TP-Link Tri-Band BE19000 WiFi 7 Router (Archer BE800) | 12-Stream 19 Gbps | 2×10G + 4×2.5G Ports | LED Screen, 8 High-Performance Antennas | VPN, Easy Mesh, HomeShield, Private IoT, Free Expert Help

This machine is amazing! Best things about it IMHO.... Wifi 7/802.11be (whichever you wanna call it) with separate regular LAN/guest/IoT networks, the ability to setup individual 2.4/5/6 GHz bands or a blend of the 3, a built in Media Server function for my 8TB NAS with all my movies/shows/music stored on it, state of the art encryption, rock solid stability and future-proof connections in the back. Gimmicky display on the front, BUT it did turn out to be helpful when it had an issue. It was displaying a big EXCLAMATION MARK on the front one day after I noticed there was no internet on PS4. Turned out there was a firmware update that had been downloaded and needed to be manually installed. Beauty was that initially my MediaServer and NAS function weren't working right and I was about to send it back for another when the update was pushed out and now everything works flawless. I was going to leave a crappy review to boot, but after the update 2 days ago, I honestly can't complain. Doesn't feel cheap, and for just under $300, in Nov. 2025 I feel like I got a smokin' deal. I am not a robot or AI. Not an IT know-it-all either, but know enuff to appreciate most of what this machine can do. At the end of the day, that's all that matters.

