RiteAV - Outdoor Ethernet POE+ / RJ-45 Surge Protector (Shielded) for Thunder & Lightning Protection (Gigabyte)

I have had these installed approaching a year or so, so far so good. I know they have been exposed to numerous transients and near misses, one of which I genuinely thought I was a goner - the hair stood up on my arms, I heard a loud pop, and puckered - but the pop was the discharge tube in a coaxial switch firing, not the headphones I had on searing into my skull. If that discharge tube fired loud enough for me to hear it through noise cancelling headphones, then I must have been hit with one heck of a lot of Back EMF - and my NIC survived. Price is right, just make sure its installed properly - it doesn't get any simpler than scraping the paint off under a screw on your desktop chassis, dabbing a little dielectric grease on the surge protector terminal to prevent corrosion due to moisture ingress and galvanic currents, and reefing down on that screw tight enough to pin her in there so it wont get knocked loose while dusting, finagling with cables, etc. I think one of the major problems with this, is people do not know how to install it. You want to ground it to the chassis of the device you are trying to protect, not your water line, not a rod hammered in the dirt, not grandma's dentures - the chassis of the device you are trying to protect, or a ground tied via a low inductance conductor to the device you are trying to protect. If you buy this and install it improperly, IE hammer another ground rod outside and clamp it with a 6 awg nec wire, you will make your equipment MORE likely to sustain damage in a transient event. In residential installations, you need a single point ground - unless you haven't built your house yet, in which case feel free to spend $25,000 on an equipotential plane such as that which is on a cellphone tower - then you will be using single point ground theory in your system design. This means you need to connect everything together with the lowest practicable inductance and impedance, so that it all comes up in potential and down in potential together - this is how you stray current. We can't eliminate the voltage, but if we equalize the voltage across all devices, we will not have any current flow whatsoever. If you do not heed the warnings, and think you are better off installing a separate ground rod for this to connect to - the first proximate strike you receive will cause an elevation in ground potential (the dirt itself becomes charged, because soil is not a perfect conductor), IE - Ground rod 1. With the ethernet surge cable bonded, will come up in potential to say, hypothetically, 80V - now, that 80 volts your discrete ethernet ground rod has risen too wants to equalize - it wants to get to your utility ground rod (the one by your electric meter). The wires in your house your equipment is bonded to that utility rod, because they are plugged into an electrical socket in the wall. Guess what connects "Discrete Ethernet Ground Rod" and "Household AC Utility Ground Rod"? Yes, your equipment. Ethernet port is bonded to rod one, power plug is bonded to utility rod since it's plugged in in the house - guess what jumpers(connects) the two? YOUR MOTHERBOARD AND THE INTEGRATED CIRCUITS ON IT.

Easy to Install

El equipo varios vinieron sin soldadura la cual es causante de que el equipo tenga un mal funcionamiento el las fotos Se ve la falta de la soldadura en uno de los extremos decidí abrirlo para saber el fallo y me encontré con esto.

Good build quality. Took a picture of the internals in case anyone is curious.

It is doing great,before I installed it we kept losing power to our equipment.Thank You for a great product. Dudty

3 of mine now have stopped working. It starts with intermittent connection issues that become more frequent until you need to bypass it. Find another solution.

I want to give this a higher rating than 3 stars, because it seems to be sturdy enough to do what it says. But: The only English in the instructions is the words "IN" and "OUT" printed in a jumble of Chinese. And the case is NOT marked "IN" or "OUT". Does the actual performance of surge/lightning protection depend entirely on the +/- alignment of diodes inside the metal shell? Or something like that? Or what? Why do the instructions bother to mention "IN" and "OUT" unless it's important for some reason, and then why isn't the body of the protector marked to indicate which is "IN" and which is "OUT"? For now all I can do is hope.The only thing I can say right now is it doesn't appear to affect my network throughput at all.

Looks like a good product, just installed mine.Before installing, I opened it and checked its insides (see pictures); I'm not an EEE, but I have some electric/electronics experience and it seemed well built: all-metal box solidly put together with 8 screws, still easy to open with just a screwdriver for inspection/maintenance/whatever, fiberglass circuit board instead of the cheaper phenolite, and solders seemed solid and correctly done.Examining the circuit board closer, I saw two soldered-through 6KE68CA (the larger black pieces near the center). Searched a little and found its datasheet, they are supposed to be "600W TRANSIENT VOLTAGE SUPPRESSOR", which is exactly what a quick-responding spark arrestor should have. Additionaly, there are 16 SMD-soldered smaller pieces, 8 for each RJ-45 connector, ie, 1 for each of each connector 8 pins, all of them labeled as only "M7". Wasn't able to figure out what those are, tho.Been in operation for about an hour: ethernet error counters on the respective interface are all zero so far, so it isn't introducing any issues.I purchased this specifically because of the metal box (I've seen plastic surge suppressors catch fire in the past and almost setting fire to the building, so I'm not risking anything with plastic here) and so far I have a good impression of it. Will post again in a few months if anything else shows up.