EG STARTS Kaby Intel CPU Delid & Relid Compatible LGA 775 1150 1151 Skylake i3 i5 i7 Opener Cap Tool for E3 1230 1231 3770k 4590 4790k 7700k 8600k 8700K

As many people who bought a 8700K have done, I finally decided to delid my 8700K...Yes I was terrified but I have to admit the EG STARTS CPU Delid tool worked brilliantly and took all the worry way. It is extremely well built and was very, very simple to use. I would suggest you go online and look at some YouTube video's as there are many guides on deliding with this type of Delider. The process was very simple and worked within minutes. Using Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut liquid metal TIM, I dropped near on 20 degrees C which made a huge difference to my overclock. My 8700K runs now under full load in Prime95 and AID64 at under 60 degrees C...spectacular to say the least with an overclock to 4.9GHz for 24/7 use and 5GHz when bench testing, completely stable. Anyone looking to delid a Kaby Lake CPU will not go wrong with the EG STARTS Delid tool and it was at a very good price compared to others.

This did a perfect job on my 8086k. Had to apply more pressure than I thought, but straightforward enough for my first delid. Reliding was just as easy.

Very bespoke piece of kit, so I can understand it being expensive for what it is. I was able to delid 2 CPUs with this successfully.

Used this tool to delid an Intel Ivy Bridge 3770K CPU. And again to re-lid the CPU and keep the IHS in place after reapplying silicone on the IHS. I used this in conjunction with: - Thermal Grizzly conductonaut between the CPU die and IHS - Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut between the IHS and CPU heatsink/fan cooler. After doing this process my temps dropped by about 20C. Idle temps are about 35C and 65-70 under load. I was also able to push the CPU overclock from 4Ghz to 4.3Ghz as I was able to increase the voltage a little more with the extra cooling headroom. Very happy!

I tried to cheap out and delid a I7 8700K in a vice with pliers before buying this, HUGE mistake, broke the substrate disabling the PCI lanes. Used this on my 2nd chip and it worked great after sanding back a little plastic that holds the chip in place, the chip would not sit flush as it came (1151) but a few mins sanding it a little bigger and it worked. 4 out of 5 because it did not work out of the box.

Delidded my cpu nice and easy. A must have if you're delidding to save potentially breaking yours

Good product! Did what is meant to. Delided my i7 7700k no problems. A bit pricey but works well. No complaints about it.

Popping my cpu apart were very easy with this tool. Very obvious how to use the tool works and when the cpu popped it were an easy motion to tell it happened.

Just delidded a 4690K as it was getting hot on Core 0 and 1 (90+C) compared to core 2 and 3 (50 C). The metal block should slide freely and butt up against the lid edge of the cpu and ride on top of the PCB. The corner of the cpu with the gold triangle needs to match the corner symbol indicated on the bottom holding block. Take note of this as you install the top half of the holding block. This will prevent shearing off any of the tiny caps inside. Before applying force to remove the lid, take note of the letters through the view port. For me I could only see the "469" of the 4690K. When applying force, the lid should only need to slide two and a half letters to see the text. After removing the lid, clean up the insides and have liquid metal and RTV sealant on hand to complete the process. Allow 24 hours to complete the job. Tip: I used clear fingernail polish to insulate the tiny capacitors on the PCB from any possibility of getting liquid metal on them. Watch Youtube to see how others have done it. A little tiny amount of material is all you need. Suck in the excess if too much comes out on the first squirt. Same goes for the sealant when relidding. I used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut for the liquid metal. The before and after temps are amazing. Before, Temp at load: Core 0 99 Core 1 99 Core 2 58 Core 3 58 After, Temp at load: Core 1 51 Core 2 51 Core 3 50 Core 4 50 I used MX4 and CM Hyper 212+ for the cooler. I am really impressed with the results as this process saved this CPU and evened out the temps of a supposed terribly unlucky cpu. Good stuff. Be patient and take your time.

Delidded my 8700K, applied liquid metal and reapplied the ihs using this tool. Temps dropped dramatically after delid - over 20c overclocked to 5Ghz! It’s manufactured very well. Quality tool. Highly recommended.

Bought this tool as the vice method didn't work for me -- lid wouldn't budge despite strong pressure; didn't want to risk damage. Tool worked fine, lid came off quite easily with little force. Still, I would say this is not a job for the unsavvy as there are things that could potentially go wrong: 1. Ensure the CPU is rotated so the lid is being pushed away from any capacitors under the lid. 2. Ensure the block is pushing against the lid not the PCB -- tricky if you can't see inside the block during delidding. Perhaps the tool should be laid flat during delidding to ensure this? 3. Be careful with the included scraping tool when removing old glue/TIM as you can easily slip and hit the capacitors on a 4790k. For some reason I didn't screw the 3 thumb screws all the way in during delidding, so not sure how that affects it. I thought the thumb screws were to stop the two halves from sliding horizontally, but then I realised it's also supposed to create vertical pressure which I didn't have during my delidding. Someone else said their 4790k was destroyed by this tool so I have no idea if that was the reason. In any case, just spend a few minutes studying the tool and reseating everything until you're absolutely sure what's going to happen when you start pushing the block. Temp results appear successful -- I'm seeing approx 15C decrease, sometimes 20C depending on the test. Setup is CLU > lid > NT-H1 > Gammaxx 400 > NF-F12.

Works great with no issues. Very easy to use

Works exactly like instructions show. No issues at all with delidding a 7700K CPU. Clamped CPU in the tool, turned screw until it contacted the IHS then gave it one turn on the screw and waited a few seconds. Backed it off and turned it again one turn and maybe a little bit more and the IHS popped loose. Applying the IHS back was easy, but the tensioning screw can make the IHS twist ever so slightly when clamping it for regluing, so make note if this and look at the IHS on top of the CPU to make sure it stays 100% straight, but this is not really that much of any issue, as the CPU will still fit in the socket and you probably won’t notice it, just a FYI. I also used JB Weld black silicone, which was ready to go after about 3 hours under a halogen lamp being clamped to make the glue warm. Also, make sure you screw the 3 clamping bolts in all the way. They protrude out the bottom and if you don’t, the CPU is not held in place firmly and you will have issues.