UPDATE, JUNE 6, 2025: I've had this router for 3 months now with my Spectrum (Cable) Internet service. I currently have the 1000 Mbps-Down/40 Mbps Up speeds. I get consistent speeds on WiFi equal to what I subscribed to the 1 Gig service from Spectrum Internet. Very happy with the router. See attached speed test picture.. Note: Also the security subscriptions on this router are not needed. They are optional enhancements. The router will work without them. The router firmware is up to date........ ****Recommended settings for TP Link Wi-Fi routers and access points, which could potentially take care of all the negative reviews**** For the best security, performance and reliability, these are the recommended settings for any Wi-Fi routers, base stations or access points. The information in this article is primarily for network administrators and others who manage their own network. About Wi-Fi privacy and security warnings If your devices shows a privacy warning or weak-security warning about a Wi-Fi network, such as a warning about a private Wi-Fi address, that network could expose information about your device. If you administer the Wi-Fi network, we recommend you update the settings of your Wi-Fi router to meet or exceed the security standards in this article. If you don't administer the Wi-Fi network, bring these settings to the attention of the network administrator. Router settings To change your router's settings, update its firmware or change the Wi-Fi password, use the configuration web page or app provided by the router's manufacturer. For help, consult the router's documentation, its manufacturer or your network administrator. Before changing settings, back up your router's existing settings in case you need to restore them. Also make sure your router's firmware is up to date, and install the latest software updates for your devices. After changing settings, you may need to forget the network on each device that previously joined the network. The device then uses the router's new settings when rejoining the network. To help ensure your devices can connect securely and reliably to your network, apply these settings consistently to each Wi-Fi router and access point, and to each band of a dual-band, tri-band or other multiband router: Security Network name (SSID) Hidden network MAC address filtering Automatic firmware updates Radio mode Bands Channel Channel width DHCP DHCP lease time NAT WMM DNS server Security Set to WPA3 Personal for better security, or set to WPA2/WPA3 Transitional for compatibility with older devices. The security setting defines the type of authentication and encryption used by your router, and the level of privacy protection for data transmitted over its network. Whichever setting you choose, always set a strong password for joining the network. WPA3 Personal is the newest, most secure protocol currently available for Wi-Fi devices. It works with all devices that support Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax), and some older devices. WPA2/WPA3 Transitional is a mixed mode that uses WPA3 Personal with devices that support that protocol, while allowing older devices to use WPA2 Personal (AES) instead. (**Will not work as well with legacy devices. 2.4 and 5Ghz signals fluccuate too much. Use WPA2 for non-compatible WPA3 devices.**) WPA2 Personal (AES) is appropriate when you can't use one of the more secure modes. In that case, also choose AES as the encryption or cipher type, if available. (***Most preferred encryption for legacy devices on 2.4 and 5 Ghz.***) Weak security settings to avoid on your router Don't create or join networks that use older, deprecated security protocols. They're no longer secure, they reduce network reliability and performance, and they cause your device to show a security warning: WPA/WPA2 mixed modes WPA Personal WEP, including WEP Open, WEP Shared, WEP Transitional Security Network or Dynamic WEP (WEP with 802.1X) TKIP, including any security setting with TKIP in the name Settings that turn off security, such as None, Open or Unsecured, are also strongly discouraged. Turning off security disables authentication and encryption and allows anyone to join your network, access its shared resources (including printers, computers and smart devices), use your internet connection, and monitor the websites you visit and other data that's transmitted over your network or internet connection. This is a risk even if security is turned off temporarily or for a guest network. Network name (SSID) Set to a single, unique name (case-sensitive) for all bands. The SSID (service set identifier) is the name that your network uses to advertise its presence to other devices. It's the name that nearby users see on their device's list of available Wi-Fi networks. Make sure all routers on your network use the same name for every band they support. If you give your 2.4GHz, 5GHz or 6GHz bands different names, devices may not connect reliably to your network, to all routers on your network or to all available bands of your routers. If your router is providing a Wi-Fi 6E network that isn't using the same name for all bands, Apple devices that support Wi-Fi 6E will identify the network as having limited compatibility. Turn off "Smart Connect" Disable OFDMA/MU-MIMO. Don't enable MLO Network. Most household do not have Wi-Fi 7 devices. Use a name that’s unique to your network. Don't use common names or default names such as linksys, netgear, dlink, wireless or 2wire. Otherwise, devices that join your network will be more likely to encounter other networks that have the same name, and then automatically try to connect to them. Hidden network Set to Disabled. A router can be configured to hide its network name (SSID). Your router may incorrectly use "closed" to mean hidden and "broadcast" to mean not hidden. Hiding the network name doesn't conceal the network from detection or secure it against unauthorised access. And because of how devices search for and connect to Wi-Fi networks, using a hidden network may expose information that can be used to identify you and the hidden networks you use, such as your home network. When connected to a hidden network, your device may display a privacy warning because of this privacy risk. To secure access to your network, use the appropriate security setting instead. MAC address filtering, authentication or access control Set to Disabled. When this feature is enabled, your router can be set up to allow only devices that have specified media access control (MAC) addresses to join the network. You shouldn't rely on this feature to prevent unauthorised access to your network for these reasons: It doesn't prevent network observers from monitoring or intercepting traffic on the network. MAC addresses can easily be copied, spoofed (impersonated) or changed. To help protect user privacy, some Apple devices use a different MAC address for each Wi-Fi network. To secure access to your network, use the appropriate security setting instead. Automatic firmware updates Set to Enabled. If possible, set your router to automatically install software and firmware updates when they become available. These updates can affect the security settings available to you, and they deliver other important improvements to the stability, performance and security of your router. Radio mode Set to All (preferred), or set to Wi-Fi 2 to Wi-Fi 6 or later. Radio mode settings, available separately for 2.4GHz, 5GHz and 6GHz bands, control which versions of the Wi-Fi standard that the router uses for wireless communication. Newer versions offer better performance and support more devices concurrently. It's usually best to enable every mode offered by your router, rather than a subset of those modes. All devices, including older devices, can then connect using the fastest radio mode they support. This also helps reduce interference from nearby legacy networks and devices. Bands Enable all bands supported by your router. A Wi-Fi band is like a road that data can pass down. More bands provide more data capacity and performance for your network. Channel Set to Auto. Each band of your router is divided into multiple, independent communication channels, such as lanes on a road. When channel selection is set to automatic, your router selects the best Wi-Fi channel for you. If your router doesn't support automatic channel selection, choose whichever channel performs best in your network environment. That varies depending on the Wi-Fi interference in your network environment, which can include interference from other routers and devices that are using the same channel. If you have multiple routers, configure each one to use a different channel, especially if they are close to each other. Channel width **Set to 20MHz for the 2.4GHz band** (Very important..!!). Set to Auto or all widths for the 5GHz and 6GHz bands. Channel width specifies how large of a "pipe" is available to transfer data. Wider channels are faster but more susceptible to interference and more likely to interfere with other devices. 20MHz for the 2.4GHz band helps to avoid performance and reliability issues, especially near other Wi-Fi networks and 2.4GHz devices, including Bluetooth devices. Auto or all channel widths for 5GHz and 6GHz bands ensures the best performance and compatibility with all devices. Wireless interference is less of a concern in these bands. DHCP Set to Enabled if your router is the only DHCP server on the network. Dynamic host configuration protocol (DHCP) assigns IP addresses to devices on your network. Each IP address identifies a device on the network and enables it to communicate with other devices on the network and internet. A network device needs an IP address, much like a phone needs a phone number. Your network should have only one DHCP server. If DHCP is enabled on more than one device, such as on both your cable modem and router, address conflicts may prevent some devices from connecting to the internet or using network resources. DHCP lease time Set to 8 hours for home or office networks. Set to 1 hour for hotspots or guest networks. DHCP lease time is the length of time that an IP address assigned to a device is reserved for that device. Wi-Fi routers usually have a limited number of IP addresses they can assign to devices on the network. If that number is depleted, the router can't assign IP addresses to new devices, preventing those devices from communicating with other devices on the network and internet. Reducing DHCP lease time allows the router to efficiently reclaim and reassign old IP addresses that are no longer being used. NAT Set to Enabled if your router is the only device providing NAT on the network. Network address translation (NAT) translates between addresses on the internet and addresses on your network. NAT can be understood by imagining a company's post department, where deliveries to employees at the company's street address are directed to employee offices within the building. Generally, enable NAT only on your router. If NAT is enabled on more than one device, such as on both your cable modem and router, the resulting "double NAT" may cause devices to lose access to certain resources on the network or internet. WMM Set to Enabled. WMM (Wi-Fi multimedia) prioritises network traffic to improve the performance of a variety of network applications, such as video and voice. All routers that support Wi-Fi 4 (802.11n) or later should have WMM enabled by default. Disabling WMM can affect the performance and reliability of devices on the network. DNS server Continue using the default DNS server, or specify a different primary or secondary server. To easily access websites on the internet, devices need a DNS (Domain Name System) server to translate domain names (such as apple.com) into IP addresses. By default, your router uses the DNS server of your internet service provider (ISP). If it's configured to use a different DNS server, your devices will by default use that server while connected to your router's network. If your device warns you that your network is blocking encrypted DNS traffic, you can continue using the configured DNS server, but the names of websites and other servers that your device accesses on the network are unencrypted and therefore could be monitored and recorded by other devices on the network. You can contact your ISP or other DNS provider for more information, but first try these solutions: Make sure your software is up to date and your security setting is configured as recommended. Restart your device. Restart your router. Forget the Wi-Fi network and then rejoin it.

