Renogy Corner Bracket Solar Panel Roof Drill-Free Mount for RV, Boats, 1 Set

It’s perfect for no drill applications for ev roof or any other. Make sure to measure extra space for the pads since they will add about 4-5 inches

This works good! I used it to mount a 100watt solar panel to my camper roof and it worked good. Very solid. I used double sided exterior roof tape and gorilla glue to mount them to the roof. Very strong combo. This mount didn’t budge and inch once it was installed.

I did a lot of research and this product gives strength to the claim that you can do a no holes solar panel installation.I'm happy with the product it is a strong and well built. Looks like it had a good amount of surface area for the adhesive to use. I will add that they are hollow and it would be a better grip if it wasn't but...Instructions seemed a little off...So in my research I found that 3m vhb tape was the 1# go to for drill free installation.So I got some 3m vhb tape 4950, sikaflex and eterna bond tape to hold it. Also de natured alc. And sand paper or surface prep.NOTE. The surface prep is key you must have a good clean surface for a good bond.If I could do it over again I would have done better surface prep.My first misake was screwing the legs to the panel befor it was on the roof (im glad I didn't vhb or sikaflex the legs to the panel.) My roof had a slight pitch so I had to take off a few legs and re screw some so all the legs were flush to the roof for maximum bondage.I put the legs on the panels on the roofI put vhb tape on the bottom of all the legs.Clean roof well let dry, mark corners, peel vhb tape, set, press and seal with sikaflex. Let it dry and cure then I added some eternabond tape as an extra precaution that stuff is strong.Also to note had my panels on the feet bracket mount when I did the installation so I didn't get to seal the back of the legs. I'm going to just use a spray sealant like flex seal on that inside area.

I read installation advice here first. Then although I found my rv roof was fairly flat I was still unable to use the two center supporting pieces for my 100 watt panel since the panel rocked slightly when they were in place. I mounted the corner support pieces and panel temporarily and used a magic marker to outline the corner positions. Then I used a razor knife to cut the rubber roof material out to expose the osb. I applied Sikaflex 252 liberally to corner supports and glued them to panel, then glued panel to roof. I used rubber roof sealant to further seal the corner pieces to roof the next day. After the glue had completely set I pre-drilled supports and screwed all corner supports to roof and panel frame (using small stainless steel screws). I removed roof lag bolts and filled holes with epoxy and reinstalled lag bolts. I like the combination of glue and screws to hopefully retain the panel. I feel that the added screws are necessary unless your roof is completely flat and you can also use the center supports to gain more area for adhesion. After gluing my panel I checked a few days later and one corner was loose between support and panel, but all corner supports were secure to roof with only glue. I added screws because the one corner was loose probably because my roof was not completely flat and the slight strain caused one corner to release. I will be checking screws for tightness when travelling.

Holds panels snuggly, I also drilled pilots and used screws to ensure the panels would stay in the brackets. I then sealed them to the roof without using any screws. They are bigger than normal brackets and added 2.5 inches to each side or 5 inches to width and 5 inches to length. I was originally planning on mounting them vertically but ran out space and had to go horizontally. I would buy them again and the price was better than other similar options.one more consideration, I also added a safety strap that attached to the cross bar, just in case they break free. Not a big concern, but they are sealed to roof without screws and at highway speeds the panels would be a problem if they came off.

No screws does not lay flat.

First, I build vans for a living, but this was my first time (and last) gluing on panels.3 months after installing and using my personal vehicle, my 200w newpowa solar panel ripped off my roof at 75mph. Luckily nobody was hurt behind me.I followed the instructions and used the recommended glue to glue the panels to my aluminum roof. I used all the proper prep washing the roof, using I think it was alcohol to clean the roof, to bond the aluminum and plastic together.The glue adhesion failed in multiple spots. It failed where I bonded it to the aluminum and other brackets where I bonded it to the solar panel itself. So I can't say I didn't prep my aluminum roof or the panel as it failed in many different areas.I will be using racks from now on.

Mounted a 175 watt solar panel on my motorhome roof. The roof was flat lenghwise, but curved widthwise. To overcome the curve, I mounted the brackets on the roof first, then installed the solar panel. With the roof curve, the panel will not sit entirely flat on the mounts, but that is not a problem, just put some adhesive foam tape on the top of the mounts underneath the panel, and use self taping screws on the sides to secure the panel. This also allows for easy removal should the panel need replacing.Draw the outer dimensions on the roof as if the mounts with the panel were installed, adding a 1/4 inch to adjust for the curve. Preparation to secure the mounts is key, use a 5/50 mix of alcohol and water to clean the surface. Apply 3M VHB tape universal primer uv to both the bottom of brackets and the roof. Attach 3M VHB 4950 tape to the bottom of the brackets and then attach to the roof. Be sure to check and recheck the inside dimensions before attaching, because once the mounts are attached, they are not going to move. Seal around the mounts with Sikaflex 221 sealant/adhesive. Now, set the solar panel inside the mounts, screw in the sides to secure.All done.