Supernail Swiss Silk Wrap Self-Adhesive Tabs, 40 Count

Short version: These work fantastically for holding the natural nail together and keeping it stable. Saved me from a more serious issue or having to deal with the messy, chunky tea sachet technique and a doctor's visit. My nail was cut down extremely short too. I used with Valitic's Nail Glue & Strengthener for adhesive. Convinced this saved me from a lot of suffering and from losing a nail. These will be my go-to for any unfortunate damage forever. For folks that need support for a whole set of thin nails, these would be fantastic, and for the longevity, ease of use and such, the price is so reasonable. Two or three bucks per ten nails versus eighty plus for acrylics or falsies that can worsen thin or brittle nails is a no-brainer. I'll go into more detail in case someone isn't as familiar with nail tech, but the box instructions are all you need if you're used to working with nails. --- Longer version: It'll be a lot of words, but realistically the process is probably a total of 15-20 minutes from start to completion. I swear it's really easy, but prep and having the right things on hand is important to keep it that easy. Firstly, if your nail is inflamed or the skin is broken, do not do this or apply any product except basic first aid - neosporin, bandaids, etc. You need to consult medical help, or you may damage your nail bed permanently, or even develop an allergy or skin condition from different nail products around your cuticles. Seriously. I had a split form down my nail vertically, from tip to a quarter of the way down, after smashing my thumb in a drawer and a lot of nail art switching lately. So, it was thin already, and then starting to detach toward the tip. No blood, no swelling or redness (no clue how), just the split. Both sides of the nail could move idependently of each other - bleghk! Also had some horizontal ridges already at the base the nail because of a different smash before the drawer, making things weirder and unstable. I have quite the kit - minus acrylic, so was not familiar with these - as I've done my own manis for my whole life, so I had immediate options. After cutting and filing the nail back, I tried glue, hardening/protective laquer coats, gel polish, falsie tips with glue and gel - all failures after hours or couple days. The pressure of just using my thumb led to the split overtaking each method, despite trying to avoid using the finger at all and avoiding getting it wet, etc. These silk wraps were my last resort before a doc, as all of these other attempts naturally weakened the nail further too, and it was starting to get tender as the split slowly lengthened. Instructions for application are gold (can only speak to using without fake tips). It did take me two attempts to do this, BUT the first was fully my fault from late-night brain. I mention to highlight that removal was so fast. Classic acetone on a cotton ball for just a few minutes, and it slid right off in one pull, no stragglers. Make sure you've cleaned your nail of oils with soap, and then do a quick pass with alcohol (or acetone) to ensure dryness of the nail and nil bacteria just before application. Make sure tools are equally clean. The slight adhesive on the strips is very forgiving and allows for repositioning or lifting edges to snip. Use scissors to perfect the size if you're between sizes of the silk tabs. Be very careful not to tug on the tabs, or they'll start coming apart. Picking the correct size or cutting it to size that is slightly less wide and not fully at the base of the nail is super important. You need to be able to paint glue over all of the silk edges, including sides and back, to prevent lifting and avoid getting glue on your skin as best as possible - not just because it's annoying, but it can cause reactions if left. Use an orange stick, nail file tip, toothpick, whatever, right away to scrape up any glue that gets on your skin; get a qtip or brush with acetone to go over that spot to make sure it's gone. This was difficult at the tip of the nail since I had to cut the nail so short in my case, but do your best. Use a fine grit file/buffer as instructions say to remove excess from the tip - thicker grits tear and make runs in the silk, defeating the point of the fibers holding things together! Patience, stick to instructions. I used 600 grit and it worked well. Better to go slow and ensure you don't take too much - you do want it to curve over the tip the slightest bit. Once positioned.and the right size, press the tab to your nail with your fingers or a small tool if you've got ridges, especially sides. Essentially, you don't want pockets or flared edges. Time to glue! The glue turns the tabs immediately transparent when applied, also making it easy to see if you've missed a spot. I did a second coat of glue after the first dried. Sidenote: The strips are so thin (in a good way) that makes them still as flexible as threads. It was able to also flex and adhere across the crazy horizontal ridges and valleys and such at the bottom of my nail too, so those thinner valleys being protected was a major bonus. I used a tool to make sure it was as tucked into those spots as possible. After dry, use a basic nail buffer to soften the texture. Use a basic nail file (I used glass type) to gently and minimally flatten or taper any side edges that might be slightly lifted that could snag something. If you can, try to use a buffer instead of a file to smooth the final touches as it is gentler overall. And that's it! I am still avoiding water (gloves for dishes, drying very well after hand washing etc.), but showers and stuff haven't weakened them at all. If I want, I can do anything I normally would with nail as it's super solid, but the split isn't 100% gone yet, so I'm babying it still. For 8 bucks or whatever, I saved my nail from possible removal and have 39 more strips if I need them. Game changers!

