Tri-Band BE19000 WiFi 7 Router (Archer BE800) | 12-Stream 19 Gbps | 2×10G + 4×2.5G Ports | LED Screen, 8 High-Performance Antennas | VPN, Easy Mesh, HomeShield, Private IoT, Free Expert Help

UPDATE, JUNE 6, 2025: I've had this router for 3 months now with my Spectrum (Cable) Internet service. I currently have the 1000 Mbps-Down/40 Mbps Up speeds. I get consistent speeds on WiFi equal to what I subscribed to the 1 Gig service from Spectrum Internet. Very happy with the router. See attached speed test picture.. Note: Also the security subscriptions on this router are not needed. They are optional enhancements. The router will work without them. The router firmware is up to date........ ****Recommended settings for TP Link Wi-Fi routers and access points, which could potentially take care of all the negative reviews**** For the best security, performance and reliability, these are the recommended settings for any Wi-Fi routers, base stations or access points. The information in this article is primarily for network administrators and others who manage their own network. About Wi-Fi privacy and security warnings If your devices shows a privacy warning or weak-security warning about a Wi-Fi network, such as a warning about a private Wi-Fi address, that network could expose information about your device. If you administer the Wi-Fi network, we recommend you update the settings of your Wi-Fi router to meet or exceed the security standards in this article. If you don't administer the Wi-Fi network, bring these settings to the attention of the network administrator. Router settings To change your router's settings, update its firmware or change the Wi-Fi password, use the configuration web page or app provided by the router's manufacturer. For help, consult the router's documentation, its manufacturer or your network administrator. Before changing settings, back up your router's existing settings in case you need to restore them. Also make sure your router's firmware is up to date, and install the latest software updates for your devices. After changing settings, you may need to forget the network on each device that previously joined the network. The device then uses the router's new settings when rejoining the network. To help ensure your devices can connect securely and reliably to your network, apply these settings consistently to each Wi-Fi router and access point, and to each band of a dual-band, tri-band or other multiband router: Security Network name (SSID) Hidden network MAC address filtering Automatic firmware updates Radio mode Bands Channel Channel width DHCP DHCP lease time NAT WMM DNS server Security Set to WPA3 Personal for better security, or set to WPA2/WPA3 Transitional for compatibility with older devices. The security setting defines the type of authentication and encryption used by your router, and the level of privacy protection for data transmitted over its network. Whichever setting you choose, always set a strong password for joining the network. WPA3 Personal is the newest, most secure protocol currently available for Wi-Fi devices. It works with all devices that support Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax), and some older devices. WPA2/WPA3 Transitional is a mixed mode that uses WPA3 Personal with devices that support that protocol, while allowing older devices to use WPA2 Personal (AES) instead. (**Will not work as well with legacy devices. 2.4 and 5Ghz signals fluccuate too much. Use WPA2 for non-compatible WPA3 devices.**) WPA2 Personal (AES) is appropriate when you can't use one of the more secure modes. In that case, also choose AES as the encryption or cipher type, if available. (***Most preferred encryption for legacy devices on 2.4 and 5 Ghz.***) Weak security settings to avoid on your router Don't create or join networks that use older, deprecated security protocols. They're no longer secure, they reduce network reliability and performance, and they cause your device to show a security warning: WPA/WPA2 mixed modes WPA Personal WEP, including WEP Open, WEP Shared, WEP Transitional Security Network or Dynamic WEP (WEP with 802.1X) TKIP, including any security setting with TKIP in the name Settings that turn off security, such as None, Open or Unsecured, are also strongly discouraged. Turning off security disables authentication and encryption and allows anyone to join your network, access its shared resources (including printers, computers and smart devices), use your internet connection, and monitor the websites you visit and other data that's transmitted over your network or internet connection. This is a risk even if security is turned off temporarily or for a guest network. Network name (SSID) Set to a single, unique name (case-sensitive) for all bands. The SSID (service set identifier) is the name that your network uses to advertise its presence to other devices. It's the name that nearby users see on their device's list of available Wi-Fi networks. Make sure all routers on your network use the same name for every band they support. If you give your 2.4GHz, 5GHz or 6GHz bands different names, devices may not connect reliably to your network, to all routers on your network or to all available bands of your routers. If your router is providing a Wi-Fi 6E network that isn't using the same name for all bands, Apple devices that support Wi-Fi 6E will identify the network as having limited compatibility. Turn off "Smart Connect" Disable OFDMA/MU-MIMO. Don't enable MLO Network. Most