AC 80-260V 100A CRS-022B LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Frequency Power Factor Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Split Core Current Transformer

This is an excellent product that I continue to be very happy with. I wanted to mention a few things that might be useful to potential buyers.1. Expanding on the instructions of how to reset the total energy to zeroThe instructions say to hold the button down for 5 seconds until the energy value flashes and then release the button and tap it once again. That's the correct procedure, but what might be confusing is that there's an intermediate event that's not mentioned.When you press and hold the button, after 3 seconds the main display disappears and the words SET CLr appear. Since the energy numbers didn't start blinking but instead the screen with the energy numbers just disappeared from view you might be tempted to release the button. But don't do that! Instead keep holding the button for another couple of seconds and the main screen will reappear with the energy numbers flashing. ONLY THEN can you release the button and tap it once more to zero the energy value.2. Understanding the precision of the energy numbersNote: In what follows I'm using the term "precision" to indicate the precision of what can be displayed, not reproducibility of repeated measurements.Because the energy display has only one fixed position for the decimal point - to the right of the leftmost digit - there are some limitations on the precision that can be displayed in different energy ranges, particularly above 10 kWh. I've attached some photos to illustrate this.The device has an energy resolution of 1 watt-hour (Wh). It won't display, for example, 0.5 Wh. A photo shows a display of 002 Wh.Many people will want to look at energy use above 100 Wh, and at that point the device begins displaying three significant digits. A photo shows a display of 132 Wh and another at 896 Wh. The measurement uncertainty in this range is 1 Wh. For example in the 132-Wh photo we know the energy is at least 132 Wh but less than 133 Wh. At 100 Wh this would represent a 1% uncertainty and it would be a 0.1% uncertainty at 999 Wh, just before the display mode changes.Above 999 Wh the decimal point appears and the display units change to kilowatt-hours (kWh). There are still three significant digits because the energy is displayed with two decimal places. Photos show 1.23 and 9.52 kWh. Just as in the previous display mode, the uncertainty beyond the last digit represents 1% at 1.00 kWh and 0.1% at 9.99 kWh.But at 10 kWh the fixed-position decimal point comes into play and things change. Because there is no position for a decimal point between the second and third digits the display can't show 10.0 but instead has to show 010, which is shown in a photo. This means that we know the energy is at least 10 kWh and less than 11 kWh. This 1 kWh uncertainty represents 10% at 10 kWh - far higher than the precision associated with measurements up to now. Obviously this 1 kWh uncertainty will become less important at higher energy ranges, representing 1% at 100 kWh and 0.1% at 999 kWh, the maximum energy that can be displayed. But it may be to much for some users wanting precise energy measurements closer to 10 kWh.To summarize, in the energy range from 100 watt-hours to 10 kilowatt-hours the device can display energy with a precision no worse than 1% and as good as 0.1%, which may be perfectly adequate for most users. Users who want to make careful measurements in the 10-30-kWh range - which may include PHEV owners and those partially recharging EV's - need to be sure that they understand what the display is capable of in this range.3. Exceptional customer-service experienceI bought two of these units in April, 2022. After making the measurements I needed I put them aside. In January 2025 I need to make some further measurements but had problems reliably resetting the energy to zero (which later turned out to be my own misunderstanding. See item 1.) I contacted CrocSee's customer service, hoping that they could tell me what I was doing wrong. Instead they offered to replace the units even though they had been out of their one-year warranty for almost two years! I very much appreciated this exceptional customer service, and I'm very happy with the product, which is meeting all my requirements.

PROS: Good size/form factor. Great value if you D.I.Y. & can set up your own enclosure/project box/installation. Clear, legible screens, switchable (on/off) back light, all critical data to monitor circuits in one place, ideal for load management for emergency home backup generators, or similar applications, claimed internal overload protect circuit, monitor uses very low AC load, quality construction & look/feel. Data seems accurate when compared alongside digital multi meter. Back lighting & clarity of alpha-numeric characters is very clear & consistent: my photos do not do justice to the appearance of the screens to the naked eye. (They're nice). Very pleased, so far. Quality/longevity TBD.CONS: No UL listing, not for installations requiring NEC/home insurance approval (Such a capable monitor [with UL or other approvals] is not available anywhere @ this price point, however). No ground/earth circuit. Current Transformer wires could be a bit longer: as close as the CT’s were to my monitors, I still needed to extend all (4) of the CT leads with separately purchased wire. Accuracy is impacted if you exceed MFG max recommended wire length. Check w/ MFG, or search reviews - info is there. In typical USA residential applications (Single-phase, 2 x 120VAC ~ 240VAC), it is necessary to use (2) monitors to analyze the (2) 120v. lines coming into a typical service panel or load center panel. This requires you to do some basic math to combine the values from each monitor to assess Total system loads, etc. Not a big deal, but there seems to be a missed market in the USA for a single screen monitor with the capability to monitor (2) typical residential 120v. supply lines or "legs" on a residential utility service. Like I said, Very Happy - these are minor nit-picks/suggestions. Buy it - you'll be happy for the price!

