🚀 Elevate Your Truck Game!
The Traxion 5-100 Tailgate Ladder is a versatile and durable solution for truck owners, designed to fit most vehicles with tailgate heights between 28" and 42". With a robust load capacity of 300 pounds and a lightweight design of just 9.4 pounds, this ladder offers quick deployment and ergonomic support, making it ideal for anyone needing easy access to their truck bed. Its heavy-duty carbon steel construction ensures long-lasting performance, while its foldable design keeps your cargo area clear.
Load Capacity | 300 Pounds |
Additional Features | Durability |
Item Weight | 9.4 Pounds |
Maximum Height | 44 Inches |
Item Dimensions W x H | 14.2"W x 44"H |
Color | Black |
Material Type | Carbon Steel |
T**T
Change out the hardware, and it works great!
Vehicle: 2012 Ford F-150I read many of the reviews here, and will concur. The hardware is the lacking part. Only kept six pieces (two clevis pins, two sheet metal screws, and two washers.I took advice of someone suggesting to nutsert the plate to the tailgate. Since I had a rivnut inserting kit from harbor freight, I went big and used 6 1/4x20 nutserts for the outer edges of the plate.First, I put the plate in position, and used two woodworking clamps over the top edge, to hold it against the tailgate. This enabled me to close and open the tailgate and make fine adjustments of the mounting position. Once satisfied, I drilled the outer six holes with a 3/16ths drill bit. I removed the plate and drilled the appropriate holes so that my nutserts would press fit into place, before using the tool. These MUST be identical in diameter to the OD of the nutsert. One by one, I applied a thin band of silicone to the base of each and pressed them into their holes, followed by squashing them like rivets into their permanent locations.Once that was done, I made ONE (a record for me) trip to Lowe's to get four 1/4-20 x 3/4" screws and two 1/4-20 x 1" screws. Two of the holes fell between ribs, so they were lower than the others. I also purchased a bag of 1/4" ID nylon washers, and a bag of 1/4" ID spacers (to fill gaps where void between ribs fell) found in the sorter drawers. Lastly, I replaced the four metric bolts and nylock nuts for 4 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" bolts and nylock nuts out of stainless - also found in the sorter drawers, not on a peg.Upon my return, I mounted the plate with the six phillips screws. Using the clevis pins, I passed the pin through the hinge piece, carefully slid one nylon washer between the hinge piece and the mounting bracket, passed through the mounting bracket, through the hinge piece and retained with the spring retainer clip. I attached the short hinge pieces with the rubber bumpers facing down when inside the tailgate (to prevent rattle).Using the same technique, I passed one 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" bolt through the other end of the hinge piece, nylon washer, and either the offset upper ladder rail or straight, and pushed through to a nylock nut, and secured using my 7/16" wrenches. I repeated for the other one.In case you are wondering, the nylon washer affords a bit of lubrication to the pivot, so one may tighten the bolts more snug, without losing the ability to fold the ladder. It reduces rattle.Finally, I added the lower section, and on my truck, whilst sitting on concrete pad in my barn, the optimal angle with the hinge pieces horizontal made the ideal hole position in between two others - which are spaced about two inches apart. So on mine, I extended the lower ladder until the top hole was exposed, put a bolt through each side to prevent it from moving, and drilled two 1/4" holes into the upper rails at the mounting position. As fortune would have it, after withdrawing the lower section of ladder, the holes fell almost centered between the other two adjustment locations.If the difference was maybe a 1/4" to a 1/2", I likely would not have gone to the trouble.After bolting the two sides, I laid the ladder to the inside of the tailgate. Using the supplied strap, two screws and two washers, I mounted the strap to the inside. I pre-drilled those holes with 1/8" drill bit.Only regret is that there is no stop to the ladder when deployed to lock it into it's downward position. It is a little wobbly, but if one is not in a hurry, it is quite functional.With the care that I took to position it before starting, once strapped in, the tailgate closes without interference.
D**
Nice
Went on easy seems like it should work. Could have had a few washers but I found some
A**R
Better take inventory of your hardware
It’s a great ladder. Easy to install after I went to two hardware stores to find parts that were not sent to me.
J**K
Good ladder once FIXED !
Once I FIXED everything, the ladder is a worthwhile investment of money ($42.53) and time (3+ hours to install, fix, and re-install).I don't see how it could be done drilling through a liner - my Dodge RAM 3500 has a sprayed-on bed liner so it was possible to properly position the mounting plate for flat support AND clearance underneath the tonneau cover. I still had to move it at least 3 times, covering up the mis-drilled holes with black RTV.And what is not clear in the instructions is that to properly "use" the ladder, you have to have "peak" the Rocker Arms - which is NOT safe at all until the bolts are changed!. When you "peak" the hinge bars, they then clear the tailgate support cable.A. Instructions say to "Uuse a #5 (9/64") drill bit". WRONG! The #5 drill bit (with .2055" diameter) would work fine, but NOT the 9/64" drill (which only has .1406" diameter). The smaller drill "might" work with a single layer of sheet metal and the short screws, but NOT the longer screws!B. The list of tools state using a 1/2" or 13mm wrench. WRONG! The supplied bolts are 6mm Metric allen-head cap screws and nuts. These require a 10mm wrench and hex wrench.CRITICAL FLAW. The holes in the Rocker Arms and Climbing Section appear to be sized per original spec - which I'm guessing was for a 5/16" bolt (thus the 1/2" wrench). The holes in the risers on the Mounting Plate and the Straight Tube and the Offset tube are sized for a 6mm bolt. So what you get is an EXTREMELY wobbly assembly if you use the provided fasteners.THE FIX. I drilled everything out to 5/16" diameter. Where bolts went, I used 5/16-18 x 1-1/2" Grade 5 bolts and Nylok non-loosening nuts (4 bolts, 4 nuts). I also used 5/16" SAE Flat Washers (4) to take up slack at the hinge points. I snugged the pivot bolts together enough to allow movement, but not free play. The two bolts connecting the climbing section were made tight.For the removable pins, I used 5/16" diameter x 2" Overall Length Steel Locking Pins (2) instead of the much, much smaller 6mm ones from the Chinese kit.Once these changes were made, the ladder pivoted very easily into position, was very stable going up or down, and was very secure once strapped to the tailgate.The ladder design claims to be patented, I bet if you check the patent it calls for 5/16" bolts. Good luck!26-Sep-2017. Now that I've used the ladder for a while, I upgraded my rating from 3 stars to 5 stars. The last 2 stars I credit me with though. The ladder REALLY has made a difference in accessibility to the truck bed, especially since I've had both knees replaced.
G**
I have the ladder when I need it and it’s out of the way!
Once I figured out how it is supposed to be fastened on the side I figured out witch side you wanted it mounted on the tailgate & the strap to hold it down, yes I like it and it’s handy & out of the way.
Trustpilot
3 weeks ago
2 weeks ago