 2 ohm power of the 300x1 was right in the sweet spot for this subwoofer.(around 450 watts)After installing the amp, this sub really shines. I believe it has a 16mm one-way xmax which is about 1.25" of excursion both directions. At full power, this sub moves air. I would estimate the SPL in the high 120s if you care about that sort of thing. Initially I did not add polyfill to the box and felt that it would play down to about 30hz at a decent level. After adding polyfill I think the sub will easily play down to 25hz or so now over 120db. I did notice that adding the polyfill did reduce the perceived loudness between 40-80hz somewhat.Subjectively, I would say this sub generally sounds good for most types of popular music. My music collection spans classical, to 80's and 90's hip hop, to 60s and 70s classic rock, to more recent indie/college radio pop. I have a record of some pipe organ that is rendered flawlessly at even the lowest registers and really makes the music visceral. Things with an 808 style kick are nice and fat and boomy(I always like to demo this sub with Beastie Boys Hold it now, Hit it). Another great track to demo this sub with is breathe/on the run on Pink Floyd Dark Side of the Moon. The synth/organ bass is a lot of fun to hear through this sub.That said, I don't think this sub is "perfect". This may be due to the sub having a somewhat heavy aluminum cone/voice coil, but the transient response is somewhat smeared. While you definitely "feel" a good kick drum, its not quite as punchy or clean as it should be. Some of this could be tuned to not be very noticeable, and I don't really think its a huge problem, but its definitely not the most transparent sub out there. I think for most people that is fine or even desired.Another thing to note- this sub is big and heavy. The basket and magnet assembly takes a lot of room. I had to actually remove the rubber cover from the magnet to make it fit in the tight confines of my enclosure, since it was fiberglassed to fit a very specific spot in my trunk. So for those of you working with tight confines, this may not be the sub for you. If you have room to spare, then this sub will not disappoint!