The sensor was straight forward to install. I really liked the led back light with a button to turn on and off. Also liked the current core sensor can split and slide over to clamp on instead of having to remove the wire.Unfortunately, I wish the leads coming out of the sensor were longer. It’s a little strange to need 24V AC, but I hooked it up to the 24V transformer required to run the doorbell. Might need to purchase a 24V AC transformer for other specific applications. They pull so little current, I hooked them up to the same source.I bought two of these (one for each phase on my house) to see the independent loads. This will help once we have to use the generator to try to keep the loads balanced to obtain maximum life of the generator.All read outs and measurements seem accurate and the accumulation function works. I trust the other review comparing to a fluke device and that heavily impacted my purchase. Very happy.

For the money this is an absolute bargain. Very easy to wire up and works beautifully and is very accurate (verified with high end power analyzer).To get 6-readings simultaneously on the display is so very nice.CONTRARY to a lot of Q&A answers on this product I can absolutely verify this device works perfect with only one split-core current transformer (one unit) on North America 240VAC circuit measurements (using 2-Hot and no Nuetral). Even the supplier said it would not work, incorrect, it works fine you just can't use the Neutral line as then you would need two current transformers due to unequal legs.Check out my photos to prove it works fine on 240VAC with 2-hot legs, I'm measuring a garage heater in my photos on low and high heat settings.Excellent product and very highly recommended.

I recently decided to take out the manual timer on my electric water heater and replace it with a smart switch (Sonoff TH16) which then drives a relay (120vac to the coil) and that runs the water heater. While making these changes I decided it would be fun to see how much current, etc the water heater uses while running. I wired the input of the TH16 to these as well so they are always on ... might go back and change that, but this way I get historical results too. I use 2 of these meters - 1 on each input since they are from different inputs at the panel (red and black). The wires on the donuts are only a few inches long, so I used a piece of 4 conductor alarm cabling to connect both donuts back to the meters where I split them back out. I wish the meters had the ability to be flipped over so the wires came out of the right side instead of the left, but they don't. I'm using a couple pieces of double-stick foam to mount the meters on joist next to the TH16. I also bought 2 more of these and I'll be putting them on the breaker box mains soon. I love that they are split donuts so I don't have to disconnect wires to put them on. I was concerned with having 2 donuts touching each other side by side on the output of the relay, but they both seem to monitor independently and don't seem to bother each other. Fun project, and why not? Besides, once I put the meters on the breaker box then I'll be able to tell if Duke Energy is right in that my water heater is the biggest energy abuser in the house.

Using this to monitor output from a SSR that I control with a manual potentiometer. Works well and very readable display (see photo- taken in bright sun but shaded). It had gotten past me that this display isn’t rated below 80 volts. While reality is that it continues to work down to 58 volts AC current is still around 4 amps at that voltage and far more important to me than voltage so I’ll power the meter from input side of the SSR instead which will be useless for output voltage monitoring (not to mention wattage, PF) but will let me monitor current down to zero.The split current sensor doughnut is very convenient.I wish there was a little more room for managing wire impingement with the case cutout for mounting the meter because it is super tight wire clearance but I made it work without much extra effort.

I purchased two of these multi-meters in late January to have a means of balancing the loads on the emergency generator for my home (I know, simple ammeters would have worked, but you can’t beat the price on these units). Having a split core CT that could be added after the wiring was completed was a big plus. I connected them to read the load on the sub-panel that was backed up by the generator, so they were in continuous service since they were installed.They functioned perfectly until this week (late October) when one unit began to read high in both voltage and current. I contacted CrocSee (the vendor), and to my surprise they honored the one year warranty with no questions asked and shipped a new unit immediately. I’ve just finished installing it, and everything’s back to normal. I couldn’t be happier with the customer service. I offered to return the bad unit, but they didn’t want it – probably not worth the time to diagnose/repair it.Incidentally, as part of my troubleshooting, I used a fairly accurate handheld multi-meter to confirm that the voltage reading on the good unit was dead-on, and the current reading was within a couple of percent; not bad at all for the price!

While not dead on accurate according to my Fluke meter, it gives a nice picture of (in my case) the Volts, amps and KWh that my submersible pump is using. I have been resetting it every day to 0 to compare usage after repairing a leak.

watt / amp meter not functioning

This nice little unit displays everything I want to know, voltage, current, watts, hertz, and power factor. And with the split core current transformer you don't need to cut the wire to install it, just open it, wrap around the wire and close it. I am using it to monitor the current being used by my well pump, but could be used for a variety of things, like air conditioner, furnace, fridge, freezer or any other major appliance. Another useful feature is that it displays accumulated watts, and will even keep the figure in the event of a power failure. I like it a lot. Only one caveat, you should be very careful installing this as you are working with 120-250 volts, and you need to shut off the breaker before doing anything, and also install a fuse (0.2 amps) on the line to the voltage part of the unit. Ideally, a certified electrician should do the install.

I use this on the charger for my EV. It has been great. I purchased it October 2021 and the Amazon returns process won't work after 30 days (apparently).The fault is that I can no longer reset the kWh to zero which is annoying. The clear command remains on screen for less than 1 second whereas it used to remain long enough to execute the reset.I cannot find any contact details for Crocsee.Is there a master reset process or is the unit beyond recovery?I decided to buy another but it had the same fault that killed off the first one straight out of the box so I got a refund. It is a real shame as the unit when working is great and I now would like some more but am not going to keep buying, testing and returning until I get a good couple.

I'm using these meters to monitor the Grid Side of my Grid Tied solar system.They were very easy to connect up & are quite accurate.

Unsafe. Mains power leads exposed. No case for back.