Much of the time I play my guitar, I pluck the strings with my fingers instead of a pick. And my nails, trimmed to the right length and shape, contribute greatly to the tone I get. If I cut a nail too short and pluck a string with just skin, the note sounds dull, so keeping them intact is critical. My nails break all too easily doing everyday things, but with this product and nail-glue, I can strengthen them significantly. I've experimented with a lot of products and techniques, and below is the method that works well for me. You'll still want to be careful with your fingernails, but this can save them from breaking when accidents do happen. Be gentle when tucking-in a shirt, sliding your hand in your pocket, and drying your hands with a towel. You don't want to tear a patch loose or crack one. And when you push that button to make the light turn green, use a finger on your fretting-hand, so you don't split a nail. Develop good habits. The other products I use are IBD brush-on nail-glue (same exact product as their "nail-gel"), "Hurry Up" nail-glue dryer, emery files with 120 grit (coarse) on one side and 240 grit (medium) on the other, 320 (fine) files, 600 grit (very fine) sandpaper or file, a large (toenail-size) nail clipper, scissors, lighter-fluid, and a paper towel. These tabs come pre-shaped on the end that fits over the nail-bed side of your nail. They're all on a single sheet of backing-paper, and they have these little secondary tabs you can get hold of with a fingernail to pull them off. The tabs range from pinky-width to thumb-width. When you start using them, you'll naturally pick the ones that match your nails' widths, but when those are gone, you'll still have 90% of the tabs left. I've found that if you use two tabs that are narrower than your fingernail and overlap them, you can still get a smooth, seamless surface on the final product. If you use a tab that's wider than your nail, you'll need to trim it to width with scissors. Here's my technique for doing a nail: >Wash hands. >Roughen surface of nail with the 120 emery file. This will give the glue more to adhere to. >Clean surface of nail with lighter-fluid or 92% or so alcohol, to make sure there's no oil on it. >Cover the nail with one or two tabs. Make sure a tab isn't overshooting the nail and lying over skin, or you'll end up with a mess. >With your scissors, cut the tab's excess length. Make the cut about 1/8" longer than what will be the nail's final length. >Coat the entire nail with nail-glue. These tabs are wonderfully absorbent and make for a strong reinforcement, so you'll need two to four brush-fulls to do the first coating, depending on the size of the nail. With the brush-on glue (the brush is attached to the underside of the cap), brush it on from one side to the other, overlapping each brush-stroke a bit with the next, and reloading the brush each time it runs low on glue. >Place a paper towel on your lap and spray the glue-dryer on the nail, over the towel. Three short bursts should cover it. When you can no longer smell the dryer evaporating off the nail, it's dry and ready for another coat of glue. This type of glue is unique because it sticks strongly to itself. Each coat dissolves the surface of the one beneath it, welding itself on. >Coat the nail again. You won't need as much glue this time. Go back the other way, across the nail again. Follow up with the dryer. >Apply and dry a third coat just like you did the second, but in the reverse direction. >With the nail-clipper, cut the nail just a bit longer than what will be its final length. >Before you use an emery file, remove its sharp edges by rubbing them against another file's edges, so they don't cut into your skin. >File the surface of the nail smooth and free of brush-marks with the coarse file. >Now repeat all the above steps: apply a second tab(s) followed by three coats of nail-glue, drying each coat before applying the next. >You may want to stop here, but I like three layers. They make for a stronger nail and a nicer tone. >File the nail's surface smooth, first with the 120, then the 240, then 320, then the 600-grit sandpaper (or file). >File the nail tip to length and shape, beginning with the coarse file and working down to the 600-grit. Don't push too hard with the file; you don't want to break the nail. I get the fullest tone by filing just a bit beyond my fingertips, so I strike the string with both nail and skin. P.S., I used to use fiberglass tape, but found it to be a major, major pain. I won't bore you with the details, but this product is far superior in both its functionality and its ease of use. And in case you're wondering about using just the glue with no wraps, I tried applying six coats to a weak nail, and it cracked in just a day.

The tabs aren't exactly adhesive, more like just a little piece of silk fabric, but it works great if you follow the instructions to a t! It's saved a bunch of my broken nails.

great product

Pretty easy to use, just don’t rush it and have everything you will need ready. Read the instructions and don’t blame the manufacture for not working a miracle and your mistakes. Do not use it if your finger has an open cut. I had a crack in my nail. That was my situation. There was no bleeding. It was caused by me filing the nail down too much to make it smooth. I tried different things that did not work. I won’t list them because I don’t know your situation and don’t want to give you ideas of what to try. I can say all were a waste and this method would have saved me so much time, money, and needless worry. Can’t stress this enough, “READ THE INSTRUCTIONS” first. Clean the nail first. The glue on the strips will allow for repositioning if needed, but try to get placement right the first time. You can cut to size as needed, but be gentle with the material. Glue is going to have to cover the entire material, so don’t make it too big which will get glue over a larger area than needed. Also don’t make it too small or glue will seep into the crack. Make sure to remove any glue on the skin, you don’t want to damage your skin from prolonged or allergic exposure. PROS - instructions work and easy to follow - product work if you follow the instructions - great price - allows for minor errors and start over of the process CONS - can damage skin if not careful - you do have to file down for smoothness - you have to cut strips - some strips may not stick

Undetectable repair, thumb nail was torn almost all the way to the center horizontally! Used UV base coat to cure it on, buffed super smooth, works like a charm.

If I could give this a zero I would. The adhesive didn't stick. It even made the split nail worse. Save the few dollars and buy a better product. This product isn't worse any amount of money.

This works great, I have a finger nail that has a crack from the tip of the nail that has been there for years. I apply this and then cover with polish. It last until I remove it.

I am very satisfied! Without silk, applying only the glue on the nail is not lasting long (for guitar players).

Superb

Lätt att använda och stark.

Vi el producto en un vídeo, en internet, dónde lo utilizaban para repara uñas rotas. Yo tengo las uñas frágiles y se me rompen con frecuencia, muchas de las veces por debajo de la línea de la uña, con lo cuál no se soluciona cortándomelas. Pero probé con esta seda adhesiva, a la que luego hay que poner pegamento de uñas por encima para que quede fijada completamente, y la uña quedó reparada, fuerte y no se nota que estaba rota. Es genial!!

Great for repairing split nails, much better and lasts much longer on me than a teabag repair. Great on my natural nails and also great for repair under gel