3378 Super Black India Ink, 1 Pint - 404696

First time buying this ink. It is a great buy and really great quality. I am very pleased!

I'm so happy it has a pour spout! Make sure you have cleaning fluid on hand, as things ink will stain something fierce even with just soap. Cleaning can be a chore if you're not familiar with the process. This ink is also highly water-resistant when dried, making it great for use in watercolour or printmaking. Remember that carbon-based ink is in a strange category of colours that can vary from very pale to very dark depending on if you wish to dilute it or not. Carbon ink will not turn blue or red when diluted like pigment-based black inks and paints will. SuperBlack is on the darker end of blacks, and dries to a nice, neutral, matte black. It's maybe the 2nd closest you can get to Culture Hustle's "Black 2.0" for the price. It's also made in the US, so that is kind of a bonus.

I have a love hate relationship with Speedball Super Black. But honestly, this stuff is a little underrated. It's okay for brush inking, and pretty good if you let it condense. For nib use, though, it flows great (one of the better flowing inks I've used... and I've used a LOT of inks). I also use this ink a lot when blending inks for brush use, and it makes a great base. Not only that, but it doesn't bleed on any of the higher qualities papers I've used that are more prone to bleeding with certain inks (like Ultradraw). Dollar for dollar, you can't beat this stuff. It's my go to back up ink. It's easy to get, works well enough, and comes in big quantities.

I used this ink to stain my outdoor concrete countertop. one part water one part ink. Concrete absorbed it nice and took the color. ONly downside is the bottle leaks from the top. Theres a nozzle and then the cap. When you turn it upside down to squeeze and squirt the ink out from the nozzle, it leaks from the cap. Other than that good product

What Amazon genius came up with “sheerness” as as an option? Seriously? Anyway, I used this super black India ink to make a super black dining table made from red Oak. Don’t even think about opening the bottle without gloves on. Also, anything the ink touches it will stain...for all eternity. If applying to wood, the secret is to continue wiping until it starts to haze over. The idea is to create a uniform thickness in the layer(s). If you allow the ink to pool or allow thicker layers to dry then it will blotch. These blotches will still be visible underneath a topcoat such as polyurethane. It would be visible when you see reflected light on the surface. It’s important to do only 1-2sf at a time because it flashes so quickly. Think shellac. If you have blotchy areas I suggest using a gray 3M pad and “sanding” it with the grain until it disappears. Worst case scenario, if you start seeing the wood through the ink, you have to reapply some ink to that area and just wipe until it hazes over and it will disappear. Once completely dry (in only a few minutes) lightly blend the new area in with the gray 3M pad and it blends nicely. Make sure the entire surface looks uniform after buffing with the same 3M pad then you can wipe it with a barely damp microfiber towel followed by a super dry microfiber towel. The damp microfiber towel will turn black quickly but since the finish is dry this actually washes out of the towel. The dry towel removes all of the fine debris from the wood grain. I used two coats of water-based matte polyurethane. I sprayed a light first coat followed by a very gentle 320 grit sanding, wiped with the microfiber towel then a second very wet coat. It leveled beautifully with no marks or fish eye or anything. I had planned on a third coat but after the second coat I was completely satisfied. Let the heavy coat dry overnight before you decide if you like it or not. The water-based-poly tends to look gray for a little while. With this larger bottle I was able to do two coats on the bottom and 2+ coats on the top of a 3 x 6 table and I still have an inch in the bottle. As a sidenote, I went to the dollar store and purchased one of those dish scrubbers that has the slightly abrasive oval pad with the hollow handle that you would normally fill with dish soap. Plus I bought a two pack refill of the scrubber ends. I would squirt 1-2 tablespoons into a plastic dish, soak the scrubby sponge and apply it to the wood in circular motions to fill all of the wood grain and then pulled the ink with the grain until it hazed over and looked uniform. Keep pulling out the darker areas as this indicates a thicker layer and then it will start to haze over. You have to move quickly or else it will dry. I can’t stress this enough. After a minute you will get the hang of it. Fun project!

Penetrates wood easily for ebonizing and dries Black.

india ink just what i requested

Pros: - You get ALOT of ink for your money. - Very deep black color. - Very clean lines. Cons: - Not as thick as the previous "Speedball Calligraphy Ink" that I've purchased in the pasts. - Does NOT hold onto the "ink well" of the Speedball 101 pen nib... at all. Edit: I've began making use of the ink by adding Gum Arabic (a drop at a time) and now it is thick enough... don't know why it felt any different to begin with though. Same brand, in a tiny bottle that I've purchased previously worked perfectly for the same nibs.