household do not have Wi-Fi 7 devices. Use a name that’s unique to your network. Don't use common names or default names such as linksys, netgear, dlink, wireless or 2wire. Otherwise, devices that join your network will be more likely to encounter other networks that have the same name, and then automatically try to connect to them. Hidden network Set to Disabled. A router can be configured to hide its network name (SSID). Your router may incorrectly use "closed" to mean hidden and "broadcast" to mean not hidden. Hiding the network name doesn't conceal the network from detection or secure it against unauthorised access. And because of how devices search for and connect to Wi-Fi networks, using a hidden network may expose information that can be used to identify you and the hidden networks you use, such as your home network. When connected to a hidden network, your device may display a privacy warning because of this privacy risk. To secure access to your network, use the appropriate security setting instead. MAC address filtering, authentication or access control Set to Disabled. When this feature is enabled, your router can be set up to allow only devices that have specified media access control (MAC) addresses to join the network. You shouldn't rely on this feature to prevent unauthorised access to your network for these reasons: It doesn't prevent network observers from monitoring or intercepting traffic on the network. MAC addresses can easily be copied, spoofed (impersonated) or changed. To help protect user privacy, some Apple devices use a different MAC address for each Wi-Fi network. To secure access to your network, use the appropriate security setting instead. Automatic firmware updates Set to Enabled. If possible, set your router to automatically install software and firmware updates when they become available. These updates can affect the security settings available to you, and they deliver other important improvements to the stability, performance and security of your router. Radio mode Set to All (preferred), or set to Wi-Fi 2 to Wi-Fi 6 or later. Radio mode settings, available separately for 2.4GHz, 5GHz and 6GHz bands, control which versions of the Wi-Fi standard that the router uses for wireless communication. Newer versions offer better performance and support more devices concurrently. It's usually best to enable every mode offered by your router, rather than a subset of those modes. All devices, including older devices, can then connect using the fastest radio mode they support. This also helps reduce interference from nearby legacy networks and devices. Bands Enable all bands supported by your router. A Wi-Fi band is like a road that data can pass down. More bands provide more data capacity and performance for your network. Channel Set to Auto. Each band of your router is divided into multiple, independent communication channels, such as lanes on a road. When channel selection is set to automatic, your router selects the best Wi-Fi channel for you. If your router doesn't support automatic channel selection, choose whichever channel performs best in your network environment. That varies depending on the Wi-Fi interference in your network environment, which can include interference from other routers and devices that are using the same channel. If you have multiple routers, configure each one to use a different channel, especially if they are close to each other. Channel width **Set to 20MHz for the 2.4GHz band** (Very important..!!). Set to Auto or all widths for the 5GHz and 6GHz bands. Channel width specifies how large of a "pipe" is available to transfer data. Wider channels are faster but more susceptible to interference and more likely to interfere with other devices. 20MHz for the 2.4GHz band helps to avoid performance and reliability issues, especially near other Wi-Fi networks and 2.4GHz devices, including Bluetooth devices. Auto or all channel widths for 5GHz and 6GHz bands ensures the best performance and compatibility with all devices. Wireless interference is less of a concern in these bands. DHCP Set to Enabled if your router is the only DHCP server on the network. Dynamic host configuration protocol (DHCP) assigns IP addresses to devices on your network. Each IP address identifies a device on the network and enables it to communicate with other devices on the network and internet. A network device needs an IP address, much like a phone needs a phone number. Your network should have only one DHCP server. If DHCP is enabled on more than one device, such as on both your cable modem and router, address conflicts may prevent some devices from connecting to the internet or using network resources. DHCP lease time Set to 8 hours for home or office networks. Set to 1 hour for hotspots or guest networks. DHCP lease time is the length of time that an IP address assigned to a device is reserved for that device. Wi-Fi routers usually have a limited number of IP addresses they can assign to devices on the network. If that number is depleted, the router can't assign IP addresses to new devices, preventing those devices from communicating with other devices on the network and internet. Reducing DHCP lease time allows the router to efficiently reclaim and reassign old IP addresses that are no longer being used. NAT Set to Enabled if your router is the only device providing NAT on the network. Network address translation (NAT) translates between addresses on the internet and addresses on your network. NAT