Viborg8X HiFi Speaker Banana Connectors, 24K Gold-Plated Banana Plug, Dual Screws Locking, Hi-end Audio Speaker Banana Jack Terminals for Speaker Cable (Support 8-20 AWG Wires)

I constructed my cables a few different ways before arriving at what seemed to be the ideal configuration. I’ll detail some of what I found during that process, as well as address some of the issues brought up in other comments and questions.My build used Canare 14/4 in a standard configuration; therefore, like pairs were joined at each end for an effective gauge of 11AWG.Although I had planned to solder the jacks, I found the I.D. of the barrel to be larger than expected; therefore, I didn’t want to dump a bunch of liquid metal in there. Besides, I felt completely comfortable relying on the screws to provide both a firm grip and solid connection, and this would make life easier if I decide to reterminate.The screws themselves require a 1/8” flathead (slotted) screwdriver. DO NOT USE A JEWELER’S or EYEGLASSES SCREWDRIVER. I found the screw would happily accept as much torque as I could apply by hand with my diminutive driver.The heatshrink provided is very thick and robust, and I preferred it over a few others that I had available. Note: The heatshrink should go over both the wire and the terminal body, just shy of the shoulder as to not impede the fitment of the outer barrel. This will help relieve stress on the joint.The barrels themselves felt pleasant, even though they were very lightweight. They are aluminum, so be sure to insulate them in some fashion. (I used heatshrink that was not supplied with this product.) As I will mention again in a moment, the barrels themselves are completely optional and can be left off altogether.There has been some discussion of what size wire will fit these. I can attest that 11AWG will fit—and would guess that 10AWG might, as well—with the screws just proud of the body <1mm. With the heatshrink over the plug body, the barrel will still cinch down. I would suggest, if using 8 gauge wire, to forego the screws and solder the wire in place. Or, use the screws and forego the barrels altogether.The plugs will protrude from some terminals, as they do in my speakers. (This is likely true for any such plug.) Therefore, they are subject to deforming under pressure (as did one of mine, while temporarily unsupported). Once bent, they will lose their ability to grip until they are bent true, since the “spring” is impeded by the bend. I would suggest cutting them down as needed with a Dremel, carefully as to not deform them, as well as supporting any heavy lengths of wire.Another tip is to use a dielectric on the connections to prevent them from getting stuck. Most would suggest DeoxIT D5 but, since I couldn’t locate mine, I used Boeshield T-9, which is used for electrical contacts in both aerospace and Formula 1. (Do not use silicone lubricants, which are not dielectric.)Finally, I have no other such plugs to compare these to. But, for the price, they are gems. Just be mindful of their limitations, and they should work out fine!

I just reviewed the higher end plugs that didn't fit my amp. As earlier described, the higher priced plugs fit only my speakers. The plugs shown here are the ones I used on my amp. They are cheaper but still of good quality. These just compressed more easily to fit a slightly tighter input. They lock in firmly and fix the falling out issue you'll have with those really cheap plugs at discount stores.

Well designed and well executed banana terminal. Excellent buit. No soldering required. Color coded sleeves and instructions included. Used to shorten my Loonpo (Micca-like) speaker cable.Very tight BFA-style connectors. Made of cooper. Color coded wire sleeves.Firm grip. Consistent connection. Will re-order.Happy listening!!

I made a pair of speaker cables for the listening room and used these Viborg banana connectors on all the ends. Using a multi-stranded 10 Gauge copper conductor, they allowed me to insert the stripped end into the rear of the Viborg connector and still have enough room to fully tighten the 2 retaining screws flush with the connector body so that the sleeve could be screwed on. A different brand that I tried would not allow this with anything larger than 12 Gauge wires, and even that required that the screws be excessively tightened.But the best thing about these compared to many others I have used over the years is that the metal that the "springy" part at the tip is much thicker than average. That means that they need a firm push to fit into the jack ( a bit of DeoxIT Gold helps lubricate and protect here) when installing and assures a firm vibration-free contact with the jack.So, between accepting the thicker than average wire I wanted to use and the increased spring tension of the tips, these made for a perfect project. They are well made and work perfectly in my setup.

These are very nice connectors. They don't have to be soldered but I did it, anyway.Some people in reviews said that the metal was cheap but I have the same type banana plugs made by another Amazon Seller and the main difference I can see is that the sleeve is lighter.That is fine with me. These fit my amp jacks and they look and sound great.I don't expect to be putting any stress on them plugged into the back of my AVR.I especially loved the heat shrink sleeves for the wire ID. I didn't use them as the manufacturer intended but I made them work for my Bi-Amp setup.

I bought 2 sets of 8 plugs, each set has at least 2 plugs that had defective screws or bad taps, very disappointing as I was making my cables for my new audio system bi-amping my speakers, I had to force the screws/bolts to go all the way down to hold the cable and for one of the plugs I had to bent the cable to make it work. The caps feel flimsy when tightening them and very easy to get them loose. 2 plugs once connected to my speakers went a bit out due to the weight of my cables (mogami 12 awg) which is heavy but not in comparison to other quality cables. In my opinion if you are investing in your audio system, don’t buy this low quality plugs but something more reliable and better quality. One thing to mention is , if you run into a screw issue when trying to screw it out, do not continue and force the screw out instead, screw it all the way until is free inside the plug , then try to screw it from the top slowly. You have to use a nice screw driver that fits firm the screw to get a good wire grip.

My first set of 8 were perfect. I bought four more sets of 8, and a couple of plugs had a manufacturing defect - wouldn't unscrew. When I forced one of the two, the outer disc with the screw came out. All the other 30 plugs were perfect! I didn't return it, since I had more than enough plugs to use.The manufacturing defect is the reason for the 3 stars instead of 5