Wheeler Cerama-Coat, Spray On Ceramic Coating for Customizable, Scratch Resistant, Non-Reflective Matte Coating

This product works pretty good if one does the prep right. Acetone bath is crucial for all parts before application. Very delicate when still hot from the cook process. Best to just turn oven off after 30 minutes, crack door and let cool for a couple hours. Over application with three to four coats can be troublesome. Key to best result is minimal coating with each coat application and 30 minute or more air drying time between applications before firing. Overly thick coats will not bring the desired result to the finished product, and will have to be redone as coating will just chip off easily if applied to thick. Less is best and practice make's desired result. Manufacture is correct with roughing up the surface of initial part. Polishing down alloy of any sort will not help with finished product, as obviously the substrate requires something other than super smooth to adhere to. Quite pricey and one can, once one figures it out will work for most applications. Order two and spend a hundred bucks. That way one can rest assured of trial and failure, and still have enough to finish the job for the desired result.

I mean, 45 dollars for a small can of spray paint is kinda out there. But you get what you pay for. I will be rationing this as much as possible. Coates real good no complaints on the fde color either came out beautiful with one and a light dusting of another coat.

Bought 2 cans on same order one black and one fde. Black was used first, worked great. Fde was attempted to be used today, may 25 th. Fde can was not pressurized so no coating comes out, period. Product has a 30 day warranty and of course I waited till I had time to use it 4 days after warranty period. MONEY DOWN THE DRAIN.

Good quality and coverage. Appears to hold up well to use. Small can.

This works great for a durable coating on metal and plastic items, particularly on firearms.

I used this product on three items - the smooth finish aluminum base plates of a handgun magazine, the trigger of a rifle and on a modified aluminum handguard that I had cut and shaped to fit an upper.The aluminum base plates I did not sand, but I cleaned with CRC and dried. The trigger had rough edges originally and I sanded the outside of trigger smooth, cleaned with CRC and dried. The handguard's finish was left intact outside of where I modified, and the modified areas were cut, sanded and cleaned with CRC and dried.I heated all of the parts on a tray in the over to 150*, took them outside and applied the first coats - all went smooth and heating the surfaces seems to really keep the application clean and smooth. Dried 30 mins and the 2nd and 3rd coat were applied. Preheated oven and baked all items at 300* for 1 hour - twice the recommended time.When the timer sounded I took them and let them cool for about 30 mins - till they were just warm to the touch. Honestly speaking - they looked great. Most imperfections or mistakes had simple evened out with heat and it look promising. Sadly when I put the first base plate on, my hand slipped and a spring cut right through and a small sheet just flaked away off the side. After mounting all four plates, even as carefully as I could, all showed mounting signs. I ended up cleaning them up, re spraying them and baking them in the oven again, with followers, at 200* for 2 hours to cover the repairs. I am hesitant to try mag drops with these but its happening next week and I am not confident.The trigger came out well, it feels smooth. I don't see any metal on metal contact for the trigger anytime soon and rarely shoot with gloves - I imagine this paint will hold up well there. The one that fared the best was the handguard - it was really just touch ups and if you are careful when mounting it to not grind metal on metal - should hold up alright.I would probably stick to using a professional job for an entire lower for example - but for touch ups - I am pretty satisfied. Best advice - sand the crap out of whatever you are applying this to first. Clean with brake cleaner. Heat it up and make it warm, but one thing I will do the next time around is - heat in between coats too. I didn't do that. Last bake - bake it. Let it sit for a while - I found that the longer in the over the more evenly the paint applied and it smoothed out my mistakes.I would not use this for anything that has metal to metal contact - like where an upper and lower receiver join, or a handguard and an upper receiver meet.

I've had several guns finished with cerakote; decided I would try this product on a customized AR-7 survival rifle. Aside from proper cleaning and prep that any finish would require, it's much easier and can be done without the equipment cerakote needs. It does spray cleanly, covers well, makes a consistent uniform finish. Durability so far seems fine. Overall, it's much easier than cerakote, is what it says it is!

Follow the instructions to a T and you won’t be disappointed, there are some good videos on the tube to help if it’s your first time, in the pics only the rail was done with “olive drab” didn’t quite match the ranger point precision grip so I’ll be painting it next.