Harris SSWF1/4 Stay Silv Brazing Flux, 1/4 lb. Jar, White

This works well for silver soldering brass to brass, stainless to brass, and stainless to stainless. There's a bit of a learning curve, but when you get the temperature high enough, the Flux pulls the solder into the joint and creates a strong bond. Silver solder requires more heat, which could burn off regular solder, but this stuff stays in place. Notes: - I learned from an online video that if you melt solder and let it pool around a joint, it will flow into the space with flux applied as the temperature increases to the sweet spot. - Only put flux where you need it, as the solder will be drawn to it. - The parts must be cleaned well. - Take your time bringing it up to temperature. If you blast it, carbon deposits can accumulate and interfere with bonding. - I tried this with Mapp gas and propane; most joints easily get hot enough with propane. - The flux leaves a crusty residue that can be removed after it cools. I use a wire brush. Overall a great product!

I work in copper and at brazing temp no need for a flux But my AI talked me into trying it because of the ability to help holed the copper Brazing once turned into round solder balls in place also reduces the cleanup after

Great product. Just love it.

I couldn’t get the solder to stick to the stainless with this stuff. Maybe it’s me. Update: This is brazing flux a propane torch is not hot enough.

This is one of the best fluxes for silver brazing. You just need a thin film, and the silver will flow like water. Used sparingly there isn't much to cleanup, but if there is a little black crust it can be cleared up with a squirt of water or a rub with a wet rag. It does settle over time, so if you don't use it often there may be need for stirring the liquid back into the paste. Be sure to stock up on silver brazing rods before the price gets stupider.

Muy buen producto

This is the only flux I use for silver soldering. Before using this, I could never get the solder to stick. I had tried several other fluxes thinking flux is flux. Clearly I was wrong. You have to use the proper flux for the type of solder and the type of metals you are working with. This is made for high sterling silver content solder, and for that purpose it works great. Always be sure to read the label on your silver and your flux to be sure you’ve got compatible products. Other than that if you start with really clean metal, apply a generous coat of flux, and use the right solder, the rest is just practice to know when you have the part hot enough without overheating. Not enough heat the solder won’t melt. Too much and it will run off without “sticking” to the joint. This flux made all the difference for me. Went from never being able to get the solder to flow into the joint and stick, to having success 99% of the time.

I recently took a class demonstrating a particular technique for making prong settings. One of the required items for the class pack was this black flux. I've used several types of flux in the last 20+ years, but had never even heard of this. The first jar opened up inside the packaging and there was black gunk ALL over...so I sent that back for a new jar. We used this flux in the class and it is amazing. First of all, when you paint on a dot of this onto a tiny prong, you can actually SEE it, so you know exactly where it is and whether you got it on the join. It does turn clear once it approaches temperature, so you will see your solder flow. And you can conduct several soldering operations in a row without having to pickle between each step. For production work, that is vital. Prior to this, I usually have used the spray fluxes (like Prips, etc.). They are great, but they coat your soldering board or block with gunk and frankly they don't last as long as they should because of it. With this stuff, you can just use a tiny bit right on the join and not gunk up your expensive block. I highly recommend this flux.