Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Gold

I recently acquired a set of compact Boston Acoustics VR-M50 speakers, missing a link strap and two of the speaker post bolts. Not all speakers use a “standard” type - I have three different bolt types in my modest speaker collection, and my hardware store had nothing that fit. But I took a chance on this set, and they fit perfectly, and visually are almost a perfect match. The rest of the assembly I haven’t used, but it’s definitely of high quality. It looks like gold-plated brass. For those speaker DIYers who don’t want to compromise the integrity of their cabinets with cutouts for a plastic terminal cup, this is a good alternative. Dayton Audio makes good stuff from my experience. Note(s): I bought an “open box” package from an Amazon seller, saving myself a few bucks. As to the VR-M50, it’s an impressive little speaker.

Reviews The best terminal I’ve ever used. You can use Banana type plugs or if you really want a connection your positive won’t get pulled out. You can opt for screwing the terminal down “Madman Tight” directly on your Speaker Wire and I guarantee it won’t be easily pulled out like a cheap plastic spring terminal that you have to cut a whole the size of your fist to install it in your box. No more my friends. Just drill (1) small, slightly undersized hole per terminal. No gaskets no leaking. Just tap in firmly with a soft mallet. You can even remove the interior wire terminal from the body which allows you to solder your wire to the Subs anywhere it’s convenient and then slide terminal back on the body screw it down “Madman Tight” just before u install your Sub. Rock Solid Build Quality and Performance. Who wants a B.A. Box with cheap plastic cup covering a gaping hole staring at back at you. These won’t disappoint. These are great terminals for any high power setup.

I have looked for a long time to find better posts that can be used for an eyelet connection. These have worked great and the connection is much more secure. Only issue is that you’ll have to epoxy or find a way to prevent it fr spinning. Drill smallest hole you can and pound it in. I epoxied the outside so it would bind to the plastic housing and seems to work great, also airtightens the connection so no airflow out of box. I highly recommend.

Dayton BPA-38G Banana Jack Pair Gold The binding posts are sturdy, gold plated brass and look pretty cool. Directions online are generally not so great for newer DIY builders, so I’ll describe my procedure as an example. My loudspeaker cabinets are MDF and very dry as the old HeathKits from the sixties and seventies were heavy 3/4” inch in my case. I removed the original 1/8” inch diameter binding posts that were very loose and worn. I used a new 1/4” drill bit as recommended. Since the pilot hole was already in place, I placed and clamped a 1/2” thick 4”x4” piece of scrap wood on the inside to reduce any chipping/splintering, and messy drill dust on the inside. I also moved the drill bit in and out slowly a few times to slightly expand the inside of the holes a little. I removed all the nuts/washers/soldering tab etc. from the binding post and tightened down the exterior knurled binding nut before tapping it into the drilled holes. You’ll want to place a piece of scrap wood between the top of the binding post and any hammer you need to tap it carefully straight down. Red + right and Black - left with the 8 AWG holes in the shaft oriented horizontally. Solder your wiring to the tabs provided and assemble in the following order before tightening with a #10 wrench ( washer, soldered tab, washer, nut and tighten it down, finally the second nut and tighten it down to prevent the nuts from loosening.

