G8P-1A4P-12VDC Fully-Sealed PCB Relay 30A 250VAC for PC Board or Panel-Mounted

Worked perfectly and saved me hundreds of dollars!!

Never using a repair service again. It's easy to fix a dryer. It just takes a bit of effort if you have numerous problems. I had a bad motor and a bad relay for the board. Relay works great.

this relay repaired my dryer.

Received a 2 pack. Build quality from the outside appears good. One of the relays has 5 prongs, the other 4. Believe they're electrically identical. I used the 4 prong relay to replace a burnt out relay in my dryer (see title for model). Worked, and still working a month later. You WILL need soldering skills for this replacement. Watch a few youtube videos.Tips from one newbie to another on soldering / desoldering :- If you don't already have a decent soldering station, plunk down the money and get one ~$40. You're saving a packet with this anyway, so invest some of the savings in a good soldering station. Make sure to get flux, a desoldering pump. And solder tin ! Wait till it arrives. In the meantime admire your new relay :-)Desoldering, removing the damaged relay:- If its your first time, fish up some damaged electronics and practice desoldering and soldering on THAT. You dont want to damage your controller board - that's $300.- The toughest part of this project IS de-soldering and removing the old relay. First timers, best done with 2 people - one pulling on the relay from one side, the other doing the desoldering. If the other person is the significant-other, be polite and STAY CALM, or you'll have much bigger problems than a non-functioning dryer.- You'll first need to scrape off the varnish at the terminal so your iron can get to the tin to desolder. I tried with a Dremel and almost damaged the board. Use a knife, dremel, whatever. Just be REALLY CAREFUL to not let your 'scraper' run off to other parts of the board. If you do bare some other part of the circuit, use NailPolish (yes) to re-coat. This is a high current circuit, and likely high humidity and you dont want the copper exposed - it will corrode.- There's a natural tendency to keep the iron on the terminal till you can pry the old relay loose. DONT. Do not heat the terminal for more than a few seconds, or you'll fry other components. Give the board enough time to cool off between attempts.- If you have a wick or suction-bulb to suck up the tin as you desolder, do that first.- You may need a few iterations through each terminal to desolder and pry loose a bit, rather than try to release one terminal at a time completely. Do what works for you, just dont hold the iron to a terminal for too long.Soldering: - after de-soldering this is a breeze. Not much advice here other than not to keep the iron on too long.- Nail polish to cover the tin once you're done.Installation and testing:- dont tempt Murphy by installing and closing up everything before you check it works. Connect the wires to the board, make sure the bottom of the board is elecrtically insulated and place it somewhere stable on the dryer. Make sure its NOT sitting ON the drum where it'll spin off if things work !!Good luck !

Relay came well packaged and the contact points covered by foam. Well protected. Contact points all fit the circuit board lining up perfectly. Took longer to disconnect the wires from the circuit board than it did to solder the relay back on. This was a very easy and cost effective fix for my dryer. Dryer is approx 11 years old now. I've replaced the heating element (from a part here on Amazon as well) and now this. Less than a 20 dollar fix whereas a repair person and a new circuit board would be well over 300 dollars. Half the cost of a new dryer. It's been a full week now and no issues. If I get 6 months to a year on this dryer, I will be very happy. Thanks Amazon for stocking this part.