can be understood by imagining a company's post department, where deliveries to employees at the company's street address are directed to employee offices within the building. Generally, enable NAT only on your router. If NAT is enabled on more than one device, such as on both your cable modem and router, the resulting "double NAT" may cause devices to lose access to certain resources on the network or internet. WMM Set to Enabled. WMM (Wi-Fi multimedia) prioritises network traffic to improve the performance of a variety of network applications, such as video and voice. All routers that support Wi-Fi 4 (802.11n) or later should have WMM enabled by default. Disabling WMM can affect the performance and reliability of devices on the network. DNS server Continue using the default DNS server, or specify a different primary or secondary server. To easily access websites on the internet, devices need a DNS (Domain Name System) server to translate domain names (such as apple.com) into IP addresses. By default, your router uses the DNS server of your internet service provider (ISP). If it's configured to use a different DNS server, your devices will by default use that server while connected to your router's network. If your device warns you that your network is blocking encrypted DNS traffic, you can continue using the configured DNS server, but the names of websites and other servers that your device accesses on the network are unencrypted and therefore could be monitored and recorded by other devices on the network. You can contact your ISP or other DNS provider for more information, but first try these solutions: Make sure your software is up to date and your security setting is configured as recommended. Restart your device. Restart your router. Forget the Wi-Fi network and then rejoin it.

This machine is amazing! Best things about it IMHO.... Wifi 7/802.11be (whichever you wanna call it) with separate regular LAN/guest/IoT networks, the ability to setup individual 2.4/5/6 GHz bands or a blend of the 3, a built in Media Server function for my 8TB NAS with all my movies/shows/music stored on it, state of the art encryption, rock solid stability and future-proof connections in the back. Gimmicky display on the front, BUT it did turn out to be helpful when it had an issue. It was displaying a big EXCLAMATION MARK on the front one day after I noticed there was no internet on PS4. Turned out there was a firmware update that had been downloaded and needed to be manually installed. Beauty was that initially my MediaServer and NAS function weren't working right and I was about to send it back for another when the update was pushed out and now everything works flawless. I was going to leave a crappy review to boot, but after the update 2 days ago, I honestly can't complain. Doesn't feel cheap, and for just under $300, in Nov. 2025 I feel like I got a smokin' deal. I am not a robot or AI. Not an IT know-it-all either, but know enuff to appreciate most of what this machine can do. At the end of the day, that's all that matters.

I have about 90 devices on my network, many of those are connected through Wi-Fi. My old Archer AX11000 worked great for a few years but I started having issues with it dropping the Wi-Fi every other week. After that, I tried another router brand but it wasn't able to handle the load of so many devices. I did some research and bought the Archer AXE300, which is listed to handle 200+ devices. I also bought this router, Archer BE800, to compare with and see if I could "future proof" myself more. This router was only listed to handle 100+ devices but I thought it would work fine; I was wrong. The initial setup was painless and my speed tests were pretty promising. I was getting better, more consistent, connection speeds on my 5 GHz devices (up to 400 Mbps faster in some cases). This was short lived, however, as within 30 minutes after configuring everything, the router rebooted itself. It did this 3 times in a loop and then factory reset itself! I thought maybe the firmware update messed something up so I restored to factory settings, reinstalled the latest firmware, reset settings again, and reconfigured. Just as before, within about 30 minutes, the router rebooted. This time it rebooted twice and then factory reset itself. What was odd is that everything except the LED screen and TP-Link ID settings were reset. At this point, I'm trying to figure out what's going on so I go through the now painful process of setting everything up again and try to observe what might be causing this. From what I could observe, once the router connected more than 75 Wi-Fi devices, it would start the reboot sequence. It wouldn't reset itself to factory settings every time but if I left it long enough then it would eventually. I was really hoping to keep the BE800 and return the AXE300 so that I could have the "latest" but I'm willing to wait another year to give Wi-Fi 7 time to mature. If you search online for the more expensive BE900, you'll find a thread discussing some of the issues with that router, which includes it rebooting itself, so this seems to be a common occurrence with the latest TP-Link Wi-Fi 7 routers. In the meantime, I've had the AXE300 running, along with two OneMesh devices, without any issues. If you want to buy this router then I would recommend searching the official and unofficial forums to see what potential issues you might run into and just bear in mind that you'll be beta testing this for TP-Link. Good luck!

