Universal Rotary Changeover Switch SZW26-20/D202.2D-W with Wider Master Switch Exterior Box 660V 20A 3 Position 2 Phase (3.15"x3.15"x3.7")

It has extra switch connections so I added forward and reverse lights. Works great!

I wired it up for the inverter in rv so I could isolate if not needed. Worked great.

The instructions should have indicated how to pop the switch apart to add the jumpers. If you plan to use this to select between grid power and generator power, you'll need to add two jumpers. I should have looked at the pictures here in Amazon more closely because it wasn't obvious how to take the switch apart to add the jumpers. It's clear now, but I ended-up just using short bits of wire to jump across where needed. By the way, I got the 3 inch box and had no trouble with cramming the 14AWG wires into the box...no more difficult than with a single gang switch box.

I rewired a 2 speed bandsaw that was originally being controlled by a residential light switch. This switch was easy to wire and looks great on the machine.

Writing this review to hopefully save others a lot of grief. Included with these switches are two jumper bars and 4 wire retaining terminal screws, two per bar. These ARE NOT INTENDED to go inside the switch (!) as some reviews have implied. In fact, if you dismantle the switch, you're going to be searching for tiny springs which go flying once the switch is opened. The provided "jumper" or terminal bars are meant to be mounted at the bottom of the box, one on either side. Two small mounting screws are also provided for the pre-drilled holes. Unfortunately, the manufacturer provides no explanation as to their purpose. Nonetheless, they can be used to simplify wiring up the switch, such that each terminal in the switch contains no more than one wire. Meaning, NO JUMPER WIRES between switch terminals. Any need for multiple connections is made at one or both of these mysterious terminal bars. I purchased two of these switches, the large and extra tall one, and the large standard height one. If you're not particular about appearances, I think it is well worth the slight additional cost for the extra tall box. The switch mechanism does hang rather low in the standard height box, leaving less room for wiring.

This is a very well built and nice switch. The housing is small, but to fix the problem, we added a junction box and from pig tail wires coming from the rotary switch, we connected all the wires inside the J Box. One issue we noticed that the wiring diagram the comes with it appears to be incorrect. Position 1 connects #1 & #2 lugs. And Position 2 connects #3 & 4 lugs, not as shown on the wiring diagram..

Nice switch

Wish I had taken photos of the install. It was NOT easy. This is a 20A switch, which means you'll need to use 12 AWG wire. But it works as advertised! For my project, I wanted the switch to be able to switch from power from the inverter to power from the grid. That way, my devices (fridge and small electronics) in our camp trailer would be powered no matter the source. So I needed wires coming in from the grid (two go into the box, ground wire stays outside the box) Then wires from the inverter (same deal, two into the plastic box, ground wire outside) Then four wires coming out of the box that lead the AC circuit breaker and house outlets, plus two ground wires outside the box. To wire it all up, those four ground wires got secured with a large red wire nut (max four 12 AWG) and many more wire nuts to the rest of the connections outside the box. But the connections inside the box were the hardest. Getting all those wires through the little cutout holes was tough enough, but then trying to jam the whole front faceplate and box together and screw it all together was harder. Gotta make sure that all your wire is stripped properly (no nicks in the insulation) and you have screwed down the terminals on the switch really well. Fortunately, despite the entire switch being made of plastic (except for the terminals and internal electrical connections obviously), it seems fairly durable for light use. I would not trust it in a really heavy duty situation where it could get kicked or hit, but protected and out of the way seems fine. Since this was in a mobile setting, I used stranded wire. Would probably have been easier with solid core wire. With the tight spaces in there, the risk was too great for a stray strand of wire to touch someplace it should not and cause a short, so I crimped ferrules onto the end of each wire and this made it SO MUCH easier and safer assembling it. Do yourself a favor and buy a kit with ferrules and ferrule crimper. Long story short, I ended up not using the back end of the plastic box. I just left it off and installed the faceplate part that holds the switch anyways onto some 1/2" plywood. This made it way way way easier putting the whole thing together in still a tight space inside the camp trailer under the fridge