Dalton Enterprises 35099 PLI-STIX 30 Ft. Asphalt and Concrete Crack Filler

Filled large crack across width of driveway. Crack was about 1/2”. Laid down easily and stayed nestled in the crack before heating. Used propane torch to easily melt. Deeper spots did require two layers but ended up great after that. Just have to seal driveway and I’m guessing it won’t show much at all

Easy to use, fair price, and a good sealer!! I've bought it twice now and will buy more in the future!! Just wish they sold it in a greater bulk quantity...

Lots of good info in prior reviews - taken altogether - this stuff works very well.1. Buy a Bernzamatic (no personal affiliation) MAPP gas kit with hose and click lighting. $55 bucks at Home Depot and worth every penny if you have more than a few feet of cracks to fill. No need for a wider nozzle. You can sit on a stool and easily handle the torch nozzle. Remember you are trying to save $$ by not hiring a contractor, so a little investment goes a long way.2. Cut the stuff into 12" lengths. Easier to handle. Once it melts it all flows together. Using tin snips - it can be cut lengthwise in half or even in quarters. Use a little silicon spray on the snips to keep product from sticking. Cut sides of product stick a bit to the crack. I would also pound them in with a lump hammer if necessary, but mostly they laid on top of the crack and melted in.3. Clean crack per directions. Expect to get some product over the edges of the crack. this isn't going to make a perfectly neat filler but with practice, you can get it pretty good.4. Hold the flame so only the tip of the flame contacts the product. Keep the torch head moving slowly. If you get yellow flame, back off a bit. The product starts to melt and flow and the longer you keep the heat on, the more it flows and fills. It does smoke a bit, try not to breathe it excessively of course.5. I haven"t done this yet because I just thought it up - but on the next batch of cracks, while product is still molten, I'm going to dust the larger cracks with mill fines (AKA - rock dust back east). I figure this will deal with the summer sun in case sunlight makes the product sticky. I also suspect that you could partially fill larger cracks with pea gravel (not river run, use quarry stone) and get a real solid patch.

Due to some neglect on my part, my commercial parking lot has a lot of cracks. The cost to replace it was about $30,000, so I have watch a lot of YouTube videos and tried a number of products from Amazon, Home Depot and Lowes.So far, I have been impressed with Dalton Enterprises products for the DIY’er. But I found that there are better ways of using the products and more information that should be out there.Dalton Enterprises PLI-STIX Asphalt & Concrete crack filler works better than the liquid stuff that you just pour into a crack, but unfortunately you need a heat source to use the material. It also comes in different length, thickness and both Black or Gray. 1/4 inch diameter, black only = PLI-STIX 35099 = 30 feet, PLI-STIX 36099 = 60 feet; PLI-STIX 1/2 inch diameter, both black & gray (order it online from www.latexite.com or www.HomeDepot.com); 1/4 & 1/2 inch diameter, both black & gray in over 100 feet of material as “CrackStix”.I found that using it only was not as good as using it with their other product called “Latex-ite Super Patch”. After melting the PLI-STIX into the crack, I put in the Super Patch and pound it into the crack with a heavy hammer or for larger cracks with a tamper. You need to follow the manufacture’s directions, but I found this to work much better although it is a little more work. I tried this because “composite” materials like concrete are also better than the base materials like cement.Their other products, “Trowel Patch” for shallow cracks (less than 1/4 inch) and “Ultra Shield Driveway treatment” are also excellent products.I do not know about my long term efforts for the area that was the “alligator type” asphalt problem, but I use a epoxy material (FloMix Flowable Asphalt Repair) and not the Dalton Enterprise Latex-ite type material.

Worked well sealing a gap between asphalt (black top) and a concrete sidewalk. About 50ft. Used 2 packages. A Bernzomatic plumbing torch with a yellow MAP gas can worked just fine (didn't need a more powerful torch at all. Also one can of gas still had some left after I used it for 50ft of product).First, I cleaned out the dirt from the gap using a flat screwdriver - that was surprisingly easy and went fast. Then I washed all remaining dirt with a garden hose with the handle set to "jet" and let it dry for about day. Then I positioned the material about 15ft at a time and melted it with a slow sweeping motion about 1 foot at a time (I used a regular Bernzomatic plumbing torch with a yellow gas canister - got it from the home depot a while ago). You may want to have a long flat screwdriver handy for minor positioning corrections while heating the product. In places where the gap went deep down (4-6 inches I guess -the thickness of concrete) I filled it with sand (from the home depot - 50lbs bag is under $3) almost to the top and then used a screwdriver to remove the extra sand in order to make room for the product to lie in the gap on top of the sand. Also you can cut the product with scissors into smaller pieces if you need to add some more somewhere where the product went in too deep and the sealing line sagged, Just put that piece atop the the sagged sealant and melt it with sweeping motion.

I did a lot of researches on websites, it seems to me the hot robber filler works the best. So I gave it a try. I am in Illinois, after the winter, the cracks appear again. The cracks on my driveway is less than 1/4 inch at the worst spot, most are very narrow, it is around 3 feet long.I have also tried other products with wonderful customers review saying they worked beartifully. So far I have no luck to fix the cracks myself.

If you have the time and a MAP torch, this is the way to go. Caulk dries out and comes loose. Not this stuff.