TLDR - The product performs excellent and the Tech Support team is absolutely an all-star group. Out of the box the setup was simple and the instructions were clear. However, after an initial successful setup, there was some communication issues between my router and modem. I called tech support and had a great experience dealing with the representatives. When the issue occurred it was late night and I didn't expect to get through, however I was connected with a representative immediately. Mike helped trouble shoot the issue but was unable to resolve. He was detailed, talked me through troubleshooting step by step, and was thorough. He explained the next steps and schedule a call back from their next level of support that best fit my busy schedule. The next day, at the exact agreed upon time, the next level tech support called. This time it was Anne. Anne, and as Mike was--super knowledgeable, very thorough, picked up right where Mike had left off, and took her time to help resolve the issue. Although we had to escalate to the next tier of support, Anne explained the next steps and what to expect. The timeframe given was 1 business day for a follow up but moments later I received a call back from Michael C. We spent time troubleshooting but still were unable to resolve the issue. The issue was going to be escalated again, and we hung up. After about 30 minutes Michael called me back and asked to try one more thing...and the attempt worked. I appreciated his effort and the fact that he took time after we initially hung up to still resolve the issue--he could have easily let it roll upstream to the next rep, but didn't. That's extremely rare and speaks to the level of professionalism of the TP Tech Support Team. Customer service is hard at times, especially dealing with customers of all levels of technical knowledge, language barriers, and more. Although the issue did take some time to resolve, sometimes that is needed to resolve issues--nothing can be done about that. However, throughout the entire process, the TP-Link Support Team was determined to resolve my issue and made me feel as if it was their own. I appreciate the time and effort of those involved as internet connectivity is crucial in my line of work as I'm sure it is for many others. Based on my experience I would definitely purchase another TP-Link product because I know there is a strong support staff standing by to resolve any issues. That is very valuable to me and worth the price of the router.

A longtime user of ASUS - well the reviews are true, their new wifi6/7 stuff is complete garbage. Brand new router rebooting itself several times a day. So I got this one instead, and it's been up for a week straight - even with playing with settings and whatnot - rock solid. My only grips are: setting up the wifi ssid "names" is a complete undocumented mess. Also, IOT network is a joke. There were instructions somewhere on the internet on how to isolate a lan port, so wired IOT devices would ALSO be isolated - but I can't seem to figure that out yet. So I do really miss the ASUS interface, too bad the hardware has gone to crap. Other than that, yes, this sucker is BIG. The leds are a gimmic, but OK. I wouldn't pay extra just for that feature. We'll see how reliable it is, but so far I am happy with it.