I don't like terminal cups because they compromise the structural integrity of the box. However with this method you end up with terminals that are not flush with the box wall. In my opinion, especially with car stereos, it's important to be able to save space, and having a terminal post sticking out 3/4" anywhere is not ideal. I thought I had out smarted the two downfalls. My plan was to fortify the box wall in a small area on the INSIDE of the box so that it was 1.5" thick instead of .75. I did this by cutting a 2 by 2.5 inch piece of mdf and holding it in place inside the box while drilling from the outside. Wood glue and the terminal nuts do the rest. I drilled through both layers of MDF with 1/4 inch drill bit and then widened the hole on the outside wall to a 1/2 inch hole about .65 inches deep so that the whole post could be recessed into the speaker box flush. I'm using banana plug connectors so I don't need access to the knuckle nut terminal part. I did manage to make a happy ending, but I ran into some problems. With my install I had 3 problems. 1. You need 3 drill bits. 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, and 9/16 inch. I only had the first 2. 2. Glue seeped into the inside of the terminal causing me hours of clean up. 3. The knuckle nut tighteners got scuffed up tapping the terminals in place with a hammer. The first problem was that 1/2 inch will only recess to the knuckle nut. You need a 9/16 inch bit preferably to widen it a 3rd time for the last 1/4 inch of recess. I didn't happen to have one handy and I actually liked the look of it with the terminals sticking out only a 1/4 inch. I'm using 90 degree banana plugs so the clearance was good enough for my purposes. I think I might like it better with the initial plan, but I wanted to finish the project that night and no stores were open. . You can make it flush with this product, but you need to double up the wall where the terminals go through, and you need a 1/4, 1/2, and 9/16 inch drill bit. You also need to be careful how deep you go with each. The second problem was unexpected. I don't know about you, but It seems intuitive to me to want to try to use some product to seal the hole during install. I used wood glue. Now if you drilled perfectly you might be able to get a seal without product, but I wouldn't risk it. So I lathered my posts in wood glue before I installed them in the hole. I thought everything was fine until i realized that the glue was pushed into the banana plug terminals filling them up! Basically some pressure was created upon insertion and the glue slipped into the inside of the terminal between the bottom of the knuckle nut and the terminal post. It took me an hour to get it out using toothpicks, paper towels and needles! So when I went to install the second terminal I made sure to tighten down the knuckle nut supper tight to try to prevent this. It didn't work. There needs to be an o ring between the knuckle nut and the rest of the post to seal it when the nut is locked down. Keeping in mind, this only happens when you are trying to recess the hole post, and when using wood glue. If you are fine with terminals sticking out 3/4 inch then this doesn't apply to you. Problem 3 happened because the knuckle nut tighteners are plastic with gold paint. The rest of the terminal is solid material but you do have to tap them into place with a hammer because of the furrowed part of the shaft. The plastic knuckle nut was slightly ruffed up and I had some paint chipping from the process. I avoided this on terminal 2, 3, and 4 by using a paper towel between the post and the hammer while tapping them into position, or you could use a rubber mallet. To be fair, I'm doing a custom install probably not considered by the engineers of this product. Most people probably don't recess the post past the screw down speaker wire hole. I'm using banana plugs so I don't care about that part. I wasn't able to find anything that included the banana connector part and not the knuckle connector. Even though this product is not perfect for the job and the way I did it, I was able to get a clean install eventually. If you like the way I installed them, I recommend some o rings or perhaps just put some silicon on the bottom of the knuckle nut before you screw it down and then let it dry over night before you install the whole post with wood glue. I plan to buy two more for my other sub and I'll let you know how it works the second go around.

Excellent binding posts. I ordered a terminal cup but when it arrived it was disappointed in how craptacular it was. One spring did not work at all, and the other stuck halfway open. Junk. While I was waiting for the terminal cup to arrive I did more research into making my first sub box. These make much more sense to me. Why use a 2" hole saw on a sealed box, only to replace the wood with thin plastic with terminals that will leak? After learning about the method of simply using ring connectors, bolts and nuts along with some sealant the 2" hole and terminal cup started to look pretty poorly though out. I was about to decide to use this method when I stumbled on a link to this product through another vendor. I read up on these and found out that they met my needs and looked very nice, like what you would expect from a pro box builder or shop. I ordered a set. I received them. They are very well made and please me greatly. I cannot wait to get them installed in my new box. Thanks to Daytoon for the great and well made product!

I bought a pair of expensive speakers, and promptly broke one of the binding posts when installing the speaker cables because the stock posts were poor quality and fragile. These replacement posts were far superior in build quality and although they weren't exactly like the stock posts, I was able to make them fit without much problem. Speakers sound good, no problem with signal transfer. I've always had good experiences with parts express.

I used these to build a dummy load tester for testing amplifiers. They have a tab on them for soldering. Work well.