i purchased this router because my much older tp-link router was starting to show its age. little mess-ups, here and there, started becoming more frequent. i was totally thrilled when the new router showed up - and i must say, they went the extra mile boxing these modems up. so much so, it was like the final marking blitz to confirm that i had purchased a very upscale product (bravo for that). my wife and i work from home, so i couldn't set it up until our workday was over, but once that happened, i jumped to get it running. setup was very simple. and when it was done, the router ran like a banshee. man was it fast! day two i was still marveling at this unit, and i was really happy, until that nite, when all of a sudden, my downloads started crawling at 3-4 M/s - yup - SO slow... rebooted it, still the same. reset it, still the same. restarted the modem, still the same. so i then i set up the old router again, and sure enough, my download speeds were back to normal. needless to say, i'm sending the new router back, and have already purchased a replacement, so stay tuned for a review of the new one when it comes. by the way - i did NOT purchase a different router from tp-link. i may be done with them now, forever.....

Es una excelente marca para router para transmisión a altísima velocidad, es el mejor hoy en el mercado en Enero del 2024.

اقوي جهاز راوتر جربته الي الان بدون مشاكل

Were using standard Du's Linksys Modem and reaching 600 mbps, now with TP, i can get 950 mbps. Huge speed gain for me However interface is a bit basic, for flagship model i woud expect more functionality

One of the best wifi 7 routers in the market hands down. Amazing performance, fast speed and strong connection.

Por el precio deberia ser QUAD-BAND, pero bueno, supongo una banda 5Ghz soporta bastantes equipos.