First step is I updated each of the two BE800's firmware. Setup with the phone app was easy. No teachiness really need than the basics in the software walkthrough. Results: I have 2 BE800's set up in a mesh. One on each floor of my house. I can get 1.1Gps (1.3Gbps Comcast line) standing on my deck through several walls & stucco (1.3Gbps inside of my house) where the router is on the other side of the house. In comparison, the Costco Deco 11000, with all 3 in a mesh, only gives me 400-500 Mbps on my deck, with the 3rd node right next to my sliding door. There's a guy on YT that compared the range and speed of the TPLinks (BE, GE lines) and the $650 ginormous "King of Kings" $600+ Asus ROG external antenna router and the BE800 was nearly as good (I got my BE800 on discount for $258/each...VERY happy with their speed and stability.....I just wish the software was deeper for my nerdiness). BTW, there's no "variant" of equipment mix that has allowed me to get consistently above 1Gbps anywhere inside my house aside of 2 BE800's in a mesh. I've tried the Deco 11000 of course, but also 2 BE 550's, and 1 BE550 with a monster GE800. It seems that having the SAME software and EXACTLY SAME(!) equipment offers the best stability and speeds to communicate with each other efficiently in Mesh. The BE800 is larger than the BE550 and thus larger antennas, and I think that it makes a BIG(!) difference. I finally feel I'm getting the internet speed I'm paying for with the two BE800's. So I'm thoroughly pleased. I'll update the review if ANYTHING other than great performance changes. (BTW, I'm not impressed with Mesh tech, per say, when you have 3 or more units. If you're walking around, you're inevitably connected waaaay too long to the weaker node before jumping to the next. That jump will likely result in your VOIP phone call dropping/stalling. It's a PITA. I literally have to turn the device WiFi off and on again so I get the strongest node. In comparison, with the two BE800s and its giant internal antennas, the strong range cuts a huuuge swath and thus no bouncing from node to node...it acts more like an access point for the 2nd floor, without having to manually switch WifI names...which is the whole point of Mesh....the "auto" thing. Also, having 3+ nodes in a chain (i.e. node 3 to 2, 2 to 1 Primary router) causes more lag as the signal speed echoes getting to the main router. A simple test was watching Youtube TV on my deck. When hitting the 10 second backwards button 3 or more times on my Macbook, the stream would lag and wheel starts spinning waaay too long, almost to the point where I have to close the browser. With the 2 BE800's I can quickly hit the backwards button countless times and acts PERFECTLY/SNAPPILY! Again, less "node lag" (and much more speed!) as I have two same model, super powerful units doing the communication! )

I'm at a middle road on this product. I have had it for several months now and the general performance has been exceptional... Except the 2.5ghz band. After five months I started seeing connectivity issues with some devices (new devices) on the 2.5 ghz band. This was not an issue for the other bands. I'm questioning the longevity of this unit. I also wish they would start putting some cooling fans even at low speed would help this cool more efficiently.

Update as Feb. 2026: I am happy to update that BE24000 (Archer BE900) unit has been flawless for about 5 months and very satisfied. I just upped the rating to full 5 stars given my experience with this new unit. I will see how it goes during hot summer although I now have the mentioned laptop cooler pad under the router in case there is any ventilation/cooling issue. Update as of September 2025: TP Tech Support reached out to offer an upgraded model of BE24000 (Archer BE900) unit as a replacement with free RMA of the older unit. Some hiccups in getting the new unit, but at the end I received and set up the new unit (upgraded model, BE24000). Two things I now have different in the setup beside a newer model: 1) I put USB laptop cooling fans under the router (also on the modem in case) as my house gets pretty hot during summer days; 2) I am not attaching the USB Backup Drive used for file shares and Time Machine for a MacBook. It performs great on the first day. Time will tell its stability and reliability, and I will update that. Although it took a while with much interruption in my family's critical internet needs (remote work, school, etc.), I am glad that I may be able to put all those behind. For TP-Link Tech Support's effort and great courtesy, I am bumping up the star rating. Most of all, they changed my mind on the brand. Bought this back in October 2024 when it was almost close to $400 to get WiFi 7 and faster speed with multi-Gig port. Then, after about 8 months of use, all of a sudden it started dropping some wireless devices mostly 2.4G ones first. Was able to access the router management GUI through a PC ethernet connection as well as through Tether mobile app, but soon not accessible. Some 5G and 6G mobile devices still worked fine for a while. 2.4G shows up in the available network list but fails to connect. Tried to connect to 2.4G from my phone (was connected to 5G and working fine), but it also failed. At this point, it will fail to connect if I switch back to 5G WiFi on my phone. Anything that was still connected would work until it was manually disconnected and try to reconnect. At reconnect, it will fail to get IP address: DHCP failure. This is the same for wired PC if I disconnect and reconnect the ethernet, failing to get IP address from the router's DHCP. I have been troubleshooting this from trying various different router settings based on TP-Link community and working with TP-Link Tech Support, but nothing worked. For a while I thought it was some sort of thermal failure as this started on a very hot day and it repeated on hot days, but the other day it did it again when it was quite cool and even with cooling fan that I put underneath it. TP-Link Tech Support escalated this to their Engineering Team, but I got tired of this and am inclined to forget about several hundreds of dollars and hours and days of troubleshooting this piece of junk and throw it into the e-waste dump. Absolutely disappointed and frustrated. I put my old ASUS router, slower, but stable and consistent. I will not buy another TP-Link product.