fischerFrame Fixing Sxr 10 x 200 T, Pack of 50, 46269

I would describe myself as an enthusiastic DIY-er.These are maybe the best fixings I have used for attaching treated 2x4 lumber (e.g. the bottom plate of framing) to concrete floors, like when finishing a basement.I did this a few years ago with Tapcon screws and found them much more difficult and less forgiving than these. Several Tapcons sheared under the force required to drive them home.I have used wedge and sleeve anchors and found them both pretty easy, but I don't really like the amount of thread and the nut on top of the rail because I like to add a row of noggins on top of the bottom plate to make it easier to secure the baseboards.I have also used hammer-sets, which are maybe slightly easier to use than these fischer fixings, and were probably my favorite until I tried these.For these, drill 110mm deep 10mm hole through the base plate and into the concrete, ideally with an SDS plus drill and bit. I tend to carefully hammer the plug down without the screw in it because sometimes I have driven the screw into the plug too early making it difficult to fully drive the plug home. The screw has a torx T-40 head, and I use a battery drill/screwdriver to drive the screw home. easy and very secure.Removal: Sometimes the frame ends up in the wrong place, and needs to be moved. Ideally this doesn't ever happen, and I'm a bit more careful these days, but mistakes do happen. My laziness wants to find the easiest way possible to fix the mistake. If one of these fixings needs to be removed, it is usually possible to unscrew the head partway and use a block and crowbar to pull the screw straight out - and most of time both screw and plug come out. If the screw slips out, it can be screwed back in a little further for another attempt. If I can't get a plug out I use an oscillating tool to slice through it under the base plate. Tapcons are usually easier to remove, (but if they sheared off then removal is a nightmare) and sleeve and wedge anchors seem impossible to remove without drilling more holes around them - though there could be a trick I'm not aware of. I have never tried to remove a hammer-set, and they don't look particularly easy to remove.

Wow, these are massive anchors! I received both the 46266 and 46264 boxes of 50each. The boxes are a little weak for the size of these anchors - which are so massive that I simply took them out and put the unused ones in a 6mil plastic bag to keep them in the box. Both use the Torx TX40 size driver and I see the drill size is 10mm (and the chart says that's about 3/8" - but that's a almost .5mm smaller!? - get the 10mm).Follow the guide depth and blow out your dust before trying to use. Note that you will want the appropriate minimum depth less the thing you are securing. If you are securing a 2"x6" or other 1.5" lumber to a concrete floor the width of the lumber is 1.5" thick or about 38mm. You will then need a hole at least 72mm ( 2 7/8") deep for the 46264 and 112mm ( 4 1/2") deep for the 42266. The expansion area is at the end of the screw and that's the most important part so make it deeper than needed to be safe. You can do your own engineering on what size you want to use!

These are high quality 100mm anchors Made in Germany. Very good for light/medium weight attachments to concrete. I like that the screws are already inside the plastic anchors, which makes it quicker to take them out of the box and set them in place. The star drive head allows higher torque without stripping the head. It is hard to find anchors like these at any hardware store. This is a specialty item.

I ordered this to use in a concrete slab. They arrived today and appears to be made well. I will be using them this weekend for my project so if there is any flaws with them I will update. They do look like the photo and the seller gave an accurate description of them and the size.

These fasteners are heavy duty and requires a 10mm diameter masonry bit if using in concrete or brick. A drill bit is not included. They are from Germany thus the metric size. A 3/8 drill bit is equal to 9.52mm. A 5/16 bit is 11.11mm. Perhaps the plastic base will expand to fit tight using a 5/16 bit but won’t be as strong. The plastic base is 100mm long (3.937 inches). The drill depth 110mm (4.33 mm) minimum. That depth includes the thickness of the material being fastened. If you’re mounting a bracket thats not think, you won’t be able to drill deep enough. This fastener is intended for mounting think materiel such as wood